MrObsessive

I'm generally not a street rod kind of guy..........for whatever reason, they don't strike my fancy. But I do like this one! I may just pick one up to get a real closeup look at it..............maybe even build one to have something different on the shelf.

Randy, you mentioned that the wheels are nicely plated........but how do the spokes look? That's the one thing that keeps me from building RC2's version...............the sink marks in the spokes are too annoying for me to fill right now. I'd sooner kitbash the two to make a decent model!

Hey! Where you get that Bro?? I like it!..............Alot!! More details man!

Wow! I love those ads! IIRC, a lot of those pics were part of a website called "Ephemera Now.com", which I think went by way of the Dodo Bird. I was disappointed when you could no longer get it, I thought those pics were long lost........I definitely have this one bookmarked! Thanks for seeking this out for us!

Sigh............. When, Oh when, Oh when, will one of the kit manufacturers commit that car to plastic?? It's a real no brainer as it uses basically the same chassis as the current 'Vette. Should sell quite well too as it's a stunning looking car!

Well, I'm a talk show junkie............but when I get tired of that it may be oldies on MP3 or The CBS Radio Mystery Theatre. I have all 1400 episodes on MP3 CD's-----I can just transfer them to my cell phone or MP3 player and build away!

I grew up with Studes in a way too...... My Uncle on my Dad's side had a '59 Lark that I was involved in an accident in as a kid! Nothing serious...............it was a fender bender in that my Uncle ended up hitting a '50's Desoto turning a corner. It was a coral color (Tahitian Pink?) and it was in very good shape (until the accident) for what was then around a 10 year old car. My Uncle on my Mom's side owned a Stude Hawk (Late '50's early '60's post coupe with fins) that I can remember riding around in as a little one! My Dad had told me a story that the best man at his wedding drove a then two year old '57 Stude Golden Hawk (with the Paxton Supercharger). My Dad was late for his wedding (Imagine that!) and he said he had never seen a car move that fast up to that point. He said it was kinda scary because he never expected his buddy could make the car get out of it's own way and make everything a blur! I lived above what was an old Studebaker dealership for 10 years------my landlord up until 6 years ago was still working on Studes from time to time. Still to this day (I moved in '04) there's a '62 Hawk GT, a '65 Commander, and a '60(?) Lark parked in the garage rotting away. I started (and sorta finished) a '58 Golden Hawk years ago...............The hood got damaged years ago by the last cat I had. (He was notorious for climbing on the darndest things!) That may be one of those rebuilds for next year as I keep seeing it in my display cabinet. If I get time, maybe I can take some pics of it and post here.

That would be great! I'd love to see you try that since my kit may sit another 20 years before I try it!

So Steef, you slid the interior through the firewall? I've never noticed the seam lines between the model and the 1:1. Now I see! How did you put in the glass though? Since the car is a monocoque the 1:1's glass is put on the outside..............I'm getting dizzy trying to figure out how you did the bodywork and interior................ and yet painted it and have a seamless body on a monocoque chassis!

I love it! You never see these built anymore............this is another one of those kits I have that has been sitting for at least 20 years! The wire screen is a nice touch for the "tent". I had a wacky idea for the tent if I ever built mine............use a lady's nylon for the tent and make the top swing up and down like the 1:1 Now if I can get a pair of nylons from the store without embarrassment!............

That car is one of my favorite '50's Porsches! Yours looks nice and clean! I built one of those way back when, but my cat destroyed it years ago, and I never rebuilt it. I've since bought another kit, but like a ton of models I have, it's a "someday" build!

Super nice job Lyle! You did justice to one of Chevy's mid '50's finest................not to mention the first one I've seen built of the new '55!

I remember Larry's '57 very well!! I fact, it was he that inspired me to do super detail as that was one of the first models I had seen when I joined the MAMA club in 1994. It still ranks as the best '57 T-Bird ever IMO! I haven't seen or talked to Larry for quite a while since he moved to Texas...............Do you have an email addy or snail mail address Irv? You can PM me if you do........ If you're going to the CPMCC meeting Saturday------If you find the negative, maybe I can get it from you then. Although I'm not sure I can go because there's possible OT at work and I'd like to work it if I can before Christmastime.

It's time to do the topside of the floor pan now..............I don't really like interior "tubs" especially for models that have opening doors. If you open the door of any 1:1 car, you'll see that there is a slight "step down", in the interior. Even in cars of the mid '50's, which were a lot taller than their later '50's counterparts would be, the floors were not totally flat (save for Studebaker). I figured I'd cut out the driveshaft tunnel on the original interior tub and graft it on the topside of the floorpan and build the interior on the flipside of the chassis floor. 1:1 cars are built this way.........there are no interior tubs (Unless it's a Dune Buggy ) when the car is coming down the assembly line. I took my dremel tool and a cutting wheel to cut away at the driveshaft tunnel on the old interior tub..................please excuse the sepia look of some of the pics! I've had to switch work lights recently as the flourescent light is bothering my eyes now. I've shot some of these under a halogen lamp. After the driveshaft tunnel was put in, I added some sheet plastic to cover up some of the roughness of the floorpan. This shouldn't add to the thickness of the interior as the original interior tub was very thick! When things looked satisfactory to me, I got out the Dynatron and filled in the driveshaft sides to the floorpan and blended them in..............I then to begin to add the toeboard to the firewall area and blended it in too........ The trunk area needed a separation wall, so I added that too here............one discrepancy I can't seem to pinpoint is the added structure in the trunk area itself. I've seen some '55's with it, some without. I added it to make the trunk area a little tidier................. A pic with the body in place..............I'm thinking about adding trunk hinge bracing to the inner fenders to make things a little more realistic.......we'll see...... I have some "trunk material" for the trunk floor in case I can't find the houndstooth like pattern for the floor. In the meantime, I'll want to put some putty around the edges somewhat to close up the gaps. Thanks for lookin'!

I've got the body work just about licked, so it's time do yet more work on the floorpan. Some time ago (before all the moving hassles!) I had did some extensive work on the floorpan.............I wanted to get rid of the molded in exhausts as I'll be making my own down the road. One of the first things I did was cut away the floor itself, grind away at the exhausts, and reattach the floor............ The floor needed some new plastic reattached, so this was done using some plain 'ol .020 sheet plastic. The smaller piece above needed some grinding down likewise........... Here's the whole floorpan with everything put back in...........with all the ribbing that can be added at this point. The spare tire well was deepened somewhat as I want a full spare in at the end of the build. I was going to "flatten" out the trunk floor, but decided to leave it alone as it would of meant all new frame rails and such...........I want this to go as drama free as possible! You can see the putty I used to smooth out where the '56 exhausts were located..........my good 'ol Dynatron Putty-Cote to the rescue! But wait there's more!...........

I had some time off this week so I needed to do some changes to the doors on the '55. I had planned to do roll up windows, but I REALLY want to get this done in a reasonable amount of time............so I'm going to scrub those for this build. I did make window like tracks, but that's more for the look of the vent windows which I redid, as I needed to make the vent windows narrower per the 1:1. Here's some pics of what's been done so far........... I took some H channel Plastruct styrene and added a couple strips to the inside of the channel. This'll make the channel narrower where the window would travel, and more in scale appearing. After the strips had dried sufficiently in the channel using liquid cement, I filed down the H channel and then test fit it into the door to fit into the A pillar of the body so it would fit flush like the 1:1............ Here's a pic of the inside of the door after the rest of the vent window was scratchbuilt......... I needed to add some tiny (.010) round strip to the inside of the vent window for the "glass" to rest on. The pic below shows my attempt at this....... I'll use acetate to make the vent window glass, and I may try to paint the thin strip black to replicate weatherstripping. Here's the drivers and passenger side all done now.............once again the hardest thing about scratchbuilding mirror images is to get them to be symmetrical to each other. In the above pic, I can see a potential problem with the drivers side A pillar .......it's trying to work loose where I had glued the extra height on the original pillar. I'll have to add a tiny bead of super glue to keep that joint from snapping in the middle of everything. Stay tuned..................there's more to come!

Speaking for myself David, I use mostly automotive acrylic enamels/lacquers to get the finish I want. If the color is a solid one (non metallic) then I'll rub out the finish with a polishing kit and wax. If the color is metallic, I'll clear coat the topcoat first............then when fully dry, rub out the clear coat. You don't want to directly rub out metallics before clearcoating as this can "disturb" the metallic flakes leading to a swirly, mottled appearance. One basic rule of thumb when painting is that paint alone doesn't substitute for improper bad prep. In other words, you'll want to get the basics down for a good paint job. Kinda like laying a good foundation for a house lest it come crashing down on you later on! This'll mean getting rid of mold/parting lines, filling in sink marks and or waves in the plastic. Block sanding around door lines to get rid of troughs, and checking the fit of front/rear fascias and bumpers to ensure a good looking model before you paint.

Not bad for a beginner David..............Like Aaron said, you might want to start with something that's not quite so hair pulling! As far as posting pics................here is the link for it. It was a sticky originally, but a small change was made on the board a while back and it got dumped I guess. When you're gluing in clear glass, you may want to consider 5 min. epoxy also. This is good if you're putting in glass that goes in from the inside and needs some strength to keep it from popping out. I've used white glue, but only found it strong enough for "flush" mounted glass where it's resting on something. It's perfect though for headlights, as 5 min. epoxy can yellow over time giving your headlights an "old" appearance.

IIRC............I read that the Carroll Shelby wanted the S to stand for "some more". So it was Goes Like Hell Some more! Here's a site of the GLHS with some engine pics.

Very nice and clean! Back when that car was new, a lot of folks poo-poo'd them because it was basically a hopped up K-car variant. But I've seen those little devils smoke many a new Mustang GT and Camaro, and with a little tweaking run wheel to wheel with new 'Vettes of the day! Remember the GLHS?? That one could be a real SCREAMER!

How did I miss this thread?? I LOVE this era of Indy cars! Before all the wings and multi decals to make the design look "busy". Keep up the great work Ismael! It's turnin' out nice!

Ditto to what Marc and Jonathan said! I've had my Nesco for about 2 years now and have had zero trouble with it. If they don't sell a Nesco one in your area........please make sure whatever one you get has an adjustable temp! This is important especially for resin which doesn't like being heated up any more than 105°. Getting extra trays are a good bet too for those taller models such as trucks and whatnot. I've cut the webbing out of mine with a dremel tool and cutting wheel.

I've got the good 'ol super duper individual multi piece wirespoked one! And yes, it's the 500K-AK version. I bought it off eBay for around $400 or so four years ago...............so I guess I should tackle it someday to get my money's worth!

Really??!! That would be great 'cuz I've got that kit! I just hope it's not $500 like the superdetail set from Scale Motorsports for the 1/12 Porsche.

Awww c'mon Phil, you can do it! It only took a lot of cursing to build mine a little while ago............. Seriously though, if you can get through this one, you can build ANYTHING! One model I have though that I find intimidating, is the 1:8 scale Pocher Mercedes that I've been looking at for the last 4 years! I look at all those myriad of parts and I can see myself in my 80's still trying to finish it!