MrObsessive

Here are a few more................ I did "debling" the wheels somewhat by airbrushing some Testors Metalizer Dullcoat on................their not as flashy as before, but brighter than if I had used Alclad. I did take some pics of the interior, but because the windows are so short in height, it was difficult to focus. In the "On The Workbench" section I have the mostly completed interior done before it was put in. I want to give special thanks to Ismael Gonzalez for giving me the extra Corvette tires! They're the lower profile than what the kit gives you and I think look a bit better for a SRT-8 with the high performance tires. I have seen SRT-8's with the taller tires though. Thanks for lookin'!

I finally finished up this one last night before I went to work! I figured before I go to bed for the day, I'll take some quick pics for all to see. A couple features didn't make the cut, such as the struts ..............I found out a little too late that there was interference due to excess paint in the area I didn't allow for. This made the tailgate not close properly------It still sits up just a hair and not as flush as I'd like, but that's okay because it opens and closes like the 1:1. I didn't bother with the hood struts as it would have been inconsistent to do one but not the other. I also was going to put in seatbelts, but I was so weary of working on this thing I just wanted to get it done! If it were a superdetailed one such as all 4 doors opening, I would have went through the trouble...............but not this time. Here she be!....... Some more to follow!

Hi and welcome! Ahh! Another 1/43 scale builder! Those look pretty good and yes, it can be frustrating when the material is too thick in spots in that scale. A while back I built a 1/43 resin Provence Moulage Simca Abarth that was like that. I build and collect 1/43 from time to time...................some really cool stuff is in that scale that you just can't get in 1/24-1/25. BTW, you'll want to put your full name in your signature, lest Constable Jairus dings you for not doing so. Just go to "My Controls" and under edit signature, you can put your name.

Leif, welcome to the forum! Basically, you'll need to have your pics hosted somewhere on the 'net. Someone a little while ago (a new guy) was having the same trouble.............if you click here there's several posts (including mine) that should help with your trouble. BTW, you write English very well! Hope this helps!

David, I'm not meaning to sound contentious, but I've done the following 4 models shown with hot automotive paint by spraying Future Floor Wax directly on the plastic with no crazing whatsoever. The paints came from a local automotive paint jobber who had warned me how hot the paint would be on model plastic. I told him I had a cure for that ............and I'm sure it would work out as it did. I had tested it out beforehand, so I knew there would be no surprises. Those that know me and have seen my models in person can vouch for this. If you check out my Fotki album (2005 Mustang Buildup) I even demonstrate how this was done. You can see for yourself................. The Revell models in particular are acute with problems because the newer plastic is soft, but I'd recommend it even for older plastic such as my Turbine Car, because there was some bodywork done on that one likewise. I learned this trick from the military guys who've been using Future to seal their plastic for many years now, so they especially would know. Here's a very interesting website that shows all the nice things that can be done with Future.

Lookin' mighty nice!! Hopefully they won't drag out the intro date into forever. This one should be a blockbuster for sure!

Y'all are gonna convince me to stop everything and build one yet! That's a real beauty Lyle! Couldn't get to the meeting today (also not sure about the CPMCC meeting for Nov.) but I'd definitely like to see it in person at the next MAMA meeting!

Len, as I mentioned before, it'll probably be okay to spray it over the primer with no ill effects. I've not done it that way as I've described.............to be on the safe side, take a scrap body and test it out.

So we're getting a '08 Challenger from Lindberg and Revell? That'll be great to see for comparos later.............Since Revell tagged theirs as an '08 and not a concept like Lindberg, I wonder if this is the production version of the car? Thanks for the heads up about the '55 Chevy hardtop.............I'm off to my LHS tomorrow!!

Len, the lacquer primer may cause it to ghost even before you put on the Future because of the hot solvents. Here's a sure fire way to prevent ghosting I learned from Ted "Chopper" Lear........... First sound down the markings and ejector pin marks per usual. Next you want to take some liquid cement (Ambroid or Tenax is best) and brush over where you did your work. You'll notice that where you sanded, the markings come right back again (ghosting). Once where you've brushed on the liquid cement is dry, sand that area again, What you're doing is getting rid of the "memory" of the molded in areas. Since the liquid cement is a hotter solvent (naturally!) than the lacquer primer------once you paint that area, it should not ghost again. I've used Future BTW directly on the bare plastic with no ill effects...........you've seen the Magnum I'm working on (and a few others) and they were all done this way. You could probably spray the Future on the primer with no problem, but I like that extra protection in the beginning to save any hassle down the road. HTH!

That's coming out great Jonathan! Whose paint did you use? That's a nice rich shade of red. Hey I like my Saturn! Although I would have liked the Redline version even better!

I hear ya Jonathan! Please Revell, please make this one as right as rain! A whole bunch of us "Lunatic Fringers" (and beyond) WANT this kit badly! Now about the '57 Black Widow.............I wonder if Revell is going to base this off the '56 bodyshell.........or will they tool up an all new kit? The Del Ray has the correct roof for the Black Widow, but the lower body naturally is totally different. Maybe like they're doing with '55 hardtop, it's probably a modified reissue. I also I hope the 283 has the correct FI manifold..........they were a bit different than what the Corvette used for '57.

Very Nice!! Terrific paint job!

Happy belated Birthday Billy!! Hope you had a good one with lots of Nascar models! I tried to PM you last night before work, but you're a real popular fella..............it bounced 'cuz your PM box is full!

This is GREAT news!! I haven't missed NNL East since '96 so I'm glad that it won't be that far from the original spot! I consider the NNL my highlight of the year! Parking was always a bugaboo with going as I like to leave reeeeealll early to make sure I'm not traipsing all over the area trying to get a parking spot. I definitely want to get to the Friday night get-together...............I had to miss it this past time.

Hello from another Pennsylvanian! I live in Steelton, which is right next to Harrisburg...............some I'm a ways from you! Anyway, it's good to see you jump back into the hobby-----the board's full of interesting tips and such. Nice cars you have there! I like the first gen Probe..............not too many of those around anymore!

I voted real..................besides the water on the windshield, the glass itself is too optically clear for most models that are sold. Unless the guy who built it is really good and used acetate.

Steve that is one fine machine!! In one of my favorite colors too! Yours has given me a inspiration to do one in that color (yes I bought one! ). I may try to build mine in the coming year after I finish my next "neglected project".

Darin, thanks for taking the time to measure a 1:1 and giving us the details! One problem though I see compared to closeup 1:1 photos I have of the car, is the roof crown itself seems off (curves downward to soon). Especially around where the C pillars begin. Now this may be subjective from one pair of eyes to another, but that's how it looks to me. This may not be a big deal to someone who wants a halfway reasonable model of the car................but to me it sticks out like a sore thumb. Another fly in the ointment unfortunately, is when you change over the '70 roof to the '71 lower body.............you can no longer use the kit supplied strobe stripe decals if you want an AAR. They were made for the incorrect fenders. One could maybe scrounge around on the 'bay and find Fred Cady's decals but I can see bidding wars already for those! Maybe Keith Marks makes 'em too...................I dunno. Can't wait to see how you tackle this one Darin!

Hey thanks for the heads up! I was looking at the auction you're talking about. When you contacted eBay, did you forward the emails that he sent you? They may have given him a warning if this is the first instance without notifying you. BTW, I see that you're a newbie, so it's a real good idea to put your real name in your signature area, lest you get pulled over by Sheriff Jairus. You can go to "My Controls" and then "Edit Signature" to do that.

Tamiya acrylics come in something called "Buff" but I can't remember the number right now. Here's a couple pics of my 'Vette interior that I did in this color.......... HTH!

TOM!! Glad to see ya here! You've seen the '55 T-bird I've brought to the meeting long ago? That was molded in that nasty red plastic, but it's now Thunderbird Blue. How'd I do it without the red bleeding through?..................Future Floor Wax! You can brush Future on but you'll need to let it dry thoroughly to avoid brush strokes................I airbrushed mine on and let it sit overnight. I put it directly on the bare plastic. I know of nothing in a spray can that can be a barrier...............maybe someone can chime in that may know. Years ago there was a barrier that the railroad guys used......but you had to be careful how you thinned it lest it etched the plastic also! Here's a pic for those who haven't seen the T-bird...................you'd never know it was molded in that terrible red plastic! BTW, Future is great for sealing the new soft plastic coming from China for those of us that want to use hotter automotive paints..............I've used it on several builds including the Magnum I'm working on. There's been no crazing of the plastic whatsoever! HTH!

Ahhh! Thanks for the heads up! I never took the time to actually test fit the floorpan..............just a quick glance at it when I bought it. I knew the '71 Chrysler lineup used pretty much the same floor stampings and cowls just different wheelbases and overhangs. That's too much work for what may be a basic build for me. I'll stick with your idea of using the AMT Challenger kit's chassis--------I've got one laying around somewhere.

Looking great so far on the body work Mark! I'll be taking notes on how you shorten the chassis, as I want to do sort of the same thing on a 'Cuda build down the road............but maybe using the '71 Charger as a starting point.

Cody, I mostly use an airbrush for painting. In fact, the model I use is a Badger Crescendo 175. I've had it since '93-'94 and haven't had any trouble with it except to replace the needle bearing. I airbrush because this gives me a little more control when it comes to how much paint flow and how fast. Some paint with cans.............and they're very good at it-----it all comes down to preference in what works best for you.