Wagoneer81

This is why I don't build O Gauge or On30... with kits like this available, my head would kersplode! I'd go off the deep end just building a fully equipped and detailed engine shop... Awesome detail and an excellent subject. Well done!

I was thinking this exact thing while watching the first video... So, I leaned two things, here: One; There are no tests or Drivers Ed requirements to be able to drive in Russia. Two, Russia has nothing like the DOT to inspect and keep Commercial Vehicles safe. Notice how many were missing wheels, soon to be missing wheels or had axle shaft sticking into the next lane? I may never complain about Stupid Drivers again...

I'm in AWE! Beautiful combo! I love the subject matter and the photography is second to none! Very well done!!!

Jim B, Yes, that's going to be a rechargeable Maglite on a charging base. It's a bit overscale but looks fine once it's in its place. I plan on mounting it on the rear shelf behind the passenger seat where it'd be in reach of the driver.

I started this several weeks ago and decided to go ahead and share with all... I built the trailer several years ago and finally decided on a load. I started with the C-600 stake bed kit that still contained the C-900 frame rails and 5th wheel parts. I built the tractor pretty much box stock but scratchbuilt the 4" dual (straight) exhaust and the 18" toolboxes with Don Mills slamlocks. I also am fabricating a split back bench seat and am working on some interior details; rechargeable Mag-Lite, briefcase, Indiana road map, etc... The load is 12 AMT miniature model boxes... AMT tractor, AMT trailer and AMT load. Just think, large scale model kits being transported to a Local Hobby Shop near you.... I still need to build the ratchet straps for the load, two per stack... The cab will be two-tone, Testors Colors By Boyd Sunburst with white roof panel and body inset... Here's where I am currently. I hope to have paint on the cab by the end of the week... I'm calling it a C-800 because that's what AMT engraved on the door emblem... I'm going to use a Scale Motorsports Upholstery, American Plaid decal sheet to add some detail to the grey insert on the seat...

I glued the drivers side door open and the passenger side closed on my L-700 flatbed onversion... If you want to get rid of the 'stinkbug stance' on the tractor, add a .040 or thicker leaf to the front springs and remove .040-.080" from the rear, depending on how you want it to set...

In this case, no... ;^) I didn't get the eye shut before the paint hit... It took a visit to the ER and an hour of saline eye wash. After that, it was meds applied directly to the eye and keeping it covered for a week...

Well, after a year, it's getting close. The problem with the time it has taken to build this is that I only work on it when I feel good. As many know, I have several physical issues that affect my energy levels and time I can spend sitting in one spot. We're getting close to being finished. What's left is to equip the radars, main deck railing, four quad-40's and the 20mm Oerlikon Suite. Most of this involves little, fiddly Photo-Etch parts so I've got to be in good form to successfully complete them. I'm building this for someone other than me so, getting it right and not messing it up is the main thing... Final bits of railing... The little radars on the Mk37 gun director are less than 1/4"x3/8" and are made up of 11 pieces of brass and copper... Turrets are finished, superstructure minus radars and small AA guns...

I hope to own this kit, one day. I'd love to see one in RED!

I did one worse than that... I picked up the can, pointed it at the part and shot Garnet Red Metallic straight into my left eye...

Tanks, guys! Nothing really new to report except for having stripped the blue 4300 down and started repairing the frame. I stripped the old chrome parts and started prepping them for Alclad. I found a 36" sleeper in my parts stash for it and am going to build it as a basic owner/operator truck. It's boxed up and put away, right now. I may swap a 3406 Clatterpillar into this one... Any thoughts on that? Everything model related is kind of on hold right now. My GF and I are in the process of moving into a house that we'll be remodeling and buying on contract and you know how that can get in the way of leisure time activities. The good news is that it's three bedroom and I'll have my very own workshop, again!

I'd better start saving NOW!!! I am going to try for a case of each!!! If not, then a half-case of each. Depends on how much I save... I'm glad to see the mockups, thank you Dave for sharing these with us. this is one of the MANY things I love about Moebuis Models! As I have stated before, these are my all-time favorite vehicle, Car, Truck, Chevy, Ford... regardless, my favorite. There have been over a dozen owned by various family members of my family through the years....

I've done quite a bit of casting in the past years. The one thing I recommend, especially if you're just getting started, is a slower setting resin. This will allow you time to properly mix the resin, pour it in the mold and work out any bubbles that need removing, if you're not using a presssure pot or vacuum chamber. You've never reached the heights of frustration until you are pouring a 1/350 ship hull and the resin starts setting up in mid-pour. I lost the pour and around $75.00 worth of resin... I've used Smooth-On and Alumilite both. I recommend Smooth-On. This is just a personal opinion, gained through valuable experience....

The rule with their products is that if you know what the original part looked like, their replacement will look just like it, just in flawless, unpainted resin. Buy with confidence!

I've built several multi-piece body kits, through the years. To me, no more difficult than one-piece. I don't have any problems with them. I don't see the need for the fuss. Just as with other parts of the kit, work slow, use plenty of tape, fit, trim, fit, repeat.... No worries. I have a couple of Heller kits that are multi-piece bodys. I loved building them!

It lives!!! I am glad to say that I survived the winter... With my physical conditions and problems, winter is very hard on my body and now that spring has graced us with her presence, I feel like doing more than reading and sleeping... I'm just very thankful that the man I'm building this for is a very understanding individual... I finished painting the hull, today. I used Floquil engine black and boxcar red, Testors MM dark sea blue and medium grey. Now, paint the screws bronze, touch up the deck, finish the superstructure, build something along the lines of 100+ anti-aircraft guns and finish this beast!

OK, who let Ira get ahold of a knife, again?!? Ira, you are a genious! I'll be watching this one, closely!

One of my favorite Fords, Ron. Very subtle, very nicely done!

Insane, as usual, Tom! Very cool!

I like them. Especially on heavier, vintage vehicles like 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.

As far as the Revell Pete and KW kits, I personally love them! The wheels and tires can be a pain to assemble, sometimes but they're doable. I love them for their price and versatility. I can cut into one, stretch a frame or whatever and not have to worry about boogering a $50-$60 kit. I've built two and have three more in the works... They're both pretty much identical kits except, obviously, for the cab/hood/sleeper. They use the same chassis, running gear and 3406 engine in both kits. Hope this helps!

This, ^^^ I can identify with. I used to bury phone and CATV cable for a living... That job will weed out a poorly made pair of boots in no time, flat! I thought, 'Hmm, CAT boots... These should be near bullet-proof!' I paid close to $120.00 for the pair and they fell apart within 2 months. In comparison, I could get 9 months from a $40.00 pair of Wolverine Marquettes... Anywho... back on topic, I'd also recommend talking to Dave/ Cargostar about a starting place to do your own conversion. I think that'll be your best route. And, I think, (yes, that's gotten me in trouble before) if you build one for yourself and don't try to market it, that 800# yellow gorilla should leave you alone. Here's hoping, anyway!

If you want an insane, super-heavy-duty looking rig, then a $20.00ish Revell 359 Pete or Kenworth W900 kit would be an easy conversion. Being that they're inexpensive kits, you can experiment with them without worrying about messing up an expensive kit. Also, being that the cab/sleeper floor and frame are molded as one piece, the frames don't have any flanges. You'd need to add flanges using some .040x .080 Evergreen strip to make them accurate and while you're doing that, it's easy to cut the frame and splice in some extra length.

Yes, the factory moved the cab up and forward to clear the engine. If you need to, you can add some strip styrene under the door to extend the cab sides down. As for the hood, I've seen guys cut them into three or more pieces, take a section from the middle to shorten it and add styrene strip in to deepen it. What you might do, is if you have a spare body and hood, practice on it. Make some cuts where you think you should and go from there. Also, keep looking back into the 'On the Workbench' area of this truck section. I know I've seen in-progress pictures of someone building a '50ish ford COE. His pictures made the job almost self explanatory... EDIT: Found them... I saved them to my HD, as reference pics. I forget who posted them originally, but it wasn't me. Credit goes to whoever posted the originals... this is not my truck, just some pics to, hopefully, answer what questions you might have... I with we had a pic of the unprimed hood. Get some .040 Evergreen strip, maybe .188 or .25" wide to make the hood taller and remove a section to shorten it. Cut and shim wherever you need to to get the darned thing to fit and look right.... That's mainly what scratchbuilding is... Making it look right...

Myself, between the inept TSA and gorilla wannabe baggage handlers, I think I'd take the train... or rent a car and drive. I sure wouldn't put my prize models into the care or hands of anyone but myself... Just my 0.02... And, best of luck with however you decide to travel! Now, if you must fly, keep them with you, carry them as carry-on and do as others have said, pack and mark them carefully....