Exotics_Builder

Pau! From Googled Hawaiian idioms site: Done! Completed! The End! Pau means finished, ended, through, terminated, completed, all done, over

Get the Crazy Modeler set instead. Far, far better. There's version for street and challenge.

Well, given that you are in Fairfield California, north of SF bay, a great choice would be Silicon Valley Scale Vehicles. Steve Hinson posts here so he can give you more details. There also is a Sacramento club, but I don't know there name. Have you looked in Model Cars Magazine also? Gregg keeps a listing of Model Car Clubs and contacts. HTH

Built this a few years back. Thought I'd share it. Lindberg 61 Impala kit with 409 from AMT 62 Impala along with MCG detail set and MCG air cleaners. Am starting work on a street stock 62 Impala SS Convertible. At my current pace, may be done by year-end.

Whether solder or something else, the technique I've used to straighten out is lay the piece on a flat surface and then use a steel ruler and run it diagonally across the piece applying some pressure. The piece will roll and straighten out. In my case, I use a flat piece of glass for the base and a 6" steel hobby rule that has a knob on it that makes it a little easier to manipulate.

Another option you might consider in lieu of drybrushing is to use a silver sharpie.

I Ditto what Bob said. I had one Tamiya spray that didn't all come off with 91% Alcohol, but ELO got the rest of it.

If you're not looking for working lug nuts, try: Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland, who also sell RB Motion parts; or Walthers Raliroad Supplies http://www.walthers.com/ for Grandt line products ( see their web page at http://www.grandtline.com/ ) or http://www.hiroboy.com/ and look for Calibre35 products HTH

Used them for years. Need to be careful how you use as they may shoot some moisture from the noozle (cool gas and cooling the air) and can cool the body. Great to stir up dust from a shelf model but don't hold too close or you might blow off a small part that is tenuously glued on :roll:

A quick look see I did leads me to believe opening the Fujimi's hood and putting on the Revell Chassis is the likely way to go. But, I haven't done a comprehensive review yet. It looks like trying to get the 575 roof onto the Superamerica body will be a bit of a challenge. Let you know as I research more. Also, I have a Revell Germany 599 GTB hopefully coming this week. Will take photos when it comes in. Gerry

Thanks Bob, Got two sitting in the stash now. Revell seems to do the "sandwiched" disk brakes on a lot of kits. Takes a bit of work to get them out and make them look normal. I'll have to ask the Revell guys at the next LMMCC meeting why they do that.

Options are: Previously mentioned Hummer and Escalade RC2/AMT's Escalade also has a 4WD that can be adapted Also look for the transfer case off the the transmission and drive shft to front differential

Here's what the engine bay of a STS-V looks like: So, I guess it's up to you if you want to make it look similar or just do a curbside. HTH Gerry

If you use Internet Explorer, there is an option for automatic image resizing which allows you to expand the image to full scale on your own.

That could only be D&J in Campbell. Wish I could make it out there Gerry

Some body differences. Major difference is a Fuel injected engine versus weber carbureted. Gerry

I'm going out shortly, but I can photos of the kit I have downstairs later today. I also have the Protar 250 GTO, MFH 250 GTO and Gunze 250 GTO (curbside). Here's a photo of part of my Ferrari stash: Let me know. Gerry

Sorry to here. May he R.I.P. He was a great guy. Somehow, I thought he had passed about 4 years ago. I met him on one trip to the bay area and visited his place along with Dennis Pierce and a couple of SV2 folks. It was mind boggling to walk through there and see the variety. Gerry

One year and only to a new show that it's never been to (within limits).

I voted no mainly for the following reasons: 1) What was mentioned above by Darin 2) Steve’s comment on doing one yourself 3) There’s quite a lot of architectural supply stuff in G scale (scan Walthers Railroad website) that could already be applied Whatever you decide, good luck. John, I may be wrong, but I think SMBC walls and such are foam core board based. Looking at the pictures, they appear as such rather than styrene or resin. His diorama stuff is resin.

I haven’t finished anything recently, but thought I’d post something I did back in 1992. It’s the Fujimi M5: First off, I converted the model to US Specifications including adding side marker lamps and center mounted stop lamp. The interior needed a lot of work to be corrected. Not really noticeable in the photos are the corrections to the dash controls. The seats were also corrected, including adding seat belts (I used clear plastic “stubs†for the shoulder belt and the super glued them once the interior was inserted. It’s impossible to notice unless you look very, very close. I also added swinging armrests which should be on the US car seats. I got the arm rests from an extra Revell of Germany 750il I bought highly discounted from a store that was closing and moving out state (Washington to Florida). Since I had the 750il, I decided to a little more. So here’s the surprise: I chopped off the front end, added and adapted the 750il front frame to the car and then added a Fujimi M635 engine from an extra EM kit I also picked up from the same store. So now, instead of curbside, we have a full detail model. The only thing I’d do differently today is add trim around the sunroof to make it look more realistic. But, that’s for another kit. All told, there was about 200 hours in the conversion and US spec’ing of this kit.

Thanks Bill. The ones I used on the model were from Steven's International. They also had a blue line tire as well. I'm not sure if they're made anymore. American Satco later did a gold line as well. But I went to Satco site and it says out of stock as well. Let me see if I have any extras in my parts box. Gerry

How about a decade old build. Here’s the Revell Chevelle Z-16 built factory stock, with factory colors and gold stripe tires. Engine was detailed with a combination of Model Car Garage PE set and various Detail Master frets. I really enjoyed building this as the Z-16 is quite a unique car and it took a little effort to research it to get things looking right

I'm leaning the same way, Bill and waiting for the RM kit and kitbash the two along with the Z06 block and heads. RIght now, I'm far enough behind on building that the Camaro is not high on my list. On the deck right now are: 1) Tamiya 360 Modena with Lion Roar/AcuStion PE sets. This one will be done as a mild tuner 2) Revell 56 DelRay as a street machine with the SMB Chevy with Model Car Garage PE and R&MofM Turbohydro 3) Fujimi Mini Cooper S (LHD) with custom wheels and some added tuner body cladding. 4) Fujimi EM Ferrari 246 Dino GTS (the original issue) along with S27 Photoetch.