Len Carsner

Here the transmission has been masked off from the engine etc. We found that fogging on various shades of Testors Metalizers helped to get a more varied metallic appearance on this early 50’s Olds three-speed standard transmission exterior finish. Here the wheels have already been primed and painted body color for the Buck Baker NASCAR version. Testors No. 1204 red was chosen as a close match to factory original Chariot Red. If you’re determined to be totally accurate color-wise MCW will be happy to mix a bottle or can for your 50 Olds project. The grease caps were painted steel while the lug nuts got a touch of chrome silver applied by hand with a small brush. We’d also recommend using The Detailer black liquid to bring out some depth and definition to these stamped wheels. To insert the wheels into each tire, simply put the front and back half of each wheel together and carefully slide the combo into the tire opening. Don’t forget to insert the axle pin as described in the kit instructions. In this shot, the rear wheels have been printed and detailed in preparation for assembly with the rear tires. Note the rear drum brakes, which have been fogged with Metalizers. Each brake drum goes over the rear axle pins as shown prior to assembly to the rear axle holes. If it’s a well-engineered and intricately detailed vintage Olds 303 V-8 that you’ve longer for…you time has arrived. You can see the high parts count for this example from the new Revell 50 Olds kit. Time spent detail painting the myriad of parts and pieces will pay dividends when this one is finally assembled and detailed prior to installation. Here the underside and rolling stock of this new Revell 50 Olds kit is coming to life. We’d recommend that you don’t permanently attach the frame to the floorboards until you’ve identified each part or assembly and where it’s located. This is an opportunity to jazz things up a bit by using a variety of metallic and matte finishes to bring out the detail and further definition on your project Olds. Paint was carefully scratched off of each spiral of the four leaf springs so they’ll show up better for these photos. Note the metal exhaust pipe chrome tip similar to those Revell has been including many of their newer kit releases. After perusing the pervious photo, I noticed that some things need a touch-up here and there. One thing I plumb forgot was the gas tank straps. Rather than try to careful hand paint them, I decided to take two strips of Scotch tape and coat them with permanent marker black. Installed and trimmed to fit and the job was done. A variety of metallic, matte and semi gloss paints were used to make the front suspension more visually appealing. Some parts were spray painted while others were done by hand with a brush and bottle paints. Well, we're off to a good start but so far we've just shown you what Bill has been up to, so in a couple of days we'll post some of my progress on the stock street version. I can't let Bill have all the fun, can I? Thanks for looking, we'll see you in a couple of days. Bill Coulter and Len Carsner

The long awaited 1950 Oldsmobile is finally a reality. We waited a long time for a kit of one of the most popular cars of the fifties. Follow along as Bill Coulter and I tackle this thing and see just how well it goes together. If you're interested in building a replica stock version of the new Revell 50 Olds coupe kit might we recommend stopping by autocolorlibrary.com and looking up the Ditzler paint chart for 49-50 Oldsmobiles. We found that Testors European Green from their FS line of enamel bottle paints is pretty much spot-on for the factory primary engine paint color. In the pursuit of brevity and cost savings, I found my light gray automotive primer a good match for the basic interior seats, door panels etc. color. Then I masked off specified areas as shown here for the two-tone treatment and in this case I used Testors Panzer Gray from a spray can. Carefully peeling off the masking shows the two gray paint shades that form the interior treatment for this project. Here we see most of the interior parts/piece for the Revell 50 Olds build. Some touch-up was required to give the interior door panels a bit more definition Testors European Gray was brush painted into the side spear as shown here. BareMetal chrome foil was used for the door hardware. The dashboard was painted Panzer Gray and chrome silver before adding the small and delicate gauge faces etc. Once the crest is applied to the steering wheel center hub, the kit provides a clear bell-shaped piece of clear plastic to mimic the 1/1 treatment. For the early NASCAR version, the backseat was deleted and this bulkhead panel was used and the four-point roll bar installed as shown here. Micro Sol and Micro Set are strongly recommended for getting those tiny water-slide decals into their particular nook or cranny. Don’t laugh…that magnifying glass did come in handy…believe me! I like to group the trees of small parts (and there are plenty in this Revell 50 Olds kit) for gang spraying. While some might prefer detaching each part for this task, our experience says it’s better to know just where every part is until you need it for assembly. Gang spray-painting all the trees of parts getting a single color can really make that job so much easier. If you’re concerned about those pesky little spots where the runner was attached to each part/piece, a black Sharper as shown here makes quick work of that issue. Modern kit technology sure makes painting the chassis a whole lot easier when like this Revell 50 Olds kit, the frame and floorboards are molded separately. Once the frame has been painted matte black, notice there are some floor pan areas that need tending to. BMF was used to mask the front frame off a shown here. Use a paper towel or dinner napkin to protect the remainder of the frame while using Panzer Gray on the exposed areas. Testors Metalizer Stainless Steel spray paint was used on the exhaust pipes. Once the initial application was thoroughly dry, a Post-It was used to mask off the muffler in preparation for a few coats of Aluminum Plate Metalizer. continued.....

Balance of the chassis parts Closeup of the wheel detail Sorry for the poor quality of this image, this shows the chrome tree which includes the 'globe" emblems for the front and rear. The balance of the body markings are on the decal sheet Besides the stock vehicle markings the decal sheet also includes the markings for two race versions. We'll go into more detail about those two race cars in a future installment So there you have it, a quick look at what's in the box of this exciting new release. Stay tuned as we build two versions (street and race) and give you tips and advice for your own projects. Thanks for looking, see you in a couple of days. Bill Coulter - Len Carsner

I know some people may already have this kit in hand, and have posted some images on the web, we're proceeding as we normally do with our preview/review buildup. Let's get started! The new 1950 Olds is certainly a welcome release, and one that has been high on builders request list. Here we see the hood and its hinges, fender skirts, air cleaner assembly, and the floorboard. The chassis is a separate piece. This tree shows the interior panels, visors, steering wheel, and seat back. Closeup of the door panel detail Dash panel and rear seat This tree has parts for the race version, including the roll bar and rear seat replacement panel This tree entails most of the engine components Closeup of one side of the engine and the 3 speed manual transmission Closer look at the valve covers Firewall and radiator closeout panels Continued...

Got home to find this: Looks like BIll Coulter and I are off on another "preview-review" adventure! Check back on Friday for a full breakdown of what's in the box. Next week we'll start posting our buildups and opinions of this exciting new kit! Bill Coulter - Len Carsner

It may be the angle that I used on the model. I've started using a new photo cube but it's a bit smaller than I thought it would be, so I'm having to be creative in my poses to keep the side fabric out of the shot. As for a shot with perspective, try this: Compare this to the rear 3/4 shot of my black car and I think you'll find it compares quite favorably Len C.

"First off all the builds look fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing your work. I'd like to add one name to your list. Dave Burket. Dave is working hand in hand with Frank and Dave M. in making these shorter run kits viable. I will not or can go into the details but there is a good chance some of this may not ahppen with out the entire team.....Dave Burket too. And when everyone gets to see what Moebius and Model King have coming it will blow you away!!! And I want to give thanks to Dave, Dave and Frank for allowing me to help out with these kits. It's a very small part...but to me it means the world. Add to it the things I get to do because of my relanoship with Model King and Moebius...... I am Blessed. All in all these are the 'good old days' like the good old days never were. Thanks Dave " Dave, Thanks so much for the compliments. And color me embarrassed for forgetting Dave Burkett. All of us in the hobby owe him a great deal of gratitude for his efforts over the years. And his work with Moebius is greatly appreciated. And, although I have no knowledge of any projects in the works I would bet my last dollar that if they are anywhere near the level of the Hudson and the C300 they'll blow us all away! Len C.

This is an engine compartment shot of Dave Metzner’s C300 as built from a test shot. Note that everything is there save for the labeling decals. Even so, there's little detailing that would need to be added beyond that that would make major improvements on what you see here. Here we see Len's black C300 from the top and bottom. Built straight from the box, the car is a real beauty that any modeler with average skills can duplicate. We are again fortunate to be able to show you Sean Svendsen’s box art model of the Tim Flock NASCAR Grand National Mercury Outboard’s 55 C300. It is amazing how succulent this baby looks pretty much out-of-the-box. Sean chose Testors Wimbledon White and the kit decals really bring this one to life. The off-white interior surfaces on Sean’s 55 C300 work well with the spartan appointments of an early NASCAR stocker. A four-point roll cage, and aircraft-style seat belts were pretty much the only safety features on these early war wagons. Don’t think your eyes are playing a trick on you. Yes…the straight pipes do disappear just ahead of the rear axle. Truth is, those straight pipes go up and over the rear axle, through the trunk and out through two openings in the rear facial panel just below the deck lid and above the rear bumper on both sides. Kiekhaefer engineers found out earlier on that hot exhaust directed straight out the back of the race car would quickly cause pursuing cars to overheat, there by forcing other competitors to lay back from these formidable Mopars. This is what you need to be looking for soon from you local hobby shops or on-line sources. This is the box art layout for the new Moebius 1955 Chrysler C300 1/25th scale plastic model kit. Absolutely, for sure..coming to a retailer near you very soon! Model King will soon be in action again featuring a Tim Flock NASCAR Grand National version of the new Moebius 55 C300. Sean Svendsen creates another classic box art that really captures the raw bare-knuckled excitement that was major league stock car racing in the mid-1950s. So there you have it - another solid home run from Moebius. Combined with the previously released Lonestar and Hudson Hornet kits we have three models that just a few years ago you would have been called a dreamer to imagine ever seeing these subjects in plastic. With great subjects like this you have to wonder what comes next from Moebius. And while they’ve been reluctant to talk about future products whatever it may be, we’re sure it will be another winner. We’d like to thank all of those who made this project possible: Dave Metzner and Frank Winspur of Moebius - two guys who are serious about models and are a blast to talk with. Sean Svendsen - whether it’s your artwork or models, we are in awe of your talent. Gregg H. and Harry P. - for allowing us space on the forum (and for putting up with us...) 
 And to all of you out there who read, view, or comment on these build projects. Thank you, one and all Bill Coulter and Len Carsner

Here we have three views of the finished Tango Red Moebius 1955 Chrysler C300 on a white background. From just about any view this looks to us to be an extremely accurate interpretation of the first Chrysler letter cars classic yet brutish lines. Here we have three different views of the new Moebius 1955 C300 model on a gray background. Moebius has created something that from our view is the best rendition of this icon car’s compound surfaces to date. From the gangster-style WSWs, to the Kelsey-Hayes wires, to the delicate scripts to the pose-able front wheels, the final built model is nothing short of stunning. Here are three views of Dave Metzner’s Platinum White 55 C300. Dave chose Testors Wimbledon White as a good match for the original factory paint color. Whether build straight from the box or treated to some additional detailing, this new Moebius 55 Chrysler C300 is something long overdue for Mopar enthusiast and car modelers in general. When this kit winds up in your hands, note that this is the same model Metzner built for the instruction sheet.

Authentic factory Tango Red paint can be obtained from Model Car World for this project. Or, another choice would be this commercial enamel spray paint I found at a local hardware story in their paint section. I believe this is called Fire Red. After applying Plasti-Kote T-235 primer and a thorough wet sanding, multiple coats were methodically applied to the C300 body and hood. Be sure and keep track of how many passes you’ve made on the body and repeat that on the hood to ensure the paint job on both will match. Enough said. Commercial enamel takes a bit longer to dry and cure thoroughly than automotive lacquers but much faster than model paints. A careful and thorough wet sanding with fine grit papers was followed up with numerous applications of white polish. Since this body wasn’t getting a myriad of waterside decals, a few applications of Pledge removed any debris, smudges and fingerprints and really brought the shine up. We recommend using an old toothbrush to remove whatever excess polish has worked its way into door lines and crevasses. There were only three factory colors for the 1955 C300. Dave Metzner did his in white, Bill chose red, and Len did the black car. The car received two coats of automotive primer, followed by four coats of color and two coats of clear. here we see the body as it awaits its appointment with a micro-mesh kit and polish. Foiling the C300 body’s bright work isn’t extensive but will require your full cooperation to insure that each piece of Bare Metal is fashioned correctly and trimmed properly. Once the Bare Metal application is finished, a final round of polish and Pledge wax is in order as shown here. This time the entire body surface gets the treatment. In some cases, carefully cleaning the body after Bare Metal Chrome has been applied with Fantastik liquid cleaner will ensure removal of all smudges and residue. The foiled black car has its "jewelry" installed and sits ready for final assembly Testors Aircraft Interior Black bottle paint makes quick work of the under hood fender panels along with the firewall details as shown here. A wide/broad brush with careful and well-placed strokes will allow the AIB to cover well. This paint dries quickly and levels out nicely. It may not appear that way but there’s a lot going on in this picture. First the headliner was brushed-painted with Testors Tan including the sun visors. Then the interior lights inside both C pillars were painted. Once that dried, the front, rear and vent window glass was test fit and eventually tacked in place with blue painters tape as shown here. Next, white glue was applied along and around the edges of each window where it aligns with the window openings. While waiting for things to dry there, the inside rearview mirror was carefully installed. Here the inside surfaces of the grill bars was treated to a few coats of Testors Aluminum carefully applied by hand with a small diameter brush. Checking out reference photos of a full-size C300 to confirm details like this is recommended. The cotton swap is to remove any excess paint. Moebius covers all the rolling stock bases as offered by Chrysler for the C300 in 1955. Here we contrast the Kelsey-Hayes wire wheels to the stock C300 wheel covers. The choice is yours of course. continued...

There is an excellent collection of waterslide markings on the C300 decal sheet including two sets of license plates and a full compliment of dash gauge faces, radio dial, analogue clock face and Chrysler script on the far right of the dashboard. We recommend the use of Microscale Micro Sol and Micro Set. Set helps the decals to stay in place while Sol helps soften the decal to better adjust to different surface contours. Here are two elevated views of the finished interior for Dave’s Platinum White C300. Dave chose Testors Radome Yellow with a Yellow Ochre Artist Oils wash to emphasize the relief in the natural leather interior upholstery surfaces. Whether your final choice of hubcaps or wire wheels, The Detailer black wash really brings out the recessed details of either one by simply applying generous amounts with a small diameter brush as shown here. Note the wheel backs, having been painted matte black, waiting for further detailing. Here we have one of the finished KH wire wheels mounted in place. Pictures don’t do them justice - they're simply gorgeous! Drum brakes were state-of-the-art technology for mid-50’s big American Iron. Moebius has molded that detail on the backside of the inside wheels backs. Once the matte black has dried thoroughly, a mixture of gunmetal and aluminum was used to highlight the brake drum detail. The iconic Chrysler 331 Hemi V-8 as depicted in the new Moebius 55 C300 is one of the most elaborate we’ve seen in a plastic kit. Here’s a look at the extensive parts count showing that realistic paint detailing will require a bit of planning. The use of various metallic paint shades (including Testors Metalizers), matte black, gold and a touch of orange for the oil filter go a long way in creating a very realistic looking 1/25th scale Chrysler Hemi engine. Here we see the box stock engine of Lens car installed in the chassis, waiting for the body. Here we take a moment to show the array of intricate and well-engineered frame, floorboards, front and rear suspension and driveline part from the Moebius 55C300. Careful painting of individual parts (as well documented in the kit instructions) will yield a very accurate chassis. Preparation for primer and painting on our C300 body and hood required a minimum of effort. There was minor attention required for mold lines on the front and rear fenders and above the body C pillars on either side. Using the hand tools shown along with 600 grit wet/dry automotive sandpaper make for pretty quick work. continued...

There was also a small tab-like point on the roof rail moldings that had to be addressed. Nothing serious, and nothing else to report. There’s scientific proof we each perceive color slightly different. Len, Dave, Sean and I each took a shot at mixing our own version of natural leather for the C300 interior. I settled on a blend of Testors Tan and Flat White. Once mixed to a ratio that satisfied my eye, the mixture, was thinned by three to one in preparation for airbrushing the seats, dash and interior panels. Interior parts were taped to a piece of card stock, primed and then spray painted with the light tan paint mixture. After the light tan paint was completely dry, parts needing to be painted matte black (including the VC spark plug covers) were masked with Bare Metal foil and painters tape as shown here. When the paint was dry, and the masking removed, interior parts looked like this. At this point, the basic interior parts are painted and ready for further detailing including the steering wheel and column. To give the natural leather look a bit more definition, The Detailer brown liquid was thinned slightly and applied directly onto the contoured surfaces of the front and rear seat cushions as shown here using an O size brush. Len chose a different route, using Testors Ivory over coated with Dull-coat, then Detailer Rust was lightly brushed over the seating surfaces. 7- The kit turn signal stalk and knob are way over sized Note here a comparison of the kit turn signal lever and knob and one modified to a more accurate size. Hand work with a hobby knife and jewelers file etc. made that task easy. Work slowly and with care not to break or damage these delicate parts in the process. Here the brake pedal and Powerflite AT selector have been painted and attached in place on and under the dashboard. The instrument cluster panel trim details have benefited from the application of Bare Metal Chrome foil, gauge surrounds were painted with Chrome bottle paint and instrument face decals applied in their proper locations. The steering wheel and column have been paint detailed. That’s the accelerator pedal in the foreground still attached to the sprue. continued...

Once again Bill and I are privileged to be able to give a sneak preview of what's sure to be the next big "must have" kit - the Moebius 1955 Chrysler C300. For what I am sure seems like forever the forums have been buzzing about this kit and when will it be available. Well, your wait is nearly over. What we are presenting here is our take on the latest all-new Moebius tool. We'll give you our observations and opinions, along with some advice and tips. And hopefully get your adrenaline pumping! One note before we start - what we are building are pre-production kits - more than test shots but not quite production ready. There may be some fine details that change between what we present here and what you get when you open the box, however what we present here is about as close to final as you can get without being an actual factory package. Also, we're not going to run a full set of pictures of the box contents. We're hitting the highlights and diving straight into the build. Now, with that being said, lets get into it! Here's your rolling stock - Beautiful wide whites with your choice of either stock wheel covers or the optional Kelsey Hayes wire wheels. The body has all of the right lines and curves in all of the right places. As with the Hudson Hornet kit the floor and chassis are separate items. The interior builds up in pieces on this platform. Yeah, it's got a Hemi! These four shots show the main engine components. Cleanup posed no extraordinary problems, just common sense and a little elbow grease. This mold line, and a similar one on the lower rear window molding, need careful work to clean them up without obliterating the molding. Again, these are pre-production pieces and this should not be an issue with regular production parts. Continued....

Love to have a stock body 1976 Laguna, I could replicate the (ignored for too long) one I have in my garage.

<<<<<<<<<< He's right here!

I'm lovin' all of the projects here in "The Hornets Nest", I'd like to play along too! I didn't get mine done in time to show it with Bills during our build up set, so with the good Doctors permission: The inspiration: My version: Kinda plain, nothing fancy, just the way I like them! Len Carsner

We're on the same page on that one, my friend. LC

Don't understand this comment, explain please. LC

Earlier we said this Moebius 1953 Hudson Hornet coupe kit is only the beginning…and how! Again, Sean Svendson shares his box art and first build of the new Model King release of the Tim Flock NASCAR Grand National championship 52 Hornet coupe. We also have it on good authority that Moebius isn’t quite finished just yet with Hudson Hornets. Patience brother…patience! You will not miss seeing this striking artwork on the shelves of your local hobby shop or model kit retailer. Sean in one image has captured the raw and gutsy action from back in the day. We understand that Dave Curry developed the waterslide decals for this Tim Flock 52 Hornet. Sean says he custom-mixed from model paints to match the factory Hornet colors of Boston Ivory (top) and Southern Blue (lower body). Everything needed to replica a period-correct NASCAR Hudson Hornet is in the Moebius kit box. If you’d like to see more of Sean’s Hudson Hornet modes you can do so by visiting his website at: http://homepage.mac.com/ssven5/Sites/Svensworldofwheels/images/worldofwheels.html Final comments There is little to fault to find with this new Moebius 1953 Hudson Hornet 1/25 scale plastic kit. One thing might be…it’s been nearly 62 years. What took ‘em so long? We would point out that this is a well-engineered and rendered kit and as such wouldn’t be something we’d recommend for beginners or as the subject of a first build. Pros: Great nostalgic box art Great four-color instruction sheet Great paint colors chart High-level detail/accuracy Very good fit and alignment Individually bagged components, tires, decal sheet, clear parts, etc. Tampo-printed WSW tires Separate floor pan/unibody sub-frame Cons: Twin-H-Power air cleaner decals (no white background) Some enlargement of mounting hole diameters necessary Cannot close hood with hinges and braces installed Things we might like to have seen: Separate door handles Separate bumper guards Side door glass Two hoods (one with hardware-one without) We'd like to thank Gregg for allowing us a place to share this with you, and to everyone at Moebius Models for their co-operation with this project. Watch for a more in-depth build and review coming soon! Thanks to all, Bill, Sean, and Len

As is often the case, real life can get in the way of our hobby life. Such is the case with Lens car. While it was not ready for "prime time" at the time this was posted it will be finished soon. Watch for it to be posted at a later date. We are very pleased to include Sean Svendson’s box art model in our internet presentation. Sean had the distinction of building the very first Moebius Hudson Hornet as seen here. According to Sean, “I painted mine to match a set of factory colors from '53. The blue was called "Bombay Blue" and was custom mixed using Tamiya acrylics. The top was matched to a factory ivory color and I used a Testors lacquer spray called Ford "Phoenician Yellow." This shot of the engine compartment was taken of Sean Svendson’s Hornet just before all the engine and under hood factory decals were applied in their proper locations as noted in the instructions. continued....

Now is a good time for a quick test-fit. I'm happy at this point with panel alignment, how the interior snuggles up inside the body and the initial stance. Once the thoroughly dry exterior has been rubbed and polished, BMF was applied far and wide. With the amount of bright work on this 50’s chrome cruiser, take you time, be patient and don’t be too proud to repeat the process until you get the look you’re after. Once you done, I recommend using Fantastic to remove and grim and follow that up with a few generous coats of Pledge household wax. Don’t forget to paint the headliner even though it’s not that visible on the finished model. Any light to medium color that works well with your interior color choice will work. Remember to do this chore before inserting the window glass. continued.... Beauty shots Final assembly went pretty much by the book as they say. Take you time. Make sure you have all the interior and driveline chores buttoned up before setting the finished body down over the interior/chassis assembly. Look closely at the left rear corner of the Hornet body. Moebius added a nice touch by engineering the gas filler door as a separate piece. This was necessary for another upcoming Hornet release and it allows the door to be displayed in the partially open position as shown here. Displayed hood up or hood down, we think the Moebius 1953 Hudson Hornet coupe captures the grace, style, spirit and overall looks of this iconic automobile. continued....

Here we see the tasteful two-tone interior from Sean Svendson's box art Hornet build. Note that Sean has picked up on the interior two tone colors to create a theme. Len chose burgundy with gray inserts for his interior which mimics the exterior colors. Looking for something over-the-counter that somewhat represented the factory Surf Green color, Testors Fifties Aqua was a close match. There's a reason the one spray can has a distorted label. I warm all spray cans in hot water before spraying each model. While you're at it why not line up all the parts getting a common color and shoot them at the same time? And don't forget the gas filler flap. Here the body's been masked and a second color applies to the top. Using Testors Light Yellow, I was shooting for something again over-the-counter resembling Honey Cream another Hudson factory color. BMF was applied to the wide/tall rocker molding on both side. It's a combination of bright chrome and brushed aluminum. To get that brushed look, I applied Polly S flat clear bottle paint with a brush. Any excess is easily removed by simply wiping it away before it's completely dry. continued....

The instructions state to lay the exhaust and driveshaft into the chassis before installing the crossmember. This close up shows how the drive shaft and exhaust are "captured" by that cross member. If you install the crossmember first you'll have quite a chore snaking them though it. The instruction sheet info identifies a number of interior colors and treatments. In this case a light/dark leather look was selected. A base coat of Testors Leather was first applied to all the interior pieces as shown here, Once thoroughly dry, a combination of BMF and painter’s tape was used to mask for the second color. Once Testors Light Tan was applied to the exposed areas after masking off, additional detail painting was done and BMF was applied to the interior bright work as shown here. Here, interior decals such as dashboard detail and center steering wheel crest were applied before the dash, seats and side door panels were positioned in place as shown here. At this point Bill's interior is complete. continued....

The Build: The legendary Hornet Twin-H-Power 308 cid inline six engine built out-of-the-box is impressive but…it just begs for some additional attention to detail. Shown here is the driver’s side view. From the passenger’s side view of the THP 308 Hornet engine we can clearly see the level of detail including the dual carbs, intake/exhaust manifolds, the fuel pump and the manifold to tail pipe connector. Here the unibody sub-frame components have been assembled and painted semi-gloss black while the floor pan was coated with Testors Panzer Gray. There has been some discussion that the rear axle has locator pins to fasten it directly to the rear sub-frame rails. Once the assembly and painting has been accomplished, whatever the issue was is difficult to see. The 308 engine is taking shape here and the toothpick inserted in the rear transmission shaft was left in place to avoid handling mishaps. Here we see Len's partially completed chassis. continued...

Display of kit parts as bagged Every part and piece of the new Moebius 53 Hornet kit is presented in sealed clear plastic bags, including the windows, chrome and even the decal sheet. First up, are the two-door coupe body shell and the floor pan. Here you we see the sub-frame portion of the unibody chassis, full engine and under hood accessory parts/pieces and suspension, interior accessories including a separate gas filler door. In this bagged set we find the exhaust system, more of the basic platform interior parts and additional driveline and pieces down to the rear shocks, rear axle, dashboard and the hood , etc. Next up is the chrome tree with a generous amount of essential bright work for a classic 50’s land cruiser. Period correct white side wall tires, a rear metal axle and the extensive waterslide decal sheet features everything from the gauge faces to the Hudson emblem prominently centered in the top grill bar. continued....