LDO

I have one or two of these. Do you need more info that provided by the links above?

It's not the only Heller pre-war car with a body split down the middle. They also did a Mercedes 500 or 540 like that. Maybe others.

Something else I have heard of but have not tried: carving a master from Corian or similar solid-surface counterop material. I heard about a guy using a CNC mill to make a multi piece buck for a '50s Maserati race car, then vacuum forming over those bucks. You may not have a CNC, but good old power tools and files work just fine. You can find it on Craigslist. I have become somewhat of a Corian hoarder. I just can't get enough of it. I probably have 3 kitchens worth.

When I tried that, I was stretch-forming; just heating up the plastic, holding it with leather gloves, and stretching it over a canopy master. There were no problems, but I think it would be a good idea to use thicker plastic, like .020" or .030".

I haven't done any modeling in ages. It's time to get back to the bench. I have a project that is just beginning. My goal is to stick with this one project until it's finished; to not get distracted with anything else.. The 1920 pattern Roll-Royce armored car. The September 1989 Fine Scale Modeler has an article on scratch building a 1/24 body and using the Heller/Airfix Blower Bentley as a chassis donor. I started one like that a longtime ago, but went with 1/35 and the project stalled due to lack of wheels and tires. This time I have a donor kit...but it is the 1/12 Blower Bentley. I got a great deal on a sealed kit off Craigslist. I've only just started. All I have done so far is begin work on the turret. In 1/12 scale, it is about 4.380" diameter. I used a PVC pipe coupling as a form to wrap sheet plastic around and laminate several layers. The PVC fitting had to be cleaned up first. It is slightly bulged at the top and bottom. It took about 2 hours with big files to make it nice and straight-walled. Right now I have a simple styrene ring. I was thinking of cutting the beveled sides on a Sherline mill with a tilting angle table. The rest of the body is mostly flat panels.

Hard to go wrong with Ambush paint scheme. I think a cool "what-if?" model would be a late war tank done a fictional winter ambush scheme. White and shades of gray with tiny white dots to simulate blowing snow. LOTS of different ways to do Zimmerit. There are purpose-built tools for pressing it into putty or softened plastic. (Soften with a solvent glue).

Nice work. If I can make one constructive comment, I'd like to say that rusted tank tracks are sort of an old wive's tale. When they are out maneuvering, dirt and mud run across them with some force and clean off rust. Those areas should be bare metal. I was an M1A1 tanker from 1996-200 in Germany and 2000-2005 in Texas National Guard.

I signed up before it was cool.

I graduated in 1988. I recently slipped and fell in the shower for the first time ever. Nearly got a can of shaving cream where it does not belong. Went out and bought a non-slip mat. Gettin' older.

Thanks. I forgot about that. Nice looking model car.

Where can we see it? I didn't see it on his website or ebay.

No interest here. I hope they don't make a 4 door. It would be a giant flop and could even prevent that company from making something cool, like a '29 Ford on Deuce rails.

If what you ordered doesn't work out for you, I can send a few pieces of Renshape scrap.

It would be cool to build one big enough to drive. Instead of interchangeable nuclear power packs, have interchangeable battery packs. 1950s Atomic dreaming with an electric car recharged by solar panels.

It's an Austin A35, and from what I've read, it's pretty accurate. It's a model of a movie prop, so it has some weird stuff like molded in dents and "rust" spots. Certainly unique. Also 1/12 scale.

Stopped at a new Hobbytown USA today. They had a paint rack for Model Master Lacquers. The top shelf had labels for Glitter paint. Big flakes like on bass boats and '70s custom cars. There was no paint, though. The guy at the shop didn't know anything about it. The labels showed silver, gold, and red flakes, plus clear. Has anyone here used it? I think it would be great for wild 1970s-style paint jobs, especially on bigger scales. I'm thinking of the big Dodge van that Tamiya offered as an r/c monster truck called "Vanessa's Lunchbox". The body was styrene, so it would be easy to work on. I think it was 1/12 scale.

I'm not a fan of the "starter" machine tool. A poor-quality tool with sloppy tolerances will result in sloppy parts. It will teach you bad habits that you will need to "unlearn" when you get a better machine. Start with the better machine. Make better parts. Don't waste time and money on a tool that you plan to outgrow. When it's time to sell, you will lose money on it. Losing proposition all the way around.

Eddie Murphy mentioned an '82 Datsun. In addition to saying "Door is ajar", it also said "Say, man- you left your lights on" and "Somebody stole yo battry"

What scale is it? If you need any parts from an old Tamiya 1/6 Harley, let me know. I have one that is partially assembled.

For $100, you can get a 1/150 scale (16 inches long) Disney Nautilus. It's resin and white metal, and the hull is solid resin, so no interior detail. http://www.rc-submarine.com/product-page/3a9ee0e4-dbb4-3f96-f2e5-084dd91b684c For $396, you can get one in 1/77 scale (31 inches long). This one has a hollow hull that can be detailed or made remote control. There is a lighting kit made for it. Not cheap, but we only live once. Everybody has their Grail kit. http://www.rc-submarine.com/product-page/a5952b51-0edc-b170-4f94-648d4a9dec86 There's another company that makes a couple of different Seaview subs. Of course they offer the two different window configurations, but they offer a "Concept II", which is their idea of a second generation Seaview, much more streamlined...and looks pretty good. It's 58 inches long.

Nice! Love that pickup. The reason it can't be a 2 in 1 is that there is NOTHING stock on it. That would be 2 complete kits in one box.

There are a couple of lighting kits available for this model. One from the US requires assembly; builder needs to know how to solder on a circuit board. There's one from England that I believe is already put together. It also turns on several different lights in sequence, then turns them off in reverse sequence. Para Grafix has an aftermarket photetch set which includes structural beams and ceiling grates for the interior. They instruct the builder to replace all grates if using a lighting kit. The Disney version is available in close to the same scale and also 1/77 (31 inches long) from an RC sub place. The 31" long version is $350 and has aftermarket lighting available. Another rc place has one that is 66 inches long. It would be really cool to superdetail that one. Having said all of that, neither is anything like the description in the book. That sub is describes as cigar-shaped, 70 meters long and 8 meters in diameter. A few other details are mentioned throughout the book. Oh, hey- nice job on the model. That's a really striking display I wonder...what kind of paint would be safe for something going in an aquarium? Put that squid in there and scare the heck out of the fish.

Indeed. I made 2 identical brass gun barrels for a friend's armor projects. They were made from brass stems out of faucets. I'm a plumber and I keep any used brass parts that could be useful for machining. This is his T34/100

I think a Sherline would be the best way to go. LOTS of tooling and accessories available from the factory plus aftermarket support as well. It's a great value for American-made machinery: I don't know of any websites dedicated to getting rid of slop in a Sherline, unlike some Asian tools. Check Craigslist as well. You can get a free cell phone app called Craigslist Pro and have several cities programmed in to make searching faster.

I'll bet Ian found his answer about five years ago.