LDO

Nice work.

My alter ego is from one of the funniest movies ever made. Been using it for a while. Had to add a disclaimer when someone got upset about me not using my real name...he apparently forgot how to read.

If the coupe is OK and price is an issue, why go with resin at all? Fujimi makes a fairly new 917K.

If you want to make it yourself rather than use a kit piece, and if you don't have a lathe, I'd recommend making one from plastic with a drill. Get some Evergreen plastic tube that's the right diameter. Get a drill big enough to hold on to the plastic. Put the drill in a bench vise to hold it steady. Get some Superfine White Milliput epoxy putty. Mix up a little and put a small blob on the end of the plastic tube. Chuck it up in the drill and have a buddy hold the trigger at a slow speed while you shape the end with wet fingers. DO NOT put your wet fingers on the trigger. Get it close to the shape you need then let it dry for at least 24 hours. After that, shape it in the drill with sandpaper. Do the same for the other end.

A real 351Windsor block. The plan is to take it to a machine shop for cleanup and clearance for a stroker crank. From what I've been reading, 408c.i. would be as big as it should get for a production block. A 427 would be great, but many say that piston side loads are too great for a daily driver. What does this have to do with models? I'm going to photograph and measure it so I can make a detailed 1/8 scale Windsor. Just the thing for a Big Deuce or Big T.

I have a Garmin 205W. It sometimes tells me to make turns that just make no sense. I'm a plumber and I drive all over Central Texas (mostly Austin). I've become better at navigating from memory. Most of the time I drive to the area of town I need then let GPS guide me to the house. I just wait until I'm in the right area to punch the "Go" button, that way I don't have to listen to it tell me to make detours or u-turns that make no sense. These are minor complaints, though. The crazy turns don't happen that often. It's still a great tool, and faster for me than a Mapsco. One extremely minor annoyance is that it sometimes tells me to stop several houses away from my actual destination. Also not a big deal; I just need to read the house numbers.

BUT I DROVE A SLOT CAR TO HIGH SCHOOL. I'D BUY A CASE OF 'EM. REVELL WILL GO OUT OF BUSINESS BY IGNORING THIS SEGMENT OF THE MARKET. oh, wait. wrong argument.

This one is made by A2Z CNC. I bought mine from Blue Ridge Machinery & Tools. If you want a grooving tool, I got mine from Little Machine Shop. Sherline sells a 1/4" shank insert grooving tool, but it only cuts around .030" deep. This tool made by A.R. Warner cuts .250" deep. It has a 3/8" shank, which required a different tool holder. The QCTP will handle the 3/8" shank.

Sherline lathe accessories: Quick Change Toolpost from A2Z CNC A grooving tool from A.R. Warner that fits in the quick change toolpost: It has inserts for cutting grooves in 3 widths; .015", .031", and .062". I think .015" would be good for cooling fins on Harley or Indian motorcycle engines. Detailed Corvair engine, anyone? It could make aircraft engines too. The .031" grooves would be great for this bad boy:

And the buying public. If the general public looks and the box and wonders "Why????", it's not going to be a great seller. Everybody in America didn't drive one to high school.

They're also ugly.

I think they're ugly and they would be sales duds.

Did someone make 1/8 scale carbon fiber decals for you or are you using a smaller scale? This is not a criticism; I think it looks great. Just wonder if you found a source for big scale CF.

I find it amazing that the Army would put what is just about the most non-tactical color out there on tactical vehicles. I was in Germany from 1996-2000 as an M1A1 tanker. We had a guy who painted white shark's teeth on a mine plow once. The paint was barely dry before he was ordered to paint over it. But hey- cool job on the truck. Must have been nice not having that white paint on your truck.

A JOB! Woohoo! I've been out of work for 5 weeks. It was really starting to get me down. The only time I've ever been out of work is when I came home from serving in Germany...but I was on 6 weeks of Terminal Leave (still getting paid) and found a job after a couple of weeks. While unemployed, I didn't spend any money on hobby stuff just on principle. After getting the job, I went to the LHS and in the consignment section (a.k.a. "Gently used kits"), I found a Big Deuce for $60. I had a 20% off coupon, so I got it for $48. It's the recent issue with a flathead. The engine was painted and started, but then stripped. Not a bad deal, IMHO.

IIRC, he said September 22nd.

I wish they had photos.

Title pretty much says it all. Full kit or body/bumpers/glass only. I think it's a beautiful car.

I'm in. I'll probably get 3 or 4 of them. I can not wait to chop that top.

Land Speed Racing sounds like fun. I'd take part in that.

Build what makes you happy. Period. I think most everyone does, and more power to them. I would say the only people who are doing it wrong are the people who build to please contest judges.

Not that I know of, but Airfix's 1/24 P-51D has six .50s. I just gave away a set to a guy on this site. You might go to an aircraft website and ask if anyone can spare a few. I do have a second P-51. If someone on here can copy them, I'd be happy to send him a .50 or two. Just go to the Wanted section and ask if someone will cast them.

Do you walk around in the summertime sayin' "how about this heat?"?

Finally, more visible progress. I got the canopy and fairing all sorted out. It also has a cockpit. At first I was going to go with black paint on the canopy, but I decided to go for a more realistic look. That caused A LOT of work. I have to keep thinking ahead on this because of the paint. The exhaust stacks are supposed to be put on before the fuselage goes together, but it would be tough to polish the paint with those stacks in the way. I cut the nose open so I can install them through the nose before the spinner goes on. The radiator scoop also presented a problem It would be tough to paint the top part of the scoop with it being so close to the wing. Polishing? Forget about it. I painted the scoop before putting on the wing. I'll blend it in after the wing goes on. I was about to glue the wing on when I realized the scoop will also interfere with painting and polishing the wing. So tonight I painted the bottom of the wing. (It will not have any visible glue joints) Here's the color scheme: pearl white and pearl pink. It will have a thin black line at the color separation. Man, this thing is a lot more work than I thought it would be, but I think the results will be worth it.

If you don't want to cut up your foam-core sanding sticks, make one from wet/dry sandpaper glued to sheet styrene. Choose thickness based on what you need. Trim with X-acto and stainless straightedge. I make these all the time. One is a "flat board" type sander. Paper is not glued on because it's big and I want it to be reusable. It's about 8 inches long with 2 laminated sheets of .125" for a base, plus a sheet plastic handle glued on that also makes it stiffer. I used it for smoothing out the roof of Tamiya's 1/12 scale "Lunchbox" van. That van has a sunroof that I filled in. The roof is depressed all around that hole. The big flat board allowed me to fill in that shallow depression.