69NovaYenko

I also us all the above. Instead of Micro Stix I use a similar product called Pic-N-Stic by Pulpdent https://www.google.com/#q=Pic-N-Stic+by+Pulpdent as well as small ball of "The Museum Putty" ...it is a reusable tacky putty that used to hold things in place on the tip of a tooth pick https://www.google.com/#q=The+Museum+Putty I have also used this product for paint masking of odd shaped parts that are difficult to mask off with traditional tape as well as holding parts together during assembly mock ups and test fittings. A 24 ounce package will last you a while if you use it smartly. :-)

Is there a kitted or resin source for the Clutchflite 727 transmission.

Good news; Norm finally returned my call and I was able to place my order. Thanks for the contact info, it truly helped.

Thanks for the info folks. I`ll give your suggestions a spin.

Have a pair of tires (I not sure if they are TRUE rubber but they are AMT kit tires) that have raised lettering on both sides. I wish to remove the molded in lettering and replace it with a water slide decal of another manufacturer. 1) Is sanding it off the best method and if so what grit. 2) I wish to give the tires a coat of flat or semigloss clear to smooth out any irregularities which may cause the transfers not to stick. I believe I should use acrylic instead of lacquer/ enamel...just confirming that I`m going about this correctly.

I have an interest in ordering some stuff from Replica & Miniatures Of Maryland. Just don't see an on-line link to place order. Also, I need a current catalog, I have a a borrowed copy that's dated 2003. Have called the phone # listed on dated catalog; got voice mail stating that it was Norm Veber and to leave my return number...which I have done twice. That was a while ago but have not gotten return call. How, do I proceed from here. Norm got great stuff; I just want to get some more of it. Any suggestions would be appropriated. Thanks

Hummm...now that's a thought.

I`ll PM you.

I like the car..it will go on my "future biulds" list.

Yes, the do say "Goodyear Blue Streak Stock Car Special" in one side.Which I find odd to stumble across them in my parts box because I don't build Stock Car/NASCAR kits..humm must have gotten them in one of my glue bomb swoops. Any who, fortunately the script is only one side of the sidewalls, so I`ll flip the scripted side inward and use "Goodyear" decals on the blank side of the tire sidewalls. Would tires like this be found in the newer or old NASCAR kits.

Found these in my junk box but I cannot definitely say what kit they are out of but, I`m looking for another set or two of tires like them. I`m intending to use them on a couple of street/drag car builds. The really big tires that come in the Pro-street kits although very nice require the car to be tubed. These are ideal for the stock suspension/chassis configuration. Does anyone cast tires with this width and height profile...with or without tread.

Yep..it a pretty strong color. Unfourtunatly did check the Alclad color chart before purchasing the titanium gold...my miss-step. I`m now considering trying Testors Inca Gold lacquer or possibly trying Alclad II ALC #108 Pale Gold Any thoughts on which is a better match to the oil pan.

I appropriate everyones input. The 1:1 color I'm trying to match is this Milodon deep sump oil pan or at least come close to it. Does anyone have any suggestions. The Milodon catalog says it has a gold finish. I`m open to suggestions.

As I lay down the color I notice it`s kind of a silver color instead of gold. When the part dry I have a very thin goldish line on the very edges but the rest of the part looks more silvery. I have primed the parts with Alclad II ACL 309 Black Primer and Microfiller prior to laying down Gold Titanium. My first thought was that the paint wasn’t thoroughly mixed. So, I have shaken the mess out of the bottle then shot a second coat but, still got the same results. I thought it may have been a bad bottle so I got a second one but I still got the same results. I even thought I might need to dial down the air compressor a tad so I went from 17 psi to 12 psi. but go no different results. In short, I`m not getting a solid gold color. Has anyone experienced this issue; if so how did you resolve it.Thanks in advice for your assistance.

Thanks for replying to my question...appropriate you sharing your knowledge on the subject.

You are correct the car in the second image I posted is a `55 while my originally posted image is of a `57...my mistake .

To all, thanks for the response. With the info you good folks provided I was able to locate the kit. I see from the above photo this drag car is NOT a fictional Pro-Sportsman but, a REAL drag car. So far my web search has only turned up duplicate images of this car wheel standing.Can anyone tell us who campaigns the real 1:1 car.

I`m fairly certain that this drag car has been kitted. For some reason I believe it was Revell. Can anyone could anyone confirm this.

Cool build with a great back story.

Tim thanks for the reply...well keep us posted as things develop. :-)

My LHS folks said they had already placed an order for a couple but had not gotten a shipment date confirmation from his wholesaler. Maybe Tim Boyd might have a better line on a release date...how about it Tim got an info on this one. :-)

Thanks for the lead!!! I will HAVE to look into this.

Dropped in on my LHS a few day before Christmas and while I was there they showed me a flyer for soon to be released `65 Plymouth Hemi Super Stock "Melrose Missile". Does anyone have any additional info on this kit. I just love the `60ties thru early `70ties Pro-Stock-Super Stock cars. I excited to see that these tye of cars are being kited once again. I was also noticing that the flyer had BOTH Moebius and Model King logos..so I assume the two companies are teaming to get this kit to market.

Does anyone make a 1/25 scale decal of racing harnesses. Possible one locked and another open. I`m sure I`m not the only one who has wrestled with the photo etched racing harness kits. Because they have so many tiny P/E details it takes quite a bit of time and effort to put them together. I always find it very hard to work with two tweezers instead of my hands. But, with some tenacious resolve the end results look awesome! But there has to be a less frustrating and more time efficient way to get a pair of racing harness.

All the various responses have brought to my attention all the various nuances that need to be taken into account as i contemplate this build. Thanks one and all for valued input and insight. Happy holidays:-)