69NovaYenko

I have an interest in ordering some stuff from Replica & Miniatures Of Maryland. Just don't see an on-line link to place order. Also, I need a current catalog, I have a a borrowed copy that's dated 2003. Have called the phone # listed on dated catalog; got voice mail stating that it was Norm Veber and to leave my return number...which I have done twice. That was a while ago but have not gotten return call. How, do I proceed from here. Norm got great stuff; I just want to get some more of it. Any suggestions would be appropriated. Thanks

Hummm...now that's a thought.

I`ll PM you.

I like the car..it will go on my "future biulds" list.

Yes, the do say "Goodyear Blue Streak Stock Car Special" in one side.Which I find odd to stumble across them in my parts box because I don't build Stock Car/NASCAR kits..humm must have gotten them in one of my glue bomb swoops. Any who, fortunately the script is only one side of the sidewalls, so I`ll flip the scripted side inward and use "Goodyear" decals on the blank side of the tire sidewalls. Would tires like this be found in the newer or old NASCAR kits.

Found these in my junk box but I cannot definitely say what kit they are out of but, I`m looking for another set or two of tires like them. I`m intending to use them on a couple of street/drag car builds. The really big tires that come in the Pro-street kits although very nice require the car to be tubed. These are ideal for the stock suspension/chassis configuration. Does anyone cast tires with this width and height profile...with or without tread.

Yep..it a pretty strong color. Unfourtunatly did check the Alclad color chart before purchasing the titanium gold...my miss-step. I`m now considering trying Testors Inca Gold lacquer or possibly trying Alclad II ALC #108 Pale Gold Any thoughts on which is a better match to the oil pan.

I appropriate everyones input. The 1:1 color I'm trying to match is this Milodon deep sump oil pan or at least come close to it. Does anyone have any suggestions. The Milodon catalog says it has a gold finish. I`m open to suggestions.

As I lay down the color I notice it`s kind of a silver color instead of gold. When the part dry I have a very thin goldish line on the very edges but the rest of the part looks more silvery. I have primed the parts with Alclad II ACL 309 Black Primer and Microfiller prior to laying down Gold Titanium. My first thought was that the paint wasn’t thoroughly mixed. So, I have shaken the mess out of the bottle then shot a second coat but, still got the same results. I thought it may have been a bad bottle so I got a second one but I still got the same results. I even thought I might need to dial down the air compressor a tad so I went from 17 psi to 12 psi. but go no different results. In short, I`m not getting a solid gold color. Has anyone experienced this issue; if so how did you resolve it.Thanks in advice for your assistance.

Thanks for replying to my question...appropriate you sharing your knowledge on the subject.

You are correct the car in the second image I posted is a `55 while my originally posted image is of a `57...my mistake .

To all, thanks for the response. With the info you good folks provided I was able to locate the kit. I see from the above photo this drag car is NOT a fictional Pro-Sportsman but, a REAL drag car. So far my web search has only turned up duplicate images of this car wheel standing.Can anyone tell us who campaigns the real 1:1 car.

I`m fairly certain that this drag car has been kitted. For some reason I believe it was Revell. Can anyone could anyone confirm this.

Cool build with a great back story.

Tim thanks for the reply...well keep us posted as things develop. :-)

My LHS folks said they had already placed an order for a couple but had not gotten a shipment date confirmation from his wholesaler. Maybe Tim Boyd might have a better line on a release date...how about it Tim got an info on this one. :-)

Thanks for the lead!!! I will HAVE to look into this.

Dropped in on my LHS a few day before Christmas and while I was there they showed me a flyer for soon to be released `65 Plymouth Hemi Super Stock "Melrose Missile". Does anyone have any additional info on this kit. I just love the `60ties thru early `70ties Pro-Stock-Super Stock cars. I excited to see that these tye of cars are being kited once again. I was also noticing that the flyer had BOTH Moebius and Model King logos..so I assume the two companies are teaming to get this kit to market.

Does anyone make a 1/25 scale decal of racing harnesses. Possible one locked and another open. I`m sure I`m not the only one who has wrestled with the photo etched racing harness kits. Because they have so many tiny P/E details it takes quite a bit of time and effort to put them together. I always find it very hard to work with two tweezers instead of my hands. But, with some tenacious resolve the end results look awesome! But there has to be a less frustrating and more time efficient way to get a pair of racing harness.

All the various responses have brought to my attention all the various nuances that need to be taken into account as i contemplate this build. Thanks one and all for valued input and insight. Happy holidays:-)

When I stumble across these odd factoids I like to share: Similar to the Hurst/Pontiac Grand Prix-based Hurst SSJ program the Dodge Charger Merada was supposed to start from the Charger R / T 440 "Magnum engine and heavy duty package, both manual and automatic transmission could be elected. The exterior of the Charger Merada was painted a rather eye-catching shiny gray metallic shade called "Pewter Grey" with “Sunset Orange” stripes running longitudinally down the body sides and a pair of twin strips down the hood. The hood featured a vacuum-operated pop-up ram air scoop. This was the predecessor to the lay-flat/pop-up “Air Grabber” scoop found on Chargers two years later, funneling cool, dense air into the 440 Magnum plant. A revised front fascia featured a larger air inlet with a mess grille, eliminating the down bar bumperettes. A pair of bullet-style sport mirrors were added as well. Inside, the Merada Charger featured a revised center console with a color matching treatment and T-handled 4-speed Hurst shifter. If the project had to come to fruition, those “Hurst Golden Chargers” optioned with automatics would be equipped with the venerable Hurst Dual-Gate auto shifter. Designed to compete with the aforementioned “businessman’s muscle car” H/O, the Golden Charger was designed to be an upscale version of the already plush R/T SE, something which Dodge felt was a bit unnecessary. Moreover, Hurst wasn’t able to provide comparative data proving that the Charger Merada was any quicker than a standard Scat Pack R/T Charger equally equipped, despite rolling on lightweight Cragar S/S wheels wrapped in Goodyear Polyglas Wide Tread GT rubber. Ultimately, the Hurst Charger Merada was given the down turned thumb by Chrysler, making this machine yet another “what could’ve been” chapter in muscle car history.

When I stumble across the odd factoids I like to share: George Hurst had already in the 40's made a name as motor trimmers in Philadelphia, in the 60's when the muscle car era took off so was his Hurst Performance among the most senior in their field. Hurst had the cooperation of many different manufacturers during this hectic time. Swinging Bee was a prototype for Dodge 1969th This was built along with a Charger who was surnamed Merada and proposed to the Dodge division management as a "package solution" to advertise both models together, which might Kuden be attractive from a marketing standpoint. Swinging Bee whose name was the same set of existing Dodge Dart Swinger and fiercely larger Coronet Super Bee was yellow with black "bee-stripes" across the rear and a small spoiler. The engine was a fairly standard 383 "with dual exhaust with four-speed manual or alternatively 727 automatic transmission and additionally front disc brakes. Scoop on the hood was a little more special than it appears, then it will be set a valve was opened at high throttle, so to speak drug cold air to the engine. A simple but quite effective tuning tricks. Swingin Bee and Merada certainly were performance cars, but no killer in the top tier, but was developed by Hurst more given that image-cars, promotional models, and something fixpris what these would the cost could be distributed to client had been no specification. or some performance numbers helelr for that matter, the package Merada / swining Bee jumped Dodge not, and the two cars then disappeared without a trace. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=translate

When I stumble across odd car factoids I like to share the info. Did you know there was a 6 passenger Camaro. Will there was. The `67 thru `68 there Chevy offered interior option TR767 which was a front bench seat with fold down arm rest. When the arm rest was up you could get three passengers in the front seat. So three in the back and three in the front equals a 6 passenger Camaro. Now anyone who has ridden in a Camaro realizes you had to have some pretty skinny friends to accomplish this feat. Would not want to be the guy in the middle on a cross country road trip...especially in a stick Camaro. LOL. http://www.69pace.com/interior67_767.htm

Decals almost always need some manner of adjustment...I`ve never placed one on a car and it dead on exactly how I wanted it.I have found some decals react poorly to some setting solutions. On occasions I have applied a very tiny, tiny drop of Future with the tip of a tooth pick to some decals to get them to stay put..and it also allows for some adjustment before setting.

I was casually chatting with some of the folks at my LHS the other day when one of the guys stated the he used vinegar to set his decals instead of wasting his money on the "proper" stuff. He says he mixes 2-3 caps of the white vinegar into the small container that holds his warm decal soaking water. He then soaks the decals until they come off (1 to 2 minutes on average) their paper backing. According to him the vinegar/water solution softens the decals enough to make them conform to body curves etc. as well as snugly adhere to the cars surface. He also says the vinegar and water solution works well with both inkjet and laser printed decals. Is anyone familiar with this method.