69NovaYenko

Thanks for the feedback folks. I currently have a Paasche VL. with a number two needle/nozzle set. I have not intention of getting read on my current airbrush because it does a decent job but I`m thinking about doing an upgrade. I am transitioning from enamels to automotive quality lacquers ( i.e. MCW Automotive Finishes / Scale Finishes etc.) and was seeking some insight on what needle/nozzle combination has been working well for others. I have learned that the needle/nozzle combination is important as well as what type of media (enamel/acrylic/lacquer) your going to run through it are important considerations when selecting a new brush. As Helper Monkey pointed out the viscosity of the pigment once thinned makes a big difference in the guns operation (clogging) and the quality of the paint job. Larger pigments need a larger opening while finer pigments do well with smaller openings.

I know that the size of the needle determines the spray pattern of an airbrush. What needle or needles would be the best chose of airbrushing 1/25 and possibly 1/12 scale cars.

The first car I purchased with my own money was a very high mileage `63 Nova with a straight six. You could open the hood and look straight down to ground on both sides of the motor. Now engine bays are packed so tight with emissions controls and electronic boxes you cannot see the crack of dawn let lone the ground. Lol I stopped wrenching on them in the eighties.

Helper Monkey hope this helps clarify things .. Best

Thanks for the insight and advise.

When airbrushing you have about 20 minutes or so dry time before you make the next passes as you build up color. My question is how do you keep the paint from drying in the gun in between passes. Do you disconnect paint jar/cup and run cleaner through it. After all if the paint is drying on the car body it`s also drying in the gun. Sometime the tip starts to dry up and clog. How do you airbrush veterans address this. All tips and advise is welcomed.

Cool beans...I will have to try it soon. Thanks. for the 411.

Wash them in warm water, mild soap and a tooth brush (an old one will do) to get all the mold release off. Mold release will keep the paint from sticking. Some use Westley's Bleach cleaner it used to clean the whitewalls of tires etc (you can get it at most auto parts stores I`ve even seen it at places like Wal-Mart in the auto supple section). If you use the Westley`s let part soak overnight and then rinse. Whichever method you use after the rinse let the parts air dry.

You don`t say...GRAPEVINE by Cover Girl...will shut the front door. I would have never thought. Did you brush it or airbrush it. Did you have thin it or is it straight from the bottle.

That`s one bitchin` ride...what is the name of the color you used on the dash and seats and who makes it.

Looking to replicate a late 60ties Keith Black Engineering 426 Hemi race engine. While look at reference pictures it suddenly suck me that in a number of the reference photos the engines were not painted in the traditional Mopar engine orange. Further reading indicated the blocks were special cast aluminum. What would be the best paint color for block, heads and oil pan...silver, aluminum with a over coat of dull coat or some other color. Open to suggestions. .

Mademan thank you..thank you..thank you for the lead. Will be ordering them in the morning.

GTX6970 thanks for the lead as well.

GTX thanks for the confirmation. High Octane & Greg Myers thanks for the info and suggestions. However, I`m was hoping to find that exact same setup as the one pictured above. The Ford Thunderbolt and Galaxie kits have dual carbs in an "inline" configuration. The project I`m planning a dual carb "cross ram" setup. So unfortunately the forced cold air setup from the Thunderbolt/Galaxie kits are not designed to fit the cross ram configuration.

Thanks for the lead.

Before I purchase it I`d like to know if the Model King/AMT kit of Phil Bonner `65 Mustang Daddy Warbucks have this forced cold air induction setup. If it does not is there a 1:25 kit that has this setup. Thanks in advance for the assistance.

Are there 426 Hemi valve covers with this style of vintage breathers (dual or single) available. If so who has them.

Thanks Keyser...I pray that things get better for him.

Is Scale Models By Chris still active. I went to the site to place an order but had problems logging in.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

Toner 283 Gasser Models has vintage speed equipment and speed shop decals. There are 4 sheets of in 1:25 scale. Spoke with him yesterday and he said he had them available. Suitable for use on various model cars and in dioramas. Decals are color and sold per full sheet. Each sheet is 8-1/2” X 11” with a white background. There are four decals of each image. All decals are “water slide” type. Images, including AC, Accel, Ace Racing Clutches, Auto Meter, B&M Automotive, Bell Helmets, C-T Strokers, Casler Cheater Slicks, Champion, Clay Smith Cams (Mr. Horsepower), Cragar, Crane Cams, Crower Cams, Doug’s Headers, Drag News, Dragmaster, Edelbrock, EELCO, Engle Cams, Firestone, Fram, Goodyear, Grant Piston Rings, Hays, Hedman Hedders, Hilborn Fuel Injection, Holley, Hooker Headers, Hoosier Racing Tire, Howards Cams, Hurst Floor Shift, Hurst Line/Loc, IHRA, Isky Racing Cams, Joe Hunt Magnetos, Judson Electronic Magneto, M&H Racemaster, Mallory Ignition, Marvel Mystery Oil, McGurk Camshafts, M/T (Mickey Thompson), Milodon, Mondello Heads, Moon, NGK Spark Plugs, NHRA, Pennzoil, Potvin Racing Cams and Raybestos Brake Linings, AC Oil Filter, ANDRA, Art Carr Performance Products, Astro Custom Wheels, Auburn Spark Plugs, Autolite Spark Plugs, Bardahl, Brodix Cylinder Heads, Bruce’s Tires, Burd Piston Rings, Champion Spark Plugs, Chevrolet, Cloyes Camshaft Drives, Comp Cams, Continental Piston Rings, Corvette Sting Ray, Crane Cams, Crankshaft Company, Cure-Ride Shocks, Dempsey-Wilson Racing Cams, Develco Performance Products, Dixco Tachometers, Dixie, Doug Herbert Performance Parts, Douglass Electronic Balancing, Drag Fast, DragShocks, E-T Mags, EELCO Linkage, Fenton, Ford, Forged True Pistons, Fram, Giovannoni Cams, Goodyear Tires, Holley, Hurst, Moon Equipped, Rapid Cool, Rocket Racing, Route 66, Schiefer, Schneider Racing Cams, Sig Erson Cams, Simpson, So-Cal Speed Shop, Stahl Headers, Stewart-Warner, STP and Sun Tach, Bruce’s Tires, Chevrolet, Chrysler, Comp Springs, Crankshaft Co., Develco Performance, Dragmaster, EBC Brakes, Edelbrock, Erson Cams, Flowtech Exhaust, Gumout, Halibrand, Hastings, Hedman, Hilborn, Holley, Hooker, Hoosier, Hurst, Isky, Lady Luck, Lee Filters, Monroe, Moon, Pedrick, Racer Brown Cams, Rat Fink, Rislone Racing, Royal Purple, S&S Headers, Schaller Racing Cams, Simpson, Getz Gears, Hastings, Hi-Jacker, Inglese, Iron Cross, Isky, Jardine Headers, JE Pistons, Jesel, Jocko’s, Joe Hunt, Kinsler, Kirkey Racing, Klotz, Lady Luck, Lakewood, Lee, Lone Wolf, Lunati, Malco, Mallory, Monroe, Moon, Moroso, Mr. Gasket, Mickey Thompson (M/T), Offenhauser, P&G Valve-Gapper, Parigian Racing Cams, Perfect Circle, Powermaster, Quaker State, Ramco, Stewart-Warner, Valvoline, Venolia, Vitar Engineering, Weber, Weiand, Weld Racing and Wiseco.. For the 1:8 scale folks he has 3 sheets of vintage speed shops, 2 sheets of speed equipment and 2 sheets of drag strips. Go to http://gassermodels.com/ and look under the decals section. Hope this helps.

Yep Ace-GarageGuy thats the stuff I`m talking about.

Mike, thanks for the suggestion.

I aware that during the mid to late 60ties Mopar applied Cosmoline was applied to leaf springs and various suspension parts to prevent rust. I want to simulate the Cosmoline that was applied to these suspension parts. Any suggestions on what paint color could be used to simulate this petroleum based rust preventive gel.Also was this a Moper thing are was it a common practice with all car manufacturers during that era. And, approximately when did the practice of applying this petroleum based rust preventive gel begin and end.