69NovaYenko

Ok then after cleaning airbrush with Lacquer do you run a finale pass through the gun with water to rinse the cleaning solvent out..

I was wondering what you good folks have been using successfully to clear the above mentioned products from you airbrush. I have read several online articles & view a number of YouTube clips on the matter. It summation it appears Lacquer Thinner, Acetone, Ammonia (used to clear gun of Future sprayed as a clear coat) are ALL bad for the longevity of your airbrush seals and packing. Some of these even attack the brass wall of gun or outer chrome plating. One online article stated quote:"...acetone should not be considered a fix, for removing enamel, lacquers from your airbrush, in the long term it will have a detrimental effect on your airbrushes internal rubber and plastic components." Note: Acetone is what is recommend for clearing Alclad II from you airbrush. Then I read a 2007 FSM post that stated..." I use Windex almost exclusively for cleaning "Acrylic paint" and "Future" out of my airbrush. Windex or any other ammonia-based window cleaner will work fine. It's the ammonia that does the trick, the water just washes the ammonia away. It`s the Ammonia that really works to clean Future from your airbrush. Windex without ammonia will not work.." Note: I viewed this YouTube clip featuring Grex Airbrush Representative stating Ammonia does not play nicely with airbrushes electroplated brass interior. But he does recommend Lacqure Thinner as a good go to for cleaning up after a paint session. Another 2019 post In FSM stated quote: "...best product/substance for cleaning Future (Klear) out of your airbrush after clear coating session is Alcohol with a final flush of water...." Another 2019 ARC post stated quote "...never used Acetone...I doesn't play nicely with inner brass bodies of airbrush so proceed with caution. First there is paint thinner, then lacquer thinner which is stronger than paint thinner and then Acetone; as you move toward acetone, the type of thinner gets stronger and more destructive. Every air brush is different so just use your best judgment. I use Tamiya X-22 clear gloss. I tried & love the stuff, I'll never go back to Future...." I could go on & on & on but you get the idea...there a mixed options out here. So, I`m hoping to get a bit more clarification from you seasoned air gunners on the matter.

Putting the internal parts that come in direct contact with paint (not the entire airbrush body..because of the internal seal) in a mason jar and the jar in the ultra sonic cleaning machine sounds like an interesting approach. I wonder if the does that with the lid on or off the jar. And, I wonder would an empty baby food jars work .

By all means please give us your 2 cents . I like the way you masked off the body.

Off the cuff if you're shooting lacquers or enamels I`m not sure if Dawn & plain tap water will remove any residue. I did have someone (who exclusively shoots acrylics) tell me they use Windex "WITHOUT" ammonia in their sonic cleaner. Supposedly, the ammonia will start to eat away at the guns chrome plating with prolonged baths. As for using Super Clean I I first want to inquire if it will remove lacquer & enamel paints. Then secondly if it does what's the best dilution ratio. Because I have concerns about damaging thee guns seal.

I was wondering if anyone was using an Ultrasonic Cleaner to DEEP clean their airbrush. If so what has been your experience. What is the best non-combustible cleaning solution that will clear lacquer/acrylic/enamel paints out of your gun. Any tips or insights are welcome. Thanks in advance for looking at this post. Ps: I was think about using Super Clean because its non-combustible but I`m not sure if it is safe to used on airbrushes chrome plating and internal metals etc. And, if its safe to use on gun should it be used at full strength or diluted.

You mentioned newspaper. Back in the day newspapers were Ok...however the ink they are using to print newspapers today appears to leave its ink on the model...not to mention how challenging it to find a newspaper now-a-days in a digital world. I had to totally strip two bodies because of news print ink bleed through. Hence this is why i posed this question.

I was wondering what type of "PAPER" do you guys & gals use to mask off your projects. Dollar wise it isn't practical to wrap the ENTIRE body in Tamiya tape.

Humm...sine their "Big Rig" parts I wonder if these are to large for cars. Well anyway, I ordered a set just to see if they work out for a car . Thanks for the info.

Does anyone have a source for photoetched door lock cylinders. Spoke with my supplier & they said they were no longer about to get them so it was dropped from the inventory.

Not real knowledgeable about early Ford Mustangs...so I asking the group what year is this one....`64 or `65? Thanks for replies in advance.

Looking for some more of this material but it appears I can no longer find a good link for them. Or at worse case when I can source this material from possibly one of the arts & crafts shops. Thanks in advance your assistance.

Has this style of wheel been kitted or is there a comparable wheel available by one of the resin casters. Thanks for looking and any leads.

Awesome built

Has anyone attempted to airbrushed Molotow Liquid Chrome. If so, was any thinning involved..I suspect not since it pretty thin already. Also, how did it lay down. Is an undercoat required like Alclad. Does anyone have tips on airbrushing it. Can it be clear coated. Thanks

Here`s the link: Comparing 20 Different Hobby Flat Black Paints To Mosou Black - Which Is Best? Tamiya? Vallejo? - YouTube

That Is TRULY "dead" black in hue! Thanks for sharing! This evening I stumbled across this YouTube clip "Comparing 20 Different Hobby Flat Black Paints To Mosou Black - Which Is Best? Tamiya? Vallejo? " You may find it of interest.

My local hobby shop has a full rack of Hombrol paints for the military modelers..next time I`m there I`ll make a point of picking up a tin and trying it out. Thanks for the suggestion.

Scientifically the pigments ability to absorb light is part of what gives the pigment black "shades". For example there are some black pigments I`ve used that look black & are label by it`s manufacturer as "flat black" however, once they are dried it has grayish black appearance..not "True Black". As far as the paint being "dead" black in hue, or have a "dead" flat finish the ideal would be both. Be most importantly I`m hoping to find a new paint that is "dead" black in hue.

Thanks everyone for the feedback it is greatly appreciate. On that note I think I’ll pull the trigger with them.

Model Master flat black enamel has been my go-to for ages. However, since Model Master has dropped all it enamel paints from the product lineup I`m looking a comparable replacement. All flat black paints are NOT created equal..just like all white paints are not created equal. If yon`t believe me try touching up something without knowing the brand of the original color....it will give you the blues trying to match the original shade...ask any auto body/paint tech. Someone suggested Vallejo Flat Black Acrylic Air. I was told that the accuracy of color is spot on & it conveniently comes pre-thinned for airbrush use. I`m open to all suggestions.

I was surfing the web when I stumbled across this link to "The Last Detail Inc Decals" under a link for "The Parts Box". My understanding is "The Parts Box"is in Australia. I`ve purchased decals from The Last Last Detail in the past when it was located in Chattanooga Tennessee. Has anyone dealt with The Parts Box. If so did it take long to get your items since their overseas.

I`ve used Johnson & Johnson "Future" acrylic liquid floor wax in the past with great results, but my bottle finally empty. My understanding is that Johnson & Johnson no longer makes the item. Hence I looking for a substitute replacement for my beloved Future wax Wax. Open for any and all suggestions. Thanks in advance

Is there a kitted exhaust cut-out? If not I`d welcome any suggestions on how to best replicate this configuration. Also I`m looking for Glass Pack style mufflers....any lead on finding them will be greatly appropriated. Thanks for looking.

Looking to fabricate my own exhaust pipes coming of the headers to the mufflers using round styrene rod. What or best methods of bending styrene. Also, any tips, how tow tricks or recommendations would be appropriated as well.