69NovaYenko

This is gonna be one bitching ride!! I will be following this build closely.

Hummm...now that you mention it, that is odd....

gman I recall seeing that episode when it aired live!

Thanks for the reply. The "small" picture appears to be more in line with the "Hurst" version of the `70 Chrysler 300 with the trunk spoiler and hood air scoops. The larger pictures are missing the aforementioned trunk/hood add-ons hence it appears to be more in line with the "stock" version of the subject.

I am aware that Jo-han did a `68 Chrysler 300. However, I was wondering, if the `70 Hurst Chrysler 300 has ever been cast in 1:25 scale as a promo, annual or by a resin caster. Chrysler, in conjunction with Hurst Performance Corporation, developed the A-12 Chrysler 300 Hurst package with high-performance 440ci V8 TNT engine, 727 Torque-Flite automatic transmission, specially designed fiberglass power bulge hood with two depressed rotary hood latches, a winged aerodynamic styled trunk spoiler, sweeping quarter extensions and a striking paint scheme of Spinnaker White with Gold Metallic accents and special striping. Additionally, the car was equipped with factory air conditioning, dual power leather bucket seats, power disc brakes, power steering, power rear deck lid release, power hideaway headlights, vinyl top, styled factory road wheels and a loaded of other luxury comforts.

Chris, nice build..nice color combo!

Freaking on point. My uncle Gene had a `69 Cadillac DeVille hardtop in the exact same color combination...man does this build bring back memories.

AWESOME..truly AWESOME!!!

Hmm...now that`s a thought!

Thanks for the guidance!!!

You differently have my attention..however I was under the impression that the only era correct paint they carried were "ENAMELS". How do I identify their “Non-Enamel” paint products from the “ENAMEL” products on their website?

Besides MCM Automotive Finishes are their other aftermarket vendors in the hobby world that offer "ERA CORRECT" colors ready to shoot in one to two ounce quantities for 1:25 car/truck body panels. I am aware of House of Kolor but a quart of color is far to much for a 1:25 car body not to mention the cost. I was eyeballing Gravity Colors however they are not car manufacturer year specific (not to mention they have a hold on taking new orders until they resolve their back log of orders issue). I`m trying to move away from the "enamel" paints that are marketed by Scale Auto Finishes; while it`s a great product the inconvenience of "dry time" etc is a major bummer!!!

Steve: This is a builder I`m attempting to rebuild; it was painted when I acquired it. I assure you I would not have wasted paint nor my time to apply several color coats to it then attempt to straighten the hood on the back end!

Twisted....

Have vintage Jo-Han kit but it has a slightly warped hood. Looking for any suggestions on how to fit it.

I have to ask..what is your technique for flat/matte finishes to avoid silvering

I`m putting this question out there to get a general concussions on how folks handle the decal process. Should you decal a body before or after clear-coating and waxing. If you decal after the clear-coat and waxing are there any recommendations of how to protect the decals from damage.

Yes, the body was washed and sety aside tio dry for 72 hours before clear-coat was applied.

You are correct..it was shot straight from the can.

Thanks for all the replies and info. By the way, how can you tell when the enamel has "cured" and "fully gassed out".

Thanks for all the advise about the "Pro`s" of using clear lacquers over enamels. However, at this juncture the body has already has been color-coated in enamel. So, is airbrushing Future my most safest/cost effective option for a non-yellowing clear-coat that wont harm the color coat and decals at this juncture?

Lol..not a bad idea!! It took several months recouping emotionally from that train wreck.LOL But, I just finished building another body from a second kit I had..if you first don't succeed try again! Guess, its all part of the learning curve, unfortunately. So, do any of you knowledgeable folks have any recommends for a clear- coat that will not harm the enamel color-coat and decals.

Are you saying that this "quizzing" (for the lack of a better word) was due to a reaction between the K2 clear-coat and the enamel color coat.. If that is the case, do you have any recommendations on what would be the correct type of clear-coat to apply over an enamel color-coat.

Your are correct that the top coat was Scaled-finishes era correct enamel. This is the Max 2K High Gloss Clear Coat that I used.

After devoting a substantial amount of time over several months, effort, money for era correct paint (Scale Finishes), photo-etched parts & "custom" made decals etc for this project I was finally down to the final steps of completion when this happened. My LHB guy had recommended Max 2X high gloss clear coat as a final topcoat. I`m was devastated. I attempted to strip it but it was to no avail. the Max 2X was harder than petrified rock. So it become a junk body in my parts box. My question is what did "I" do wrong. How can I avoid this from happening again. ANY and All advise and input is welcome. Thanks in advance