69NovaYenko

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions! I just want to take a moment to let others know the final outcome. I opted to follow BigTallDads suggestion: It turned out nicely. Thank`s Ray for the advice as well everyone else that responded. I will experiment with the other suggestions on a few of my junk bodies to see how they work out as well.

ote Well, folks, the whole story goes like this. Recently, I ordered three sets of “2 Easy Clear” clear-coat from Scalefinishes; which consist of a "Part A" & a "Part B". Several nights ago I opened “Bottle B” and discovered the contents had dried in the bottle ; in fact, the brass BB`s was stuck to the sidewall of the bottle. I have sent an e-mail to Jameston but have yet to get a reply. I realize this is not his primary gig and he a pretty busy guy. However, I went back and looked on your web-site and noticed the “2Easy Clear” was no longer listed. So in frustration, I did a test pass of Tamiya Clear TS-13. So since he is no longer listing a clear coat I`m looking for other viable options. Please note I am not bashing Sclaefinishes..they make a GREAT product. I`m just looking for a resolution to this issue.

Finished top coating the body of my project with Scalefinishe`s. It turned out great. I wish to clear-coat the body now that I have applied my decals. my better judgement told me to do a test pass of Tamiya Clear TS-13 on a scrap piece that was shot with the same paint. MAN ,I`m I glad it followed my fist mind...the Tamiya went on nicely but twenty minutes later when I returned the Tamiya had quazer the color coat... badly I might add. Can anyone suggest a clear coat that will play NICELY with Sclaefinish.

That's GREAT news..thanks for sharing the info!!!!

Thanks for the assist Ace & Mark. I was given a tease of the story but never told who won. I finally had a chance to read the story in its entirety. All, I have to say is the T.V. show "Street Outlaws" racers have nothing on those old school east coast street racers......just saying.

In the 2011 “Fast and Furious 5” there is a scene in which Dominic Toretto and three of his street racing crew (Roman Pearce, Hen, Brian O`Conner) decide to have a stop light to stop light quarter mile race for a million dollars. However, art imitates life. Around 1968 there was actually an east coast “street race” for a quarter million dollars. Magazine editor Tony DeFeo published the story in Cars Magazine. It is said that the story may have appeared in a 1986 issue. DeFeo titled this legendary street race the "Quarter Million Quarter Mile." DeFeo knew an ex-street racer and speed shop owner who originally told him about the race. The story published in Cars Magazine basically quotes what speed shop owner told DeFeo. Supposedly, the way the story goes is that during the last sixties there was a bitter rivalry between Newark New Jersey and Brooklyn New York street racers. The “Mutt Brothers” (Newark street racers) would consistently come over to Brooklyn and kick the butts of the Brooklyn street racers; they'd take their money and make them look bad on our own turf. After a period it was decided by both sides that the issue of who was king of the east coast street racers needed to be resolved. So eventually, it came down to one run between the two cars Newark’s “Mutt Brothers” with Ronald Lyles their star driver most likely have been behind the wheel and Brooklyn`s "Super John" McFadden. The stakes were high; each side put up $125,000, for a quarter million buck purse; winner takes all. Now remember, we're talking 1968 bucks here. According to my calculations, that would be well over $6,977,140 in 2016 dollars!!! My question is, is anyone familiar with the "Cars Magazine" article, does anyone have a copy of the article or by chance familiar with this story?

Could a blue tinted water slide decal imprinted with the appropriate number of fins, FMCO logo and 427 SOHC script be used resolve the issue...just throwing that out into the universe as a thought.

Is there a photo-etched set for the sixty era Dodge Charger?

Hummm...distilled water might be a good solution. Thanks for the idea.

" Great Caesar`s ghost!!!! " Perry White: Editor-in-Chief Of the Daily Planet

I washed to get the invisible oils from my fingers while decaling as well as dust/dirty and any other contaminants off the body and hood before I clear coated. After washing in warm water with a drop or two of Dawn Liquid I sat in a dust/lint free environment to air dry, I choose not to use a towel (paper or linen) to dry it being concerned that it would deposit lint/dust back to the body. The type of paint was Acrylic Lacquer. Yes, after employing the Barkeepers Friend I had rinsed the hood but; I removed the excess water with canned air this time around. v.s. drip-drying.

Update. The vinegar took a large number of the spots out. However, I still had three larger stubborn watermarks that refused to yield their hold on the paint job. So, I ended up resorting to Barkeeper's Friend; it knocked them out pronto. I noticed Barkeeper's Friend acted like a very fine rubbing compound as it removed the spots. Had to mindful that I didn't rub through the color coat down to the primed.

Thanks for the tips everyone. :-)

Yep...I sure these bad boys will show through the clear coat.

I gave my body a final wash with Dawn detergent and water before shooting the clear coat to ensure all fingerprints, grease, dust etc was off the body. To my anguish, the hood has a series of stubborn water spots that have appeared. I washed the hood once more with clear water this time and the spots are still there. The spots appear to be on the surface. I Googled to see if my city has hard or soft water. The on-line answer was my city did not have hard water at all and there was no need to buy a water softener; in fact, my query revealed my town has been rated as one of the best in the nation...who knew. I do not wish to scrub the finish and scratch my beautiful color...after all it is five passes of lacquer deep. Yes, I know the paint was dry not only had the hood been air drying in a dust free environment for two weeks and I put it into the dehumidifier for 45 minutes as well. Has anyone had this issue and if so how did you deal with it? Any advice would be appreciated.

Sending P.M.

Does anyone know if Franklin Ink Decals is still active? They made some awesome lowrider decal graphics. It appears that the last active post to their Facebook page was 2013.

A set of "Vouge" decals...humm...now that would be the ticket!!!!!!!!! The wire wheels are truly classic and very bitching!

Is there a source for 1/25 Vogue tires and wire wheels?

Great looking start. I`ve been thinking of doing a low rider project so I`ll be following the progress of this one.

I have read on an AMC forum that the correct engine color is Ditzler # 13730 or Seymore EN #66.This color was used on a variety of AMC engines and covers the 69-73 model years. Eastwood also makes an AMC Aqua Metallic Blue color that is a passable match. However, the Eastwood AMC Aqua Metallic Blue is not close enough for a concourse or high-dollar show car. The Ditzler # 13730 & Seymore EN #66 is a bit deeper turquois with a tad more gloss finish. Hope this helps. Ditzler # 13730 / Seymore EN #66: Eastwood AMC Aqua Metallic Blue

While we are on the topic of Pledge Floor Care Finish has anyone used it on windshields and other car glass? If so do you dip or brush it on? Have had problems with it pooling on the windshield with the dipping method lately.

Digging the color!!!

That looks sweet. If someone wants to order one who is manufactor and model number?

It certainly is coming along nicely. Like the color. By te way where did you source the awesome looking rims?