69NovaYenko

Art thanks for the guidance..

Thanks for all the advise one and all. Art, I think I will try your method of drying body shells. I`m using automotive Acrylic Enamels,as well as Lacquers paints and clearcoats. I`m also keeping the temp at 105 degrees. How long do you allow the painted body shell to air dry before placing it in the dehydrator? And, how long do you leave the painted body shell cin the dehydrator.

Thanks for the reply. Hummm...had not thought of the other possibilities for the Nesco such as drying putty, decals, washed bodies as well as for paint. Thanks for the advise as well as ideas for other uses for the dehydrator.

My Nesco food dehydrator yesterday. Since I`m on vacation this morning was spent opening up the trays so for parts can set inside. I read the 2003 post of “Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers” and was able to gleaned a lot of valid info. However, what should I hold the freshly painted body on? In the post there were several comments alluding to tensioned metal stands could cause body warpage. The post never confirmed or denied the statement. So, first off is this true or false? And, if this is true what does one set a freshly paint wet body on?

Many..many thanks for making an ernest effort at answering the question. It is genuinely appreciated. :-)

Thanks for the replies.

In the 60ties Olds hi-performance "W" code cars had inner fender well skirts were painted red. Can anyone tell me the name/paint code of this red? On one of the 1:1 Olds forums someone mentioned they thought it was called "Flame Red. So far I have not been able to locate this color listed on any of the automotive paint chips references. Also, what years did Olds run the red inner fender well skirts...1966-1970? Thanks in advance for the assistance. -G

Recently, I stumbled upon PaintRef.com. If you are looking for an "ERA CORRECT" automotive paint info for your car/truck build this is the go to site. It shows the model, year and paint codes from 1922 to present. The sites database not only shows scanned in paint chip pages from automotive manufacturer brochures(23,225 pages view-able online) it links the paint chip to the automotive paint manufacturer (PPG/ Dupont/ BASF/ Sherwin Williams etc) names and codes they used for the color. Auto manufacturers covered include: Acura Alfa-Romeo AMC Appliance Aston Martin Auburn Audi Austin Autobianchi Autocar Bentley Bertone BMC BMW Bricklin Brockway Buick Cadillac Chevrolet Chrysler Citroen Crosley Dacia Daewoo Daihatsu Datsun Delorean DeSoto Diamond T Dodge Eagle Federal Ferrari Fiat Fleet Ford Fruehauf Geo GM GMC Graham Harley Davidson Highway Hino Honda Hudson Hummer Hupmobile Hyundai Indian Infiniti Innocenti Iso Isuzu Jaguar Jeep Jensen Kaiser Kentucky Kia Lada Laforza Lamborghini Land Rover Lexus Lincoln Lotus Mack Mahindra Maruti Maserati Mazda Mercedes Mercury MG Military Mini Mitsubishi Morris Moskvich Nash Nissan Oldsmobile Opel Packard Pininfarina Plymouth Pontiac Porsche Rambler Range Rover Renault Reo Rolls Royce Rootes Ryder Saab Saturn Seat Skoda Smart SsangYong Studebaker Subaru Suzuki Talbot Tesla Toyota Triumph UMM Vauxhall Vector Vespa Volkswagen Volvo White Willys Yamaha Yugo Try this link. http://paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml

In process of restoring a built Jo-Han kit. My issue is the glue (most likely tube type glue) is tenaciously resisting any attempts to get it to release the windshield from the body. This is the older style of glass that has two clear strips that attach to the roof interior and two locating post on the underside of the truck deck. I do not wish to damage the glass nor damage the body. The bond appears to be incredibly strong after all these years. Any and all suggestions are welcomed. .

Recently, I stumbled upon PaintRef.com. If you are looking for an "ERA CORRECT" automotive paint info for your car/truck build this is the go to site. It shows the model, year and paint codes from 1922 to present. The sites database not only shows scanned in paint chip pages from automotive manufacturer brochures (23,225 pages view-able online) it links the paint chip to the automotive paint manufacturer (PPG/ Dupont/ BASF/ Sherwin Williams etc) names and codes they used for the color. Auto manufacturers covered include: Acura Alfa-Romeo AMC Appliance Aston Martin Auburn Audi Austin Autobianchi Autocar Bentley Bertone BMC BMW Bricklin Brockway Buick Cadillac Chevrolet Chrysler Citroen Crosley Dacia Daewoo Daihatsu Datsun Delorean DeSoto Diamond T Dodge Eagle Federal Ferrari Fiat Fleet Ford Fruehauf Geo GM GMC Graham Harley Davidson Highway Hino Honda Hudson Hummer Hupmobile Hyundai Indian Infiniti Innocenti Iso Isuzu Jaguar Jeep Jensen Kaiser Kentucky Kia Lada Laforza Lamborghini Land Rover Lexus Lincoln Lotus Mack Mahindra Maruti Maserati Mazda Mercedes Mercury MG Military Mini Mitsubishi Morris Moskvich Nash Nissan Oldsmobile Opel Packard Pininfarina Plymouth Pontiac Porsche Rambler Range Rover Renault Reo Rolls Royce Rootes Ryder Saab Saturn Seat Skoda Smart SsangYong Studebaker Subaru Suzuki Talbot Tesla Toyota Triumph UMM Vauxhall Vector Vespa Volkswagen Volvo White Willys Yamaha Yugo Thought it might be useful to others so I`m posting the link. http://paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml P.S. If there is enough interest maybe this post will be pinned as a reference source. Enjoy

By the way, at one time didn't Bandit Resins make a '68 442 post car or was that someone else???

Darn, so sorry to hear your Johan '68 Olds 442 find was a bust. I was hoping to find a hardtop like the Jo-Han annual. But if a rag-top is all that`s available I will look into Modelhaus when they reopen and are back on-line. Thanks big time for the Modelhaus lead.

I recall a while ago someone saw selling a 1/25 `68 Olds 442 2 door hardtop on one of the on-line auction sites. I do believe Jo-Han kitted them originally. Unfortunately, I just never got around to snagging a couple of them. Does anyone know if they are still available?

I just had a very bad experience using cling wrap on my current project. Had to do a two tone paint on a section of the body. I used Tamiya tape to establish my paint cut line. However, instead of using masking paper to cover up the part I did not want to spray over I opted to use cling wrap. The next morning the paint had dried and I removed the cling warp. The paint masked off by the cling wrap was soft and the cling wrap had transferred it wrinkles into the paints surface. Additionally, the actual plastic of the body where the cling wrap had been was now slightly soft ,stick and gooy. Mind you the base color had cured, I was using lacquer and the lacquer had been laided down for over a week before the masking job. I eventually had to strip the entire body and start over again. I didn't know exactly what caused this to happen but I was certain it had to be caused by the cling wrap. Art, thanks for shedding light of what most likely happened. I personally will not use cling wrap again.. I learned this lesson the hard way.

Who-rah..then I`m certainty interested in this one.

My question is it an "altered wheel base" car or a pro stock/ drag car?

I was able to find an on-line unit converter It will be helpful for converting the millimeters to point and visa versa. For those who may have an interest or a need here is the link http://www.translatorscafe.com/cafe/EN/units-converter/typography/4-14/millimeter-point_(printer’s)/

Thanks for the leads Harry P & Chris. I will followup on them both. The project I have is already painted black. The black lettering will pop out ...what I was hoping to find was white, red, gold, sliver etc in a small point.

Folks may have an easier time identifying Annie May Bullock from this photo Remember I`m from St Louis. One night in St. Louis Tina Turner, then Anna Mae Bullock, went with her sister Aillene to a nightclub called The Manhattan where the Kings of Rhythm were performing. It was that night that she met Ike Turner. I heard the story numerous times because my mothers oldest sister (my aunt Stella) and Aillene were gal pals and my aunt was part of the group of girls that when to the Manhattan that faithful night. Later in life St Louis musician Chuck Berry`s brother (Larry Berry) lived next door to my family. As a young child I would see Chuck Berry regularly visiting his brother and nephews on holidays.

Yes, Letraset transfers were the ones I use to use and they came in thousands of fonts and point sizes.

Mark, thanks for clarifying why I`m having such a challenging time finding what I seeking.

I did a google search and to my surprise discovered there is very..very..few supplies for it. And, what I did find was the largers letter sets 24 point 36 point. I`m seeking the smaller smaller 6 point, 8 point, 10 point etc sizes.

That is one Bitchin` Ride...in fact it`s one of the best low-rider models I`ve seen in a while.

In spite of all the setbacks the final outcome looks great. Makes me want to build the one I have in my stash. P.S. By the way the project on my bench right now is also the spawn of Satan with all set backs and mishaps that have occurred...I understand how you feel. :-)

Does anyone know of a source for "Dry Transfer" lettering sheets. You know the type of lettering that you burnished the letters/numbers onto a surface. I did a google search and to my surprise discovered there is very..very..few supplies for it. The ones I did find started at 24 point which is large for 1/25 scale and did not have the smaller 6 point, 8 point, 10 point etc sizes. Additionally, they came only in one font style and only in the color of black. It used to be common to find white, red, yellow, gold and silver along with black and they come in dozen or so font styles.