Aaronw

That looks right up Firemodelman Dave's "the tunnel light king" alley to me. If you are hoping for an original good luck, I've seen a few AAM resin kits on ebay and you will need deep pockets.

That may be but I've never run out of space, I've had it for 6 or 7 years so it is possible on newer accounts they have cut back on the space they provide. Personally I like photobucket better because Fotki gets blocked at work. Not that I ever check this site while working.

I got one last year, but he is an email or sase only operation. I have his pamphlet of stuff around here somewhere with the contact info, I'll post it if I can find it. He also has a '38 Ford COE and '56 Ford COE.

The site isn't set up for hosting photos. You will need to get a photo hosting site, there are several good free sites out there. I've had a free Photobucket account for several years and find it easy to use. Fotki is another popular hosting site. http://photobucket.com/ http://www.fotki.com/us/en/

I haven't had a chance to try mine out yet, but from reading others tips, I think the idea is to run the booth for a few minutes before you paint. This is supposed to suck nearby dust out of the air, providing cleaner air for painting. If you have a cover for the booth like I made for mine you can keep the air flowing with filtered air while the paint cures.

Also the air vent on the side of the hood is wrong, but it is an easy fix. The instructions show three horizontal slots, the should be vertical (up and down). All you have to do is sand off the locating pins then attach the intake the correct way. I also found some expanded metal screen from a fryer spatter guard that I put behind the grill. You can see how the intake should sit, you can also kind of see the screen I used behind the grill and intake. I like the kit, I've got two or three more in the stash to build someday.

Thanks, I have a little experience with old trucks but nothing that old or that big. I would expect lots of stuff is available for 1/2 tons but not sure about the heavier running gear. The big concern for me is the flathead, so it is good to know there is still support for it. The running gear is not as obvious as a motor if it is not original. I still need to decide if I really want to get it, but at least I have a better idea what I'm getting into if I do. I need to start thinking of an excuse for why I need it.

Any idea when the tanker trailers will be avalable? I'll be getting a couple once they arrive.

I'm kind of looking at a '48-50 Ford flatbed (not sure the weight but larger than 1 ton). I ran across one for $500, it needs paint but the rust appears minor and the body is in good shape otherwise. I don't know if it runs or not, I haven't talked to the guy as I'm still in the "is this crazy" mode. I'm wondering what repair / mild restoration of a Ford from this period is like cost and parts availability wise. I'm assuming a flathead V-8 under the hood.

I bought about 5 resin kits from him last year. Great service, not only fast, he also gave me a realistic assessment of the kits so I knew what to expect when they arrived.

Thanks, I'm leaning towards daylight flourescents but I do like the small size and put anywhere aspect of LEDs so if you find that link it would be handy. This is probably a summer long project so I have plenty of time to do more research on lighting.

I'm planning on building a display case for models, and I am looking for lighting ideas. Since photography is very concerned with lighting I though you guys would be good ones to throw ideas at. I'm looking at a case about 2 feet x 4 feet and a display area 2-3 feet high (it will sit on a pedestal to bring the display portion to a comfortable viewing height) with glass full size shelves and large areas of glass on 3 sides. Incandecent lights seem to be the preferred choice for photographing models. I don't really want to use incandecents in the booth because of the heat, halogens are out for the same reason. Many people seem to dislike flourescent lights because of the color shift they can cause. I have used daylight flourescents in the house and office and they have a much more natural color. Flourescent lights are also fairly easy to fit into a booth since they are fairly small and lie across the top. I'm seriously considering going with LED lights since they are small and bright, run cool, last forever and would be easy to locate where ever I want light so I'm not just limited to light from the top. I have no idea what the quality of their light is or the effect on colors. Most that I've seen seem to run more of a blue / white like flourescents not the yellow light of daylight or incandecents. So any suggestions for my lighting?

I thought once the paint was cured acrylics were pretty bullet proof. When weathering armor it is common to use oil paints over acrylics, and acrylic artist paints over enamel since they are different so the thinner used during the weathering process doesn't strip off the base color.

Very nice, I love all the small details like the multi-state tags above the license plate, and other small bits that really make it look like the real thing.

C-600 is a cabover, F-600 is a conventional (motor in front) cab. There was a sleeper for the C600, I think Spalding used to carry one. They were just sort of a square tube that sat up on the back window of the cab, so wouldn't be that hard to make yourself if you can find some decent photos. If Hendrix makes a C600 with a sleeper you might be able to get it through Star Models, he carries some Hendrix resin. http://www.resinrealm.net/Star/STARModels.html You also might try Sourkraut http://www.sourkrautsmodeltrucks.com/

I use Krylon on my models all the time, I've never had a problem with it.

Revell re-issued a '76 Chevy a year or two ago, so it might be easier to find than the Fall Guy truck. AMT's '75 Blazer was also re-issued fairly recently and might work for you. It is hard to believe the '84 GMC has gotten so hard to find. It was one of those kits Walmart always had stacks of for less than $10 just a few years ago. Spalding Trading and Shipping had a nice resin C70 from that period for awhile, but they don't seem to have it anymore.

I don't know about the current one, but 4 or 5 years ago I had a friend who was trying to buy one but they were not available in California. To get one in California a used one had to be bought out of state. Supposedly people were actually buying them new out of state then letting someone else put 7500 miles on them. At that point they would transfer the title back to the actual owner who could then apply for a used car title in California.

Oh I know carbs are out of date but the legend makes the claims for a carburator design. Unfortunately I think diesel falls into the same class as nuclear power, very practical but a bad word for the environmentalists. VW has a diesel that gets better mileage than the hybrids but I bet we won't be able to buy it in California, just like the older diesel VWs which have become sort of a grey market car in this state.

Well I can see a few good things that could come out of this All the secret technology GM supposedly bought and squashed will become available, so we should have the cars that run on water and 100 mpg carburators. It will be interesting to see if they really leave the company alone to design real cars that will sell or if we see the hand of government creating committee / special interest designed abomonations.

If there were more selection in 1/32 or 1/48 I'd probably consider those scales for cars because of display space issues. In addition to cars I build 1/72 aircraft and helicopters, 1/35 armor and 1/700 ships.

I was just recently looking myself. I was all set to buy a Pace booth when I ran across a discussion of paint booths and came to the conclusion all of the affordable commercial hobby booths are under powered. It is recommended that a paint booth have a flow of at least 100 feet per minute at the face (CFM of the fan / square footage of the opening at the face). The Pace Super Mini I was looking at only rates 63 feet per minute, I found most of the others in that price range had similar ratings. As a result I am in the process of making my own, I am nearly finished and it cost me right around $200. There is a nice article about building your own here http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial/23 Mine is 24" wide, 22" deep and 16" tall which seems quite adequate for my needs, I can easily fit a semi truck and most trailers. I can also fit a complete 1/72 B-17, or a B-36 in pieces, cars fit no problem. Supplies I'm using for mine Dayton 485 cfm squirrel cage blower (model 1TDR7) from Grainger for $144 (gives me a feet per minute rating exceeding 150) 8 foot cord added another $6 or so. 4x8 sheet of 3/8" plywood $13 14x20" furnace filter $3 18x24" piece of 3/4" plywood (extra stout to hold up the fan) free, it was a scrap piece. 8x8" piece of 1" pine (to mount the fan), free it was a scrap piece Clamp on light $10 Misc screws, fasteners, glue etc $15 If you don't feel up to making your own, I found the Pace booths look to be as good as anything else out there for the price. BTW if you do build your own I found Grainger's service was awesome. I ordered my fan on Wednesday afternoon, and it was waiting on my porch Thursday when I got home from work.

My family had a Bug when I was really little (it got wrecked when I was about 3), and later a '72 Bus and '76 Rabbit so I have a soft spot for VWs. So from what is shown, how does this compare with the Hasegawa VW van and truck kits? I can't read German, does anyone know what scale that military VW is going to be in? I'm guessing 1/35 but I don't see anything that shows the scale.

I'd suggest looking into Corel Draw, you should be able to find an older version (current is X4), X3 or Corel Draw 12 should be fairly easy to find for $50 or less and will still be perfectly adequate for decals. There is a bit of a learning curve since it is not a pixel based program like MS paint, but once you get the hang of it, you can make much better quality art work. This is a good link that explains a lot of your options with decals. It is focused on ALPS printers but much of it is still useful for inkjet and laser printers. http://www.xs4all.nl/~robdebie/models/decals.htm

Nice job, it reminds me of doing paper drives when I was in boy scouts.