Aaronw

I usually use Plastruct glue, I like it. They have two though, I use the stuff with a white label and orange lettering, I think it is Bondene. I've used other brands of liquid glue though (Testors, Tenax etc) and really don't see much difference between them. I think the main question would be do you usually use liquid glue? If you don't it might take a little getting used to.

That was my general feeling about Lindberg for years, I remember as a kid considering Lindberg as the last choice for a kit. Since getting back into building a few years ago, I've found out that the real issue with Lindberg is knowing what the origin of the kit was. As Mark mentioned Lindberg has inherited kits from a 1/2 dozen or so sources, some good some not. Pyro or Palmer did have a reputaion for piracy and were known by some of the wooden ship kit makers (who were frequently the source for their plastic kits) as the plastic pirates, but that was pre-Lindberg. The later Lindberg kits tooled in the 90's are supposed to be very nice kits, the two kits you mentioned are from that later group. I've actually become a fan of Lindberg, they have been reissuing a lot of their kits. Some are not the greatest but they are unique, kind of like the older AMT & Revell kits.

My guess is that word in an avatar is invisible to the filter because it is part of a photo, not seen as written text.

AITM has very good service, and I have been happy with the ones I've bought. His prices are pretty much in line with other casters. Most of the castings were originally mastered quite some time ago AITM being the 3rd or 4th owner of the product line. Dave has really done a lot of work to clean them up, but they still have fairly thick walls compared to plastic and most lack small interior details like door handles, window cranks etc. If you compare his parts to those sold when it was MTFACO you can see there has been a huge effort taken to improve them. The actual castings are high quality other than the issues I mentioned. You will not find a lot of flash or bubbles on the parts. The exterior detail is good and they can be built into very nice truck models. I would not hesitate to buy anything from AITM, but you have to consider what you expect from a resin kit. It is not going to be like a modern plastic kit in fit or detail. RMR is another resin caster with a nice selection of old trucks. http://www.freewebs.com/rmrresin/

Lindberg has goofed on a couple of their reissues. Their SH3 Sea King and HH-3 Jolly Green Giant Helicopters were listed as 1/48 on the box but are 1/72 inside (good for me because 1/72 is my prefered aircraft scale). 1/20 seems like an odd scale now but it was apparently a scale that was being pushed for awhile. Lindberg has done a few kits in the scale, Tamiya did several race cars in 1/20 and based on that Chuck Wagon kit I think its safe to say AMT did some as well.

The M37 is a Korean war era truck that replaced the "power wagon" in US service after WW2. The Dodge WC 3/4 ton didn't get the Power Wagon name until 1946 but it is basically the same truck, Dodge just made a few changes to make it more attractive to the civilain market. You could probably make an M37 out of a Power Wagon but it would not be an easy modification. There are a few options for the older truck but noting for the M37 in plastic, metal or resin in 1/35 or larger scale which is a huge hole in military kits in my opinion. I have an Ertl Power Wagon, I haven't put a ruler to it, but it sure looks like its 1/24 scale to me, definately a lot bigger than 1/32.

The roll up doors are V-groove sheet, I made the frames from some L channel plastic and some flat strip for the bottom lip, a piece of rod at the bottom made up the handles.

That is actually a fairly easy scratchbuild project. You can use styrene sheet for the sides and top to make a box. Use some large solid square rod in the corners, 0.25 x 0.25 should work. This make the corners solid so you can sand the corners into the round shape you need. An orbital hand sander works well for this part. I picked up a cheap sander for about $15 a year or two ago so you don't have to spend a ton of money and for these kinds of projects it doesn't matter that it is just a cheap tool, it will a long time on lightweight projects like models. You can add the details with styrene strip, 1/2 round, 1/4 round etc I usually make the doors from .010" - .020" sheet. It sticks out just a bit but I've found that the real doors usually do as well, they really are not flush like a car would be. The wheel wells can be done fairly easily by cutting a sheet of plastic to the right size then wrapping it around a bottle or other round object of the approximate size to give it the right curve. You can dip it into hot water or use a hair dryer to help it take the shape if you need to. I built a beverage style truck as a hazmat truck a few years ago using these techniques, it is really not as hard as it looks. The body was all done with Evergreen sheet and strip plastic.

I've done that. I'm very careful now and always try to line up the model with the drawing in the instructions if they is any chance of putting it on wrong. I also build aircraft and there is a special stupid you feel when you realize you just put the right side landing gear on the left wing.

Very nice, I really like the early style Ferraris.

Easy fix, change the year to '09, then the magazine isn't late it is several months early.

That kit has been re-issued a couple of different ways, the one I built (delivery truck) had an automatic. I suppose one of the versions could have been set up with a manual transmission.

I doubt the mileage would be worse than other RVs, particularly with a Cat 3208. I'm not really an RV guy but something like this would be more my speed.

Yeah, kind of figured, I've never really looked into it, but the big 3 get blamed for a lot of failures. If they were so good at crushing technology and stiffling competition the last 30 years would have gone much better for them. The movie does have some great scenes of Tuckers though and it still makes a good story even if not accurate.

Megahobby is good to deal with, I've used them several times. Tower usually has better prices (by about $1 or 2) but Megahobby carries several brands Tower doesn't, and I have found some items cheaper at Megahobby. Tower is super fast but its a short trip since a lot of my orders come out of Nevada. Megahobby is on the east coast (NY?) but I still get my order in a week or so. I would not hesitate to order from either of them.

That is not really unusual for a diecast from the better companies. Yatming does a lot of nice diecast cars and trucks and are definately on the cheaper side, but still run around $50. Take a look at some like Danbury Mint and Franklin Mint, nice stuff but $100 is a decent price for many. The Tucker is very unusual and 1/18 so its not going to be cheap. $98 is only expensive if you are looking at the low end diecast from Motormax, Maisto and such which are questionable in scale (1/22 thorough 1/28 although claiming 1/24) and detail. Since it sounds like you never heard of the Tucker you might be interested to know they made a movie with Jeff Bridges about 15 years ago, called Tucker, which was about the man and his attempt to build a car to challenge the big 3. I don't know how accurate it really was but it was entertaining and you do get to see several of the real cars in the movie (less than 50 were built as I recall, around 40 still exist).

Tim built one last year, but the pics are not in the post anymore. Steve G posted some pics of the upcoming releases from Lindberg, you can see the tank trailer being pulled by a Dodge L700. As I understand it the kit is designed to allow it to be built as a trailer or on a truck. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15130

Oh, I guess there is, I didn't expect that. I do know there are some supposedly 1/24-1/25 scale diecast tankers similar to the IH in your link. One of those might work for the tanker part. Is this to convert an F350 into a heavier truck? If so I've been looking for a conversion for a 70's F600, can you provide any info on this?

I figured someone would know. I knew it wouldn't be a direct relation but though it might have shared some features. I did know what the 1710 stood for, that was pretty typical of WW2 era aircraft motors (P&W R-2800 for example, radial engine, 2800 cubic inches) however I didn't rally think to compare it to any truck motors, yes that is a big'un equal in displacement to about 3 Detroit Diesel 8V71s Thanks, I guess the big car motors from the 30's would be a better place to be looking.

Lindberg is supposed to be re-issuing the old IMC(?) Milk tanker sometime in 2009. The link in the first post goes to a photo of the Billy Carter pickup, I assume that is wrong since it is nt a Shell tanker.

I'm wondering if the Allison V-12 in the parts pack would be of any value for building one of the 30-40's truck V-12s, Hall-Scott, Waukasha (sp?), Seagrave, American LaFrance etc? I know it was an aircraft engine but wondering if it has anything in common with the big truck motors of the period other than being a big V-12.

It does look a little more like the original 240Z, but a bit bubble like. Its not a bad looking car though. I'd like to see them give the Z a full retro treatment, I'd like to see Jaguar do the same with the E-type. I like the long nosed look of those two, that style just seemed to say its all about the motor.

No soup for you, NEXT! I agree with Mark, this is by far the most active part of the forum, and I don't think anyone will beat you for posting a question here. Of course that Gregg is a mean guy so you never know.

I don't remember having a problem with the glass either, but I ended up glueing the hood shut because I couldn't get it to sit right when built so it could open. The box art on the one I built had a light blue cab and a van style delivery body.

There is a guy on ebay that frequently has a similar vintage resin Chevy crewcab for sale, usually goes for $40-50.