Mike Kucaba

That's TWO really sharp stock builds of this car I've seen today!!

The DSC for sure. I usually sponsor a class trophy and will again. I'm scheduled to work on 17th. I'll try and re-schedule that .

My efforts are focused like a laser site.... 559 projects started,none finished

It's a 400 table swap meet.

Good idea to use the fairlane and ranchero to solve the short door problem. Might have to try that! So what happened to the two models?

Will your booth be near a window? You can always make a wood,metal,or plastic plug with a vent hookup.When you want to spray,or use the booth,open the window,isert the pluga nd close the window on it and hook up the hose.

I will be at the T.M.A.C. show in Tucson, AZ on 3/4. I will have models,aftermarket and the usual stuff. Mike Kucaba

Very nice work. The car looks like it was purposely built to race!!

If it is the '64 car it's pushbutton.

Fantastic! Ya' know,everytime I'm at Hobby Lobby and I geek out at all the non-modeling stuff I get the funniest looks.....

I've found Thumb tacks and upholstery tacks in different sizes that work for Baby Moons,and beading threading needles that would make a great chute pull ring. Anymore?

Modelhaus has some that were used on early Stage wedge 413 & 426.

Does anyone clean the tires as religiously as the plastic/resin bodies. I'm wondering if maybe soaking the tires in Super Clean or some cleaner would remove some foreign matter. As an aside,I have a metal foil tape I think I'll try as a test.

Clear lines would probably be fishing line(monofilament?) It may even come in colors,or maybe the clear could be tinted using a sharpie marker.

Well then I'll repeat it again. I have used Super Clean or Purple power on resin with out any ill effects.And yes I used it on all the Flintsone resins I have and that's a bunch.

They called "round to it" and I'll get one when I get .... Seriously use the hot water trick and wipe off the threads.

Just curious,but what would be the actual red color for this. And I don't use this tip often,but the really best stuff for getting a tight line between colors is Bare metal foil. And I use to work for 3M and their best tape doesn't works well,but is cheaper.

Well I see some BOOGERS in that! Let's start at the beginning. Have you(did you?) wash the body before doing any sanding ? I usually go over all the bare plastic with a small wad of 0000 steel wool.Then wash the body again and check it. You may now see any mold lines that the SW abrading didn't get. Now concentrate on those,and check for any sink marks. Blocking refers to sanding with the paper or cloth backed by a flat block of something suitable.I actually find ordinary erasers work well until they get too hard.HTH

Interesting. I have this kit and popped for the PE set also.Formula 1 is somewhat foreign to me so I'll keep up on this.

"Now if I could just get modelhaus to answer my e-mail about tires and wheels" You could always use photo-etch wires and aluminum rims, and tires shouldn't be that hard to source.

Nice work all around! If it is at all possible, try and get it cast.

Depending on the clarity & thickness,I'll sand,polish and dip in future.

It's a cloth saturated with a sticky rosin type stuff. You gently rub on the car body and it removes dust and other crud before painting. I see them at Hobby lobby under testors label,or you can go to a auto body supply and get them there. They are too large for model cars,so I open the package and open them up and cut them to a more manageable size. You don't rub hard ,just gently and there is no need to wash the body after,just shoot the paint.

Let the paint really cure,Use the sniff test, And then sand &/or polish out the specks and reshoot. Don't forget to wash off the body and when dry,use a tack rag right before painting.

I got quite a good deal on Plasti kote primer # 466.It says spot primer on the can,but lays down just like the T235.