niteowl7710

I'm not happy to see the prices climb, but in reality I work reasonably close (1 tank of gas a week) to work. I'm fortunate that my job is high-paying, in a growing industry. I know many here are unemployed, or on a fixed income (which has effected my parents in recent years) and so any spike in fuel costs which effect the price of everything can be damaging. I have to say the many years I spent paying off every penny if debt I had (other than my current mortgage) was a little pain and "suffering" back then for the ability to do what I want, where I want now was well with the effort now.

No they are the same kits, except 10lbs of Ferrari shoved in a 5lb sack. Their kits really are designed to fit in those long, thin boxes, and to get them in our North American specific boxes they have to really wedge 'em in there. This can lead to warped bodies, and especially chassis plates. The Revell USA re-boxes also include re-drawn, bi-fold directions (Revell AG directions are large 8 x 11 sheets like Japanese kits without the fold, and usually an American license plate our two added to the variety if European plates. They cost more money initially, but they are also released a few months before we get the North American re-box. Also for some kits like the SLS AMG, 2CV Charleston, and London Routemaster bus you either but the AG kit or you go without.

The 1960 Corvette is an old multi-piece body tooling from back in the day, and doesn't anything to do with/shares no parts with the "new" tool '58/'59.

It was my understanding that they acquired the old stock of this kit, and are re-boxing the kits with the Revell label on them, as opposed to running another series of the kit.

Yes it does.

If you don't have a bunch of dust and junk in the paint, I'd start at 6,000 or maybe even 8,000 (if you have one of the old.school Micro-Mesh kits that included that in-between grit. You always want to start at the highest number possible, as you can always drop down a grit if necessary, but once you cut through the paint accidentally from starting too low...well... You can't use too much water, but you can use too little. Every so often dry the part off to check your progress. Make sure you alternate directions with each grit (aka back & forth, then up & down), or you'll just wind up with a lot of scratches facing the same direction. Pressure is a learned skill, and there's really no way to describe it other than "as light as possible to get the job done". Remember you're not block sanding a plank of wood.

Probably to early to tell with my work, but it's probably 60/40 that I'll go. I've never managed to get out there before when I was traveling extensively with my job as my daughter's birthday is two weeks beforehand and I doubt I would have stayed married if I missed that for a model car show!

My haul from the SHMA show in Pittsburgh today.

I'll be sticking my head in first thing in the morning. I don't have anything quite ready (maybe the IPMS show in 2 weeks...), and in any event I can't spare the night off work if I were going to come in after working all night, and then work the next night...I would fall asleep at some point. But a couple of hours of catching up with friends and seeing what deals can be dealt

I know this will sound odd, but I loathe the idea of cleaning up the kit. Sanding molding lines, cleaning up seams, injector marks, sink marks, etc. I absolutely can't stand the idea of doing all of that. Now I can do it all, and it's never as bad as I think it will be, but the idea of having to sit down and do it causes me...well to not sit down and do it. Then when I actually get the gumption up it turns into one of those "Why did I put this off so long?" things.

The track wasn't wet in the first place, the jet dryers were just out using the vented jet exhaust to blow the debris and built up rubber down the track. Why does everyone who wasn't watching the race, and are clearly too lazy to actually search out and watch a replay feel the need to constantly spout forth their opinions on this incident in both of these threads involving this discussion?

What difference does it make what color you paint it? Box Stock is about building it strictly from the parts that come in the box, it has nothing to do with what color you paint the model.

There's been plenty of posting going...why in the past 24-36 hours - I've re-learned what the NNL stands for, for the 10,000th time - Found out what it means when a forum topic is locked - Watched as people's apologies were questioned in sincerity and purpose - Saw people's real names and identities investigated by crack forum pot stirrers - Witnessed a former moderator break 2 of the 4 rules here and not get banned - Saw a topic with "?" as a title to find out it was disappointingly NOT a missive from the Riddler to Batman but rather how to ship a "life size" bench seat through Craigslist. - Celebrated Virgil's ability to post more in 90 days than the rest of us combined will in our lifetimes - Pondered how much I should bill Gregg if I'm going to shill to get MCM onto newsstands, since that seems to be the job of...well Gregg and/or Golden Bell With this much top notch, high quality, edge of your seat entertainment going on, who has time to build anything, let alone post about it?

They didn't take anything away from you, this is a 25+ year old tool, and for better or worse molding the rear suspension with the exhaust is just how things were done back then. A majority of these 60ish part 1:24 Monogram tools from the 80's "suffer" from the same type of design.

No the Tom Daniel BAD MEDICINE kit is what is being reissued in May (or April depending on your LHS's ability to be on the Preferred Retailer list). There's is no mention from Revell now or anytime this release platform about the Medicine Man kit coming back out. The kit was brought up in this thread as to which kit it was vs. Bad Medicine, but it is not in the catalog, nor forthcoming in the First Half of 2012. Come June when the Late Summer/Fall update release platform is announced, who knows. Revell has been on a tear over the past few years reissuing almost every single Tom Daniel's tool they still can find all the molds to at this rate.

I don't know how the current reissue's instruction manual reads, but the older version's (I have the SSP release from the early 90's) instructions has a blurb about doing just that (removing the "B" pillar) before the first step, to turn it into the hardtop. But you also have to file/sand off the side window trim.

I'm in the same boat Tim, except that I have to leave my house by 5:30pm to be in for my 6p-6a shift. Usually I get delusions of grandeur of all the work I will get done on project xyz as soon as I get home. But as I've told others my motivation tends to exit my spirit about the same time my front tires hit my driveway. We work a vague 4 days on, 2 days off schedule, but that tends to get thrown out the window on most jobs as things breakdown, or need to be rescheduled. Those 4/2's rotate so there's no defined days off (although we know our "schedule" for a month in advance). What Donn says about "forcing" yourself to hit the bench is true. I try to at least clean-up, paint, or glue SOMETHING every morning when I get home, even if it means I'm only at the bench for 15-20 minutes. Because I know if I pass the hobby area in my basement on the way up to the main floor of the house in the morning, there's a 98% chance I will not go back down. I love and value my sleep, and I like to get 8 hours a "night" (day for you non-vampire folk), so getting up early to work never happens, and if I stay up late (to the ungodly hour of say 11am!!) it's because I'm out of the house running actual errands. The biggest problem I have is getting major components spray painted. We've had a number of "warm enough" days here in PA this winter (looks to be another one today), but I also don't see the sun even on my days off because I am sleeping. Investing in a paint booth would of course fix that to a certain extent, but that involves spending money I don't necessary believe in the entire "shift work disorder" depression thing. I enjoy working nights, I requested to work them in fact. If anything I suffer from exhaustion! There was a span before Christmas where my crew and I worked 19 days straight without a day off.

If you look closely there's actually TWO engines in there. One the original equipment, and one a more modern "enviromentally conscious" retrofit.

I mean I was fairly "annoyed" with how long it took to get the '10 Camaro SS kit out. It was announced prior to iHobby at the NNL in 2010, so by the time it finally fell out of the sky about 15-20 days ago, it was also 15 months from it's announced date. But I never thought it had been canceled, or Revell wasn't going to release it. Now it's downstairs tossed onto the pile of everything else I "HAD" to have, and couldn't wait to see I think part of the problem is too many people know too many people who can get them the Quarterly "Preferred Supplier" Release list, which allows that foggy 3-4 month look into the future. Otherwise you wouldn't know what to expect from Revell other than what they announce as new releases on their website the first Monday of the new Month on their website.

Yes they did. Revell had test shots of their ill-fated diecast based 80's Olds Cutlass. Ever since then there seems to be immense concern when Revell doesn't announce 6 months in advance when new tooling kits are going to be released. Nevermind it's only been 4 months since iHobby, they aren't on the 1st quarter schedule....PANIC PANIC PANIC! Tower Hobbies is listing the Moebius C 300 for late June, that will put it out 15 months after it's original release date, and nearly 2 years after it was announced, yet I don't see where people are gathered with pitchforks and torches (i imagine because they've been reasonably transparent along the way). There was a bunch of "Revell is evil and isn't ever going to release it" drama around the '48 Ford when it got delayed, that ended up being much ado about nothing. There aren't even any known delays with these three new tools, but they aren't coming out fast enough. GATHER THE MOB! Most everyone here (myself included) could wait 50 years for this round of models to be released and never run out of styrene. Take a breath, step away from the ledges...

Well in that case I insist you go march your moderating powers over to the On the Workbench and Under Glass sections and promptly move every single thread for the entire 6 year history of this forum that is a truck, car-truck, SUV, or something cross-wise like that 4x4 Corvette "SUV" and put them where they belong immediately. Then promptly suspend or ban everyone involved for not being able to read and follow the rules. Oooor get some ice, and some nicely aged single malt, and go over in the corner and apply liberally until you relax sufficiently to stop yelling at the membership. The truck section was asked for by people who build trucks...ya know vroom-vroom diesel things with more than 4 wheels. I seriously doubt there are enough people here specifically building pick-ups, no matter how popular the lowrider/bagged trend is/was to justify the creation of a specific Truck section for them.

I have to say the couple bucks that a sprue cutter costs is worth the investment, both from an ease and safety standpoint. Cutting things off the sprue with an X-Acto tends to either send them flying, gouge them, or shatter the blade/knock the point off. I like the "scissors" aspect of how sprue cutters work. I sorta ho-hummed the idea for years, then found a set at Hobby Lobby and with a 40% coupon they were like $2. Now it's one of those "Why did I wait all this time to buy these?!?!?!?!" moments.

The key with DupliColor primer is to mist on the first 2-3 coats to get a complete coat down over the entire model before putting down one "wet" coat. At 10 minute flash times between coats, it doesn't really take that long. When it comes to painting after proper prep, not rushing is the next most important thing.

Correct, just mauled and manhandled into one of the boxes we insist on using here in the States. It also costs us a few bucks less for the kit...$21 vs. $26+ for the Revell AG version. Although my LHS has two of the VW Samba "Bus" van kits, and the Revell AG version is $5 LESS than the "North American" version. I think that might have something to do with how long the AG version has been languishing in inventory.

My kit also had all of the Spyder specific parts just laying on top of the "shared" (new tool, but some of the parts are the same) parts unwrapped. This isn't the first Revell AG rebox into Revell North America fiasco either. My Ferrari Italia had a warped parts tree that included such needed to be flat parts like the chassis pan and engine/firewall insert. I think I'm just gonna start paying the extra couple of bucks for the "long import box", as these kits clearly don't fit into our boxes without crush and warping issues. Things like the Trabant 601S, SLS AMG and Citroen 2CV Charleston that can only come via the long box have all been packed well, and demage free.