ian ashton

My dad just called to inform me that the White on Red '70 Hemi Cuda convert that was at our Chicago show (same guy owns the black '70 that I'm building in WIP section) sold for $1.55mm at Russo. I guess the owner didn't really want to sell, but the reserve was $1.4mm, so that must have been a worth while sale for him. He also has a '71 Hemi convert and a few Challengers, Hemi and 440 convertible cars. My guess selling this opens the door for the purchase of somethig equally as cool.

I've never seen that kit open, but if you are going for stock I'd use te Revell '68 or '69 Charger for just about everything but the body, those kits have great detail, and I'm sure the interiors are close enough, being a hardtop it would be hard to tell.

This project is rapidly getting much more involved than I had initially planned; I'm glad I started with this stuff now, and not after I started painting stuff, haha. The more I steal parts from the Revell Chargers, the more I like 'em! I've decided to use the 440 from the '68 Charger, along with several other parts, because the detail is just so nice. Because the Revell Charger engine is not a 6 pack, I am using the AMT Challenger intake, to make it work with the windage tray (or whatever that piece is called under the intake) I had to trim quite a bit of material away; Engine shaping up: On the left, the AMT Challenger fron suspension, and on the right the Revell Charger suspension. Same size, different detail: AMT always drops the ball with their Mopar upper control arms, so I decided to use the Revell parts there as well. Here is a comparisson: Test fitting the suspension pieces: You can also see in this pic how I opened up the K member Upper control arms installed: I needed that piece of the chassis for my Challenger build, so I replaced what I cut out with Evergreen, works perfect, and you can't really see it when the K member is installed. I also got the AMT Challenger cowel installed: The exhaust tips are going to be a bit of a P.I.T.A. so I figured I should get cracking on them. I am using the Challenger pipes and tips for now, but will end up changing out the tips to something AL during final assembly. To start, I dry built everything and marked where the cuts were needed for the tips: Very roughly cut, I've got a lot of sanding to do. The tips will sit nearly flush with the top edge of the cut, I just didn't have enough hands to hold them in place for the picture. I still need to sand them so they are straight. Once thats done I'll use Evergreen to fill in the area under the exhaust tips, as the real car has them fully surrounded:

There were 50 built as COPO cars, which were 396 automatics, and all 50 were ordered by Gibb Chevrolet in LaHarp IL.

Yea, I agree about '70 vs. '71 I love Mopar convertibles, and with models I especially like drop tops, because you can see interior details mug better.

Factory Super Stock Darts came with radiused wheel wells.

It's nearly invisible. I only have inside pics of the car, and just about everyone you can barely see the stripe, making it that much cooler, in my opinion.

Like everyone else, I like it a ton! Are those emblems photo etch, or something else? They look phenomenal!

"some tachs" like more than one?

Looks like you've got a great start, and your inspiration car is killer. I believe I have a magazine with the same car, which I used for reference in my build.

There is a ton of BS going on with Barrett dropping the hammer on cars too soon and screwing people on run times. Russo is where the REAL buyers and sellers are going. Barrett is a circus, more for goofball stuff. Russo has a TON of high end muscle this year.

Man, that manifold is huuuuuge. I'd love to cast them, but I don't have the skills it would take to master. I'm more than willing to trade castings for master-work, any takers???

Will do! We also post scanned copies of show coverage online here: http://www.mcacn.com/Media.htm

My Scale Dreams order arrived today (talk about fast, I just ordered it Wednesday at like midnight!) The Model Car Garage detail kit looks like it will work perfectly, despite the difference in scale. I can't wait to dive into some of the PE details, they make such nice stuff! I also ordered a package of Detail Master muffler clamps and I they are KILLER! I was previously using MAS photo etched muffler clamps but they were a nightmare to work with, as they didn't have the 'indent' where the fold is needed, making them very hard to work with. The Detail Master units have that, and are also a little less bulky, AND include hangers and bolts - score! Anyone want to buy some MAS muffler clamps, I have 3 different sizes, and will not use them, lol...

Yes! I had planned to do this, even made a thread in the Wanted section, lol. I'll probably swing by LHS and see if they have one in the next few days.

There were no COPO 1969s at all. There were 50 COPO (9738) Novas ordered in 1968 by Fred Gibb, all were 396 from GM with a few swapped to 427 with/by Dick Harrell. Yenko built Novas in 1969 (both 396 and 527) but they weren't COPO cars. The 1970 Yenko Deuce was COPO (9010) and they were 350s. So, to call it a COPO it should be a '68 or a '70. If it's a '69 call it a Yenko - wait, didn't they try that? lol

My dad flew down yesterday. Russo is running some incredible cars too - I got to drive te white hemi cuda convert in all the ads.

At least they are trying! I'll take what we can get!

Great looking build! Its like te reverse of what I'm doing. I'd love to snag an annual, watching the Challengers on eBay right now...

I'm all about the illusion of it; the stamping details of the Challenger chassis are close enough for me

The AMT 1971 Charger has a very similar chassis to the following AMT kits: 1968 Road Runner 1969 GTX 1969 GTX Convertible 1970 Cornet / Super Bee The main difference being the gas tanks. AMT '68-70 B Body Chassis, AMT '71 Charger Chassis, AMT '70 Challenger Chassis (already shortened for the Cuda) Note: the chassis on the left has been modified for another project I'm working on, it was just easiest to find at the moment. The trans tunnel was cut out, and sheet styrene was added to the back. So, using the Johan body the easiest solution was to go with the AMT '70 Challenger chassis, as it has the most detail and least amount of modification required, being that they are both E-bodies, just different wheelbases. The Charger chassis is a little too wide at the back, too long at the back, and too long in the center. The gas tank situation would be a PITA. I understand what you are saying about mechanically, for that matter the running gear for all 68-74 B and E bodies are similar.

Really? The 71 Charger chassis is almost the same as the other AMT b bodies, it seems like it would be pretty large.

This I know - I just don't care much for 1/24, I wanted to do 1/25. Also, I'm not a bog fan of the older RM 1/24 e body tools, kinda cheesy. Thanks for the advice though!

With my Challenger convertible finished up I'm ready to go full swing into the Cuda project. I've given up on converting the grille myself, and as luck would have it my Reliable Resin pieces showed up yesterday. The accuracy with respect to the 1:1 scale is great, there was a lot of flash, sanding, and trimming required - more than I'd expect given the cost, but whatever, they are still very nice pieces. I'm not sure if I'll use their hood and SHAKER, or if I'll continue with making my own - the hood is like .125" too wide, not a big deal - I'll probably work both pieces and use whichever looks best in paint. The Reliable parts (I started trimming the hood before I took this pic): Test fit of the hood, a little narrowing to be done, not too bad though: Getting the grille to fit just right is a bit of a process, as it required the removal of a lot of material from the body. Sand, fit, sand, fit, sand, fit, lol; Same thing with the tail panel - the joys of doing conversions! Giving a test fit with the lower valence and bumper - note, this bumper is warped, I've got another that I'll use for the final build: Front lower valence installed, ready for some filling and lots more sanding: (The gap looks weird, but its an optical illusion, its pretty symetrical) Last night I ordered the Model Car Garage photo etched detail kit (actuall 1:24 scale for the RM '71 kits) from Scale Dreams, I figure its worth checking out, I can probably use the hood pins, door handles, PE emblems, and some of the other goodies. If not no big loss.

Sorry for the slow reply, hectic day with with work yesterday. At any rate, this is how I make 2 piece molds (I thought I had more pictures, but they are now lost) Lay tape flat (sticky side up) on your working surface giving you a decent amount or room around where your part will go. Then, place your part in the center, face up. Next, build your mold box around the part. I just fold cardboard, place it on the tape, then fold the tape edges up onto the side walls. I'll add a little more tape to prevent leaks, then I'm ready to pour the silicone; When the silicone dries flip the box over and peel off the tape - this should leave your part in the mold, with an exposed bottom, and the rest of your mold. Next, tape more cardboard onto the sidewalls, essentially making the mold now go in the other direction. Paint on your mold release, let it dry, then pour your second half. Once the second part of the mold is dry peel off the cardboard side walls and carefully seperate your molds. I wouldn't worry about putting any 'ports' into the mold, I'd just pour and 'squish' the top of the mold on, as its likely that you won't need any additional resin for the details on the backside, you just need the mold there to form the details. That is exactly how I make the hoods - it took me a few tries to get the casting process right, but now I've got it down to a science.