Bren

Thanks Hakan - I have that schematic too. I actually need to know where the airline physically runs - is it visible below the trailer floor and if so - where is it? Off to the side, down the middle etc….. thanks, Bren

I'm doing this build right now - basically box stock with different wheels/tires. Could any of you gentlemen enlighten me on the routing of the air brake lines under the floor of the trailers? I've searched the interwebs but can't find any reference photos to help. Thanks! Bren

Hey Dys, Brian has the right idea - JUST DO IT! You won't be sorry and there's TONS of cool stuff out there - stuff you can't even buy in the aftermarket. I'm sad that guys are complaining about there being no new truck kits out there, when you can 3D print just about anything you might want to build! Here's what I think you need to know. Any brand of resin printer will work (not filament (FDM) - that's for bigger stuff and generally gives unsatisfactory results for our type of 1/24 or 1/25 scale models, except in expert hands) . I use Elegoo brand and have found them pretty reliable - for model trucks you will want the Saturn if you can afford it (about 500 dollars Canadian) - I use the Saturn 3 Ultra. Mars Pro would be okay - just a bit small - I use that one too. Definitely go for water washable resin - it's a tad brittle, but the not needing to use isopropyl alcohol is a huge plus - and it doesn't smell as much. I use Elegoo brand resin and have been happy. I haven't been impressed with Anycubic brand printers - I have a Mono 5S too - and they originally sent it out with a non-functional auto-leveling system that had to be corrected later with a modified build plate - at my expense. Zero customer service. Not impressed. Brian mentioned two other things you definitely want - one is a cleaning station, the other is a UV curing station - neither is too expensive. I use the Anycubic Wash and Cure station ($179 Canadian), but don't use the wash function - for that I have found an ultrasonic cleaner works best. This is the one I use: https://phrozen3d.com/products/ultra-sonic-cleaner. ($101 US). You asked if I use a particular type of slicer (the program that translates 3D file, with the .stl suffix to the correct language for your particular printer). Brian uses Lychee - which has a good reputation. I've never used it. I use Chitubox - which comes with all Elegoo printers. I love Chitubox - very intuitive, easy to use. It generates supports very well, and they come away post-printing easily. I tried the Anycubic Photon Workshop slicer which came with my Mono5S - horrible slicer. The supports wrecked most of my prints. Not recommended. So yeah - most printers come with free slicer programs bundled in - and I haven't seen the need to purchase the pro versions. Where to find the files? That was my main purpose in starting the thread - to show you there are a ton of awesome files out there for truck modelers. All the ones above came from Cults - https://cults3d.com/en . Joining is free. I have found literally thousands of files - you can go to my profile - my screen name is 'Heavyhaul' , and I've made all my downloads public for viewing (https://cults3d.com/en/users/Heavyhaul/downloads ) - so you can peruse the hundreds I've downloaded and click on them if they interest you - many are free. Brian mentioned a designer he likes - you are free to 'follow' any designer you like, and will get email updates when they publish new stuff. I recommend a guy named Alfa Centauri - he does high quality truck files - often 30 or 40 files to a truck. Warning - there's a lot of poor quality files out there. Most designers are NOT scale model builders - and it shows. They publish their model as one lump of a truck - not separate parts - and the details are sketchy at best. Beware of 'content factory' publishers who have thousands of files on display - one for every vehicle ever made. They are usually toy-like at best. You'll learn which designers you can trust. You'll learn what you can get away with in terms of resizing - many truck files are published in 1/14 scale for the RC crowd - these generally scale to 1/25 no problem (set your slicer scale to 56%). Be aware that as you scale down, thin parts get thinner. Some of the 1/14 scale steering wheels are pretty skinny in 1/25! Likewise, scaling up from 1/32 (set your slicer scale to 128%) is doable - but walls start getting pretty thick. Those are the practical limits I've found for detailed parts. Simple shapes scale up or down easier. Brian mentioned Blender to customize a file - that's a step up in complexity - you can use editing programs to slice parts or or change things you want changed. I'm not an expert at that - I've just done simple moves like cutting prints in half that were too big - nothing complex. You don't need to know anything about that to start. How do I learn? Youtube has some great beginner videos. This site has literally thousands of 'how-to' articles - and trouble shooting guides - https://all3dp.com/ , check it out. The main thing is DON'T GET DISCOURAGED! You will have failed prints to start - typical problems are prints not sticking to the build plate, partly formed or distorted prints, failing to print at all. There are tricks to learn, just like model building. How you angle your print in the slicer (I like tilting about 20-30 degrees from the horizontal), how you select your supports (the autosupport function works really well in Chitubox), how you set up your print - (I like to space it about 2-5mm above the build plate) etc. all have an effect on the final product. Start with something simple like a tire file. And don't hesitate to ask. If you're running into a problem - post it or DM me - if I can't help somebody else on here surely can. Happy printing! Bren

I appreciate them, and they show this build is on another level! I don’t think I’d have the guts to show that level of detail on one of my builds! ?.You hit this one out of the park Robert! The details and workmanship are amazing.

Thanks so much Juergen - the build is looking great. I want to know how difficult it is to edit 3D files. As an example - there are many good tire files but they usually have no sidewall detail - and I want to add that. Could I edit them to add manufacturer logos and the usual information on 1:1 sidewalls?

I believe - though I may stand corrected - that a lot of their stuff is 3D printed from cults3D website - a designer named Alfa centauri. I printed a bunch of his files and they are generally excellent. The only reason for noting this is you may want to invest in printing them yourself - more flexibility that way - although I totally get that not everyone is into that. If you want to follow the thread between myself and Roninutah- I just printed the Cascadia for him in 1/25. I posted some pictures of the print. He’ll be posting as he does the build.

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I've been following the build - you have some great scratch-building chops - and it looks like you licked the roof issue. Just for your interest here's the F700 I printed last week - angled the body - no roof sag issues. If you want one just let me know....

Oh you're one of those guys eh?? Q. What kind of truck to you drive Mister? A. A Motel 6! Okey doke - check out the 60 inch hi-rise sleeper parts I printed today below. I'll keep the daycab for my build and send ya the sleeper. I'm leaving the supports in place for the dash so the steering wheel survives the postal service. This thing sure is a beast - thank heavens for the Elegoo Saturn printer - the larger prints wouldn't fit on my Mars.

Wow! That is a tour-de-force. Beautiful craftsmanship Tom. I always look at the mirror supports and window gaskets - they are the trickiest to make look right - as well as understated weathering - and you nailed them all. I echo the earlier observation - that interior is just amazing. Full marks on this one!

RoninUtah was interested in the Cascadia - so I printed out the files (not quite finished yet). I think there's a bit of interest in this model, so I thought I'd post the first shots of it taped together in case the rest of you guys wanted to see. This is from Alfa Centauri on Cults3D website. The file is 1/14, reduced in the slicer to 1/25 (56%).

I getcha! I’m on the other side of the retirement thing. Anyways - when I get to the bench next week I’m going to print the Mack on my larger anycubic mono printer which means I should be able to angle it and avoid some of the challenges you are having. If it works I’ll send you some pix and if you’d like me to send you a copy I can do that, no charge.

This build is a workshop in understated super-realistic weathering. As has been said you rocked the underside of the cab - an area often overlooked. I totally get the fretting over the grill detail - we all do that - something nobody else even notices drives us nuts! Congratulations on a masterful execution of a great subject.

Wow! Some great CAD skills there! Maybe you can post some hints or direction on where to go so we can learn to do some of this?

I’ve had a chance to look at your photographs in more detail - here are some additional observations. I believe your print IS Alfa-centauris’ Mack 700 file from Cults.com. Originally he published it in 1/32 - it can scale up to 1/25 no problem but that makes the walls kind of thick - like you are seeing. It appears the body was printed flat based on the layer lines of the cab roof - which makes the lines more visible and is prone to sinking. - as your copy did. Parts should usually be tilted at about 20 degrees to minimize lines like this. I also question the resolution of the printer- the dash details appear a tad fuzzy - they should be crisper - this should be printed at a resolution of .05 mm at a minimum. I’ll try printing this file and post my results to see what I can achieve.

I love the look of old school Diamond Reos - you’ve done a really nice job here Randy. The small touches like your clean window gasket painting really make it pop. Well done!

Very nice build. Thanks for sharing your challenges - it gives us all great ideas. You have some impressive skills there my friend!

I do a fair amount of 3D printing - but don’t hold myself out as an expert (I’ve posted my prints under the 3D aftermarket section here). Here are my suggestions. Firstly - for what aftermarket suppliers often charge for their stuff I’d consider investing in my own printer - they are much more affordable these days - then you have complete control over resin type and curing. One thing often overlooked is thick parts containing uncured resin inside - this will “split” or curl your part. Simple fix - hollow the part in your slicer software, and leave a drain hole. Next, there are a few “non-negotiables” - an ultrasonic cleaner is a must - remove ALL uncured resin. The other must is a UV curing station, 2-4 minutes works for most 1/25 scale parts. Then place any thin parts under weight to completely cure - I use 123 blocks - and leave them 1-3 days. I use Elegoo water-soluble grey resin for model parts - a bit brittle but overall a good choice. I suspect your supplier is not curing properly - and may be in a different humidity climate than yours. Last thing - if you’re a Mack fan check out Alfa-Centauri on the Cults website. He’s got a great assortment of Mack’s with interiors - l’ve printed them without problem. Most are 1/14 and scale easily to 1/25. Hope this helps.

Wow! This is scratch building at its finest. My hat is off to you. Terrific work. Following with interest…

Both are available as .stl files for 3D printing if you're into that - or want to get them printed by someone else. Here's the Cascadia. And below it the Coronado. I've printed the Coronado in 1/25 - looks great.

Here are some other prints I've used. Glad hands, air horns, flapper valves, pipe bends, mud flap hangers - you name it, there are files of all of them. Many are free, some are a few bucks. My Diamond Reo, in the completed build section of the forum uses a lot of these, if you want to see the "finished product" (couple of photos below). There are tons of cool things to use for cargo - pallets, tiedowns, construction equipment, pipes, cranes - you name it. Most of these I haven't even seen in the after-market. And for those of you who want to tweak the dimensions - 3D printing is super-easy - your slicer software can scale up or down by fractions of a millimeter. I adjusted all of these to the exact dimensions I needed - simple as 1 mouse click. No 'tech-geek' wizardry required. So there you have it. I'm happy to answer any questions - within my own limited skill set. I stress again - if I can do it - you can do it! I hope this gives you some ideas for your builds. And remember - even if you don't want to print, you can get files printed by any number of online printing services (though they aren't cheap). Happy building guys - thanks for looking!

Okay - cool bodies - but how about parts? Well - this is where 3D printing comes into its own. I have collected a binder of thousands of 1/25 scale parts - an amazing resource for my scratch building. Just about anything you can think of is here. 2 hole Buds? - yup. Accurate sidewall truck tires? - yup. Now you can print footwear for dozens of Michigan trailers for pennies (well - a few bucks) - honest! This is from my trailer build I'm doing now.

Prefer old classics? - here's two. A monster of an HDX logger, and a vintage Hayes cabover (forgive the quality of the cabover - I printed it flat as it was too big for my printer - I have a bigger printer now so I'll re-pop it.) The grey grill on the HDX shows one of the challenges of resin - it can warp while curing - I reprinted leaving the supports in place and cured it like that - problem solved. Note the headlight guard snapped off the grey one - water soluble resin is rather brittle - handle with care!

Below are my prints of a Peterbilt 386 in 1/25 scale. Want models of new, modern trucks? There's lots! This is only a partial print of the files - not shown are 'glass' , fuel tanks, bumpers, air filters etc. Requires engine and frame/running gear donor. Time to print about 5 hours - cost five dollars in resin.

I have been reading the posts for a while here (always a wise idea before opening one's big mouth and inserting foot!). I'm not sure this thread goes here or in WIP - but here seems more appropriate. I want to make clear I'm not selling anything - and this isn't an after-market pitch - just some observations about 3D printing and our hobby. It seems to me more of us should be taking advantage of this amazing technology to answer several common problems evident in the threads here. Firstly - as we know - truck modelers are largely ignored by the mainstream companies - and the aftermarket, although producing some great things - is really expensive, and often sold out. Buying the tires/wheels for that Michigan trailer will bankrupt your yearly hobby budget! I am NOT a tech guy, or young computer savvy kid (68 years old), but I bought a 3D printer and began to experiment with it to print stuff for my builds - not as a hobby in itself. I've been amazed. What you see in the next pictures are results ANYBODY can achieve - I'm no pro, I just set up the machine and hit 'PRINT'. These are my actual prints of files obtained online, I didn't write the files - I can't do CAD if my life depended on it. So I stress - if I can do it, ANY of us can do this. If there's an interest, I can share more, including equipment and settings, file sources etc.. If not - thanks for your time in reading. All comments and opinions welcome. Below is my print of a Peterbilt 367 (held together with tape) as it comes raw out of the printer with no sanding etc. in 1/25 scale. Time to print is 5 hours, cost is about 5 dollars in resin. There are a wide variety of well detailed cabs available - I'll post some more. This file comes with interior, filters, fuel tanks and "glass". No engine/frame/running gear - need donors for that.