Scale-Master

It is non-metallic, it was made to be a match for Wolf Blue. This is painted with it:

At least with photovoltaics, once they are in operation they do not produce pollutants.

Think of it as a precursor to the Cadillac XLR...

That is a bit of a fish story... See: http://www.mikebrownsolutions.com/bccfish.htm THE FISH CARBURETOR MANUFACTURED BY THE BROWN CARBURETOR COMPANY FROM 1981-1996 And for a more accurate description of the actual "improvements": http://www.mikebrownsolutions.com/fish3.htm

How do you propose we create the compressed air without generating any polution? And if you say electrically, where does that energy come from?

Are you sure you don't have that backwards? Tires into wheels?

The Michaels near me no longer has it and they now don't even know what flocking is. Too bad too, I used to buy it there, but the stores in my area stopped carrying it, why they don't know what flocking is is another issue... And don't try to buy it during Christmas, that just creates a whole new level of confusion.

I'd say Camaro. 1969 to be specific.

At our annual show (CFAC) we have a Modified Die-Cast category. We try to access the amount of work, and the quality of work, not always easy because some have factory paint and others are fully rebuilt. Ironically, some entrants think that simply waxing a die-cast is enough to make it "modified". (We don't.) We also allow significantly modified die-casts (fully rebuilt and refinished) to be entered in the traditional classes, but they get no extra points or passes for being a more difficult medium to work in. They are judged on the end product. The entrants are advised they are possibly handicapping themselves by doing so. There is no easy one size fits all answer for this at contests. Each situation has to be handled as it comes while following the spirit of the rules.

In regards to the "factory assembled" vs. "kit", often taking apart a diecast is more work than starting with a kit. I have had to break parts to remove them since they are assembled to stay that way. Windows and lights are sensitive items, plus all the tampo details may need to be replaced with in most cases custom art/decals. Repairs to broken parts are common to make a "factory assembled" model into a kit to be built/rebuilt. So my question is, once the "factory assembled" subject has been reduced to its original parts, is it not a kit again? An argument can be made to unbuild and rebuild a "factory assembled" model takes more work than starting with a virgin kit. As far as in competition, count me as one who agrees that there should be different classes for modified die-cast and traditional kits. Not every one does as much work as this on modifying a die-cast. While this one may be competitive in the traditional arena, in most cases the separation makes it easier and fairer to judge them seperately.

I think Dave would give it a thumbs up...

As the post above points out, the judges may very well have assumed it came as a finished die-cast that way. To me anyone trying to make a "model" out of a die-cast is starting on an uphill battle compared to working with styrene. I find the metal is not as easy to work as plastic. So to achieve what is deemed "equal to plastic" requires more effort. Good job on this one!

Last build of the year completed. Renaissance 1/43 scale kit built out of the box… Not the best resin kit for sure, even if it did have more parts than many 1/25 scale kits. Casting was pretty rough and the fit left much to be desired (both white metal and resin) . Not sure the instructions were all that accurate either. But here it is, in all of its mundane glory…

Many were built from junkyard parts since it was sold as a kit by Lotus to avoid the high tariff of when buying a completed car. The kit came with a list of parts for the builder to get from junkards. But I have seen many that are much better (professionally and home) built than most of the mass produced cars of the 80's. Since it is sold as a kit, and we all have seen the range of skills of model builders... They look like they do because they do what they were built to do.

I caught the very beginning of League Of Their Own for the first time a couple nights ago and noticed a few large scale cars on the counter near the door of the home the women were leaving to go to the airport from. Maybe 5 minutes in from the start. They might have been liquor bottles, but to me the definition was too good, not that they were in good focus. Most prominent was a red Camaro or Corvette. I was guessing they might have been from the 1/8 scale Mongram series.

Cars like that often look a lot better once you have driven them. It looks like it does because form follows function, much like the Super 7 it appears to be derived from.

I have seen both sides of the "car modelers are cheap" discussion. Yes some guys will spend $100.00 and more on aftermarket items for a $15.00 kit and use $30.00 worth of finishing supplies to build and paint it. You can call me cheap, I'll take it as a compliment, but I prefer frugal. I'd rather make what I want than purchase it. So it costs me time, but isn't part of the hobby about the enjoyment of building? But then I have seen some guys complain about prices of kits without realizing the quality/value of them. That is a different kind of being cheap.

Depends a lot on what you value your time investment at.

A lot of it has to do with the manufacturers making what they think will sell. None of today's 1/25 scale kits are anywhere near the detail of the aircraft kits? Look a 1/24 scale car Tamiya kit. You can get that same level of fit that is described as standard on aircraft kits, but you must pay for it, just like those nice aircraft kits. Have you priced any of these new airplane kits? I have heard a lot of whining about the high price of Tamiya car kits, but there is a reason for that price tag. Model kits are aimed at different levels of builders, never will all builders agree on what all kits should be like. The bottom line is the companies produce what the market will bear.

Yes Jesse, I did some re-engineering to make it easier to paint and build. Here is the WIP thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11547&st=0&p=88538&hl=gt500&fromsearch=1&#entry88538 Hopefully it has enough info for you, I started sharing its progress late into the build.

Went for another one set in the ‘80’s. Nothing like root beer brown to set the tone for an era… New wheels (metal & resin) and a rake with some attitude… BTW, it is a Matchbox car...

It wasn't too long ago everyone seemed so happy about being able to buy the Chevelle wagon and the El Camino kits to get enough parts between them to build what they wanted. I don't recall any complaining that the Chevelle wagon was a custom only kit. What has changed? This '56 Chevy can be found as a stock kit, (not so for the wagon), why not buy the earlier one if the stock wheels are so important? Seems a bit petty and (as mentioned earlier) harsh to demand that extra parts be included or you won't buy it, but then maybe you aren't the intended party they are marketing the model too? H onestly, were you guys that made those comments really going to buy it if it did include the parts to meet your demand? Why do I think not? For what it is worth, I have built two of these kits (one as factory stock, one as the kit version custom) and they went together very well.

I have never been able to get the deep gloss from Humbrol as I get from Testors. It goes down smooth, and it is glossy. Once dry it can be polished and that will raise the luster and shine but not add depth. If you want that deep wet look shine, I'd suggest clear gloss, that is what I do...

That is a very desireable (before being burried) chairs & flares Dino.

I have used Humbrol enamels and have always used lacquer thinner just like when I use Testors. The same techniques work the same with Humbrol as they do with Testors enamels.