Scale-Master

I rarely use parts from unbuilt kits for a different project. I have been known to build something to get the leftovers for a future project... But I save all the leftovers as I go, and over the last four decades, that has created a bunch of parts I often can't find when I want them. So I just scratch-build instead of looking. Seems more productive, and once I make what I need, I find what I was looking for without trying. The same technique works for finding dropped/lost parts...

This is at least 7 number 10...

Very nicely done!

Actually, that is not correct. I cut rims on my mill much of the time. I can also turn them on my lathe. And my wheel centers are done on the mill. With the proper additions a mill is very versatile. I can make more items on my mill that I can on my lathe. I have Sherline (correct spelling) equipment and recommend it.

The hood needed to be modified to fit over the Weber carbs and the scoop on the left side was removed. Stock hood: The raised sections were scribed and cut from the bottom side of the hood and hinged up and then sheet styrene wedges were added as shown,

The wheels were sourced from a Tamiya BMW and narrowed on the lathe to match the tires I dug up from the spares box, they are also Tamiya parts. The spare is a modified stock wheel from the 7 kit. I filled the four depressions then turned a new face and milled the five lug holes to match the five lug pattern on the BMW wheels.

The carbs from the Lotus (and a second set not used in another previous build) were cut apart and mounted to a pair of plugs that fit into the manifold I made. Here is a partial mock-up of the engine parts so far…

I machined a pulley set in 7075 aluminum. The alternator is a slightly modified unit from a Revell Charger. The radiator was modified slightly using part of the upper radiator hose and filler cap from the Lotus. Fine screen was added to the face of the radiator. And the top was beefed up with sheet styrene.

Very creative and cool. Nicely balanced and it really captures the moment.

I have built several of those multi piece body Fords, (even some for box art...). Just take the time to fit and true up the body parts. The rest is basic modeling skills. I do prefer to use CA and kicker to lessen the chances of the parts shifting while drying. And I agree with Ranchero Steve's perspective. Those kits can make you a better builder.

The intake manifold is coming along. Brass and styrene construction …

The headers were made from leftovers out of the AMT ’70 Camaro. Here is what I started with: A new section was added to the left header and one pipe on each header was cut off from the flange all the way to the collector. The right side (cylinder #2) pipe had to be shortened. The flanges were cut off and pins were set into them to help locate them to the heads. The headers were then fitted to the engine in the car and measured and cut to the required length. A set of PE flanges were used on both the headers and the exhaust pipes I bent out of solder. Brass was used to make the brackets.

Once the paint dried it was just a matter of attaching all the little parts that I had already prepared… The kit is the 1/43rd white metal SMTS with decals I created to replace the poorly rendered and yellowed kit supplied ones. Paint is Tamiya TS-36 Fluorescent Red. WIP: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42947

I don't see why not...

The heads were cleaned up, trued up and resized. Holes were drilled for the exhaust mounting pins (to be addressed when the headers are made). You can see the beginning of the intake manifold in this picture too.

First I'd make/use smaller seats. That could allow the use of the kit's factory correct part. Otherwise I would scratchbuild what fits from sheet styrene or brass tubing depending on the shape.

The rear axle was beefed up with a truss. The drive shaft was removed from the front of the differential.

The transmission also had to be lowered so I cut a section of the chassis out and made a new cross member. A driveshaft safety loop was needed since the tunnel was removed...

The seats take up more space than the stock drive shaft tunnel allows. I cut off part of it to make room for the seats. First I drew the cut line. And then used a PE saw to make the cuts.

The passenger side foot well bulk head has been re-installed on the right side and the motor mount receivers have been lowered to allow the larger engine to fit under the hood. Bosses were added on the bottom to provide depth to lower the motor mounts. They will be thinned out once the location is finalized.

That is slick! Very cool, and well done!

The basic drive train is mocked up here. I am replacing the 1300cc four-banger with a Buick V6. The donor is a very bland AMT unit from the Opel GT. The block has been modified to accept the Lotus engine mounts and transmission, and the oil pan from the four cylinder engine was modified to fit the V6 and make it sit lower in the car. The transmissions were cut off both engines and I am using the Seven’s trans.

I already have a plan for that, widening would not fit the theme of this one. But a driveshaft loop/cage like we discussed will work.

A seat from the parts box (don’t know what it came from, but I think it was a Tamiya kit) was modified for the driver’s seat…