Scale-Master

That came out great Scott. And the tutorial is very clear. I dare say your finished part is as good if not better than a machined version. Personally I like the delicateness of yours. While machining would be an option, your parts breakdown is how I would go at it now...

Considering the BoneShaker has a skull with a face, I was looking for a smile added to it... Nice to see others turning Hot Wheels into models...

No apologies needed Monty. I am the guy who put the lettering on those tires, I'm the graphics artist for the AFX line. I am responsible for all those graphics, have been for many years. (Ever notice the Scale-Master logos on the generic cars?)

Sure you can drive a car uncorked and with slicks on any public road, for a while... Illegal does not mean impossible. And at least for me, it was when fix-it tickets just needed a sign off, no fine...

To me there is a very big difference between illegal and illogical. A car can operate with open headers and slick tires...

Thanks guys, but while I do have one of those AFX cars, I'm not quite sure what you are sayin' Monty...

I replaced the wheels, repainted it and made some custom decals... What if...?

I'm left with just WoW! Great stuff!

Wow! Killer job!

I'll be watching this. You have a good start on it, keep it up!

I'm going too have to say all four listed plus machining and some other facets...

The Pactra RC paint is formulated to be sprayed inside clear R/C car bodies and stays flexible so it won't chip off as easy during impacts. It does not lay down well (compared to traditional model paints) and does not polish very well either. It does work well for its intended R/C purpose. It can be clear coated, I used urethane to help hide the coarse nature of the paint's finish. It can also subdue details on 1/25 scale cars. (I used it on a 1/12 scale slab sided car, and it was still a bit of work to make look like "normal" paint.)

I think you are better off investing in a toothbrush instead of the spray bottle for mold release removal. You can even use an old one for free if you want super cheap... Might be an excuse to go to the dentist? Here's another tip, use the new one for oral hygiene. I just use the detergent from the dispenser it comes in...

Very cool Scott!

Yes, it is better to address the orange peel before clear coating instead of hoping the clear smooths it out. All you need to do is sand out the orange peel before clearing. (You can polish the clear afterwards.) Without any photos I can only give some general direction/advice. I'd say sand it with 1200 wet paper, check your progress often. You just want to take off the peaks of the orange peel so it is a uniform sheen with no spots (low points). That grit will also leave enough "tooth" for the clear to adhere to. The biggest concern is to not sand through the color. Be especially careful around the edges and high points of the parts. If you do sand through, touch it up. Once you have a uniform color base, apply the clear. The next step is to learn how to apply paint with less orange peel...

Jim Keeler asked me to post this picture taken after part of his 70th Birthday celebration... The note said he jumped out of the plane and had a nice parachute experience. Looks like the pilot was his jump buddy... Happy Birthday JimDaddy!

Very well done Brian, ya just gotta know I'd like it!

UTE-iful.

I am curious about your comment of sanding too much. Sanding should stop once the desired shape and finish are achieved. Could you explain what you mean by sanding too much? Thanks.

Do you think this will affect your budding resin business? And wise advice there, do not over stock up on BMF, humidity changes (shrinking and expansion of the carrier sheet) can cause wrinkles in the foil on the sheet and those wrinkles are as good as cracks.

Lot's of really cool stuff in this thread! From my collection, I still like this one... '69 Magnum Hemi But as for real one's, (I guess from my collection too...), I am partial to this one... '68 Vista Cruiser

That is basically a re-issue of the Revell BRE 240Z. The Walt Maas "Giant Killer". I believe it was just a decal change from the BRE kit, and new box art... Nicely built example there...

Anybody else notice the striking resemblance of the paint scheme to Starsky's Torino...?

As far as this model, Ditto! And I hope the real 1:1 one does as well!

I machined an oil filter and remote mount from 7075 aluminum, (in one piece). I also machined the fittings and made a decal for the Fram graphics. Hopefully the engine is in for the final time… The chrome stone guards for the rear fenders have been made and applied…