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Scale-Master

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Everything posted by Scale-Master

  1. Brandon, Maybe if you posted some of your work along with these offerings of "how to do it" other people could see what level of results your suggestions might yield? I am also curious if you are actually "practicing what you preach" or just compiling and parroting what you have heard or read elsewhere. Much of your info is incomplete and some is just plain bad advice. Offering advice should come from actual working knowledge of the subject(s) at hand. FWIW, I advise against those cheap brushes. Buy one or two good sable brushes and take care of them. Windsor Newton is a good and easy to find brand. You may have to go to an art supply store if your hobby shop does not carry a similar quality item. I build quite a bit and do a lot of hand painting and a $7.00 brush will last me for 6-8 months of prime use before being relegated to less detailed tasks...
  2. Wow! I thought I could build fast. That is amazing!
  3. Yeah Dave, I see it too..., even with all the measuring and fitting, you are right. I am not so pleased with the tire/rim size now that it is coming together. Rears are too wide, fronts are too close (high) to the fenders... I may just have to make some more stuff! Maybe new tires, maybe new wheels too? Gotta think it over. Oh well, these really are the projects I like to play with...
  4. Up on its wheels! (Temporarily.) Still some adjustments to make, but now I can work on the exhaust…
  5. The fact that they are composed of so many variables (being offered as home-build kits) makes building them in a personal way one big draw. At least that is one reason why I keep building them, not 100% why I got hooked on them earlier. I just like certain small British sports cars. Not a big fan of the styling of this one either, but the performance is such that they look better after you experience one... Here is the 2007 GSL winner: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=31766&st=0&p=315570&hl=+super%20+7&fromsearch=1&#entry315570 And no, it is not the same blue on this one...
  6. Again, not trying to be difficult, but the fact that we can see it in a post explaining of all things, "the right way to do something" means we CAN see it. And again, confusing...
  7. That came out great. A real incentive to keep the shiny side up!
  8. The license plate mount is installed, another parts box item… The taillight reflectors (on the inside of the fenders, visible through the taillight lens) were machined from 7075 aluminum, and the bulbs were made from styrene. The center mount rear view mirror and bracket were machined from 7075 aluminum, brushed finish for the housing, polished for the rim. The actual mirror face is Mylar. Nose is almost done, I see I need to tweak the grille a bit more still… Chrome stone guard has been applied to the chin spoiler. The radiator and cooling fan are installed (and wired). Battery is also in its final location and wired up…
  9. OK, I'm confused. I hope I am allowed to point out the ejection pin marks without being accused of being a jerk. But since this thread is about common errors in building, and this model was used to represent how to "do it right", yet those pesky ejector pin marks are still there. (Look to the sides of the transmission on the fenders.) Not being overly picky, but only partly removing them is not the same as fully removing them. And in an example of the correct way? Confusing...
  10. Scale-Master

    Smart??

    Very nice work overall, but those wheels make it.
  11. Very cool! Excellent grunge work!
  12. Nothing here either, and I understand I have an article in it... Maybe tomorrow...
  13. I have been able to get a lot done on it in the last day and a quarter… Steering wheel is a Tamiya item from the parts box. Did some minor detailing to it and drilled it out. Super 7 kit decal for the horn, centering stripe is a decal. New column is machined plastic with PE turn signal lever. All four carbs are on and fuel lines installed. The coil was sourced from the parts box and a mounting bracket was made from duct foil tape, with a PE bolt head… Ignition and charging system wiring is complete. Master cylinders are connected to their hydraulic systems… Seats have been installed… Red, White & Blue just in time for the Fourth! Mocking up the nose/hood/cowl fit to align the cowl to the body… The nose is Tamiya Pearl White. Kit decal for nose badge… I added a chin spoiler to the nose. Headlights installed and some more wiring… Upper radiator hose is installed…
  14. Resin kit by Marsh. Builds real nice. 1/43rd scale…
  15. The plumbing is almost done, just need to install the master cylinders and connect them to the clutch and brakes, and run the fuel lines from the metering block to the carbs… The engine is in for good. The drive line is in too.
  16. That partly depends on the finish you achieve while painting... The model I decaled yesterday for example went from paint being applied to decals being applied in 24 hours with no surface treatment. But if you are going to polish it out, it is easier to do so prior to decal application. And I needed to use both decal solvent and the hair dryer on some of those decals...
  17. I see you are trying to be helpful, but if the info you provide is not correct, you can actually cause other people some frustration (or worse, damage to their project that costs them to repair, assuming it can be repaired by them) when your recommendations do not work. You seem to be an enthusiastic builder, but a novice nonetheless. Please allow me to provide some additional decal application info for clarification to others who may have taken this to heart. (For what it's worth, I have been working in the model decal industry for over 30 years.) Step One: Make sure the model is free of dust or lint That can't hurt, it is common sense advice, but not complete... Step Two: Using a small pair of scissors, clip the deacl from it's sheet. Again good advice, but incomplete. I often use large scissors, especially for larger elements. Small ones are useful for tiny decals, but so is an X-Acto knife. The key is keeping them clean and sharp. I recommend dedicating at least one set of scissors to decal work ONLY. Same with a good set of tweezers, not a bad idea for the knife too. I keep a scalpel set aside myself... Step Three: Dip the decal in lukewarm water for about 10 seconds. Different decals release from their sheets in different time frames. Some older ones can take 5 minutes, even more. (I just yesterday used a fairly recent set that took no less than 3 minutes for any of them to release.) Some release as soon as you remove them from the water dish. There is no set time frame other than "when it has released". Temperature is not as critical as cleanliness, but warmer water will aid in pliability. Step Four: Apply the decal to the model, using the Q-Tip to work it around the curves. Yes, Q-tips are great decaling tools. But wait! There's so much more! Brushes work far better as the positioning tool for me. (Again, clean and dedicated to decal work.) Decal solvents are often required to help decals conform to compound curved shapes, or just deal with small raised or depressed details. Different decals require different approaches. There are many different brands and types of products/chemicals to aid in decal application pertaining to getting them to conform and lay down. Decal solvents vs. decal setting solutions? An entire chapter could be written on just this facet of decal application. Step Five: Dab the excess water from the model and allow the decl to dry for 24 hours before handling. If you consider my suggestions, your step five is a moot point. And you are still not done with the decaling process... I do not have the time today to explain what has already been published and discussed about proper decal application, but I think it is important to offer sound advice, not just string a bunch of words together compiled from a little experience and call it Modeling Basics 101. If you still wish to offer advice, I think it would help if you used spell check. Misspelling (in different ways) the subject of your tutorial does not make it come across too well. But I applaud your enthusiasm.
  18. I find it easier to apply my clear coat over the decals... Just a little humor guys... We can still have that, can't we?
  19. Going light with the paint is a very good idea on this model, you can obscure the body trim details easily with heavy paint making painting the window frames, for example, a challenge... Thick paint will also give you problems fitting the tail light clear covers onto the body, tight tolerances there... I did this one as a quick build not too long ago... Out-Of-The-Box this kit fits quite well. I added a few decals, and swapped the wheels, and lowered it a little. It has the Japanese trim parts on an American based version. All Tamiya TS paints for the body... Hey look, it's the same bay window and exterior motion flood light reflected in my Supra and the Tsunami!
  20. My understanding is the pearls were made from fish scales, not the metallics. I think the metallics were made with fine aluminum and or other metal powders added to the paint. The lack of colored pigment made them less durable. But if you are using these paints on models, I would not worry too much about them not lasting, unless you plan on exposing them to the elements like a real car.
  21. I have one, but I use it far less than I expected I would.
  22. "that means that a hemi from a 1/25 would be just a hair bigger them a hemi from a 1/24 scale kit" Ummm, actually a 1/24 scale engine (or any part for that matter) will be larger than its 1/25 scale counterpart... I like your imagination on this Camaro...
  23. That came out KILLER!
  24. That came out great Scott. And the tutorial is very clear. I dare say your finished part is as good if not better than a machined version. Personally I like the delicateness of yours. While machining would be an option, your parts breakdown is how I would go at it now...
  25. Considering the BoneShaker has a skull with a face, I was looking for a smile added to it... Nice to see others turning Hot Wheels into models...
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