Scale-Master

Do you think this will affect your budding resin business? And wise advice there, do not over stock up on BMF, humidity changes (shrinking and expansion of the carrier sheet) can cause wrinkles in the foil on the sheet and those wrinkles are as good as cracks.

Lot's of really cool stuff in this thread! From my collection, I still like this one... '69 Magnum Hemi But as for real one's, (I guess from my collection too...), I am partial to this one... '68 Vista Cruiser

That is basically a re-issue of the Revell BRE 240Z. The Walt Maas "Giant Killer". I believe it was just a decal change from the BRE kit, and new box art... Nicely built example there...

Anybody else notice the striking resemblance of the paint scheme to Starsky's Torino...?

As far as this model, Ditto! And I hope the real 1:1 one does as well!

I machined an oil filter and remote mount from 7075 aluminum, (in one piece). I also machined the fittings and made a decal for the Fram graphics. Hopefully the engine is in for the final time… The chrome stone guards for the rear fenders have been made and applied…

More like SHAM-Wow...

That is a gem of a kit. I too enjoyed building mine a few years ago...

Are you going for a specialized (maybe stone-like?) look? Just curious... I'm not sure if the splatter look is what you were trying to acheive. I have found the Tamiya acrylics do need to be thinned for airbrushing. I prefer lacquer thinner for that, but Do Not put lacquer-thinned paint back into your bottle, unless you want glop in a couple days...

My wife is incredibly supportive of my interest in this hobby. She knew nothing of it when we met. Yet about ten years ago decided I needed a display room, so she bought me a beautiful custom made set of display cabinets (to my specifications). Two walls worth. And encouraged me to turn one of our living rooms into a showroom for my models. I of course had to remove most of the models from all the other "public/shared" areas of the house. She even has built a few models and does a good job. She doesn't care for the building too much, but she does paint well, especially with an airbrush.

Happy Birthday Mark... You may come off as wise beyond your years and that is why some here may think you are in a completely different decade... As long as I'm alive you'll never be as old as me...

LeMans Winner 1983. Starter resin kit, 1/43 scale… Funny, I really like the Lowenbrau version, this one doesn’t really do it for me though, but it is a winner…

It'll be Friday soon enough... Just finished this little bruiser: I started with Treasure Hunt Hot Wheels, standard approximate 1/64th scale. I shaved the chassis, made a wire front drop axle and changed the wheels/tires. Tires are from my 1/43 scale parts box. Wheels are discs I cut from sheet Mylar. Paint is Tamiya Maroon over black. Decals are from the Warbirds/Scale-Master sheet 64011. Except the tire decals, those I custom made…

Brake lines from the brakes are plumbed, next I'll plumb them from the master out. Kit battery has been modified into a dual terminal model, I'm using the side terminals.

If you use gloss paint as your base, and get really good adhesion of the decals to the paint, you can scuff them with very fine sandpaper once they are fully dry and the decals will react much like paint. Then shoot some dullcoat over them to kill the gloss. I hope that makes sense...

I respectfully disagree, I think there is a viable contingent of sports car enthusiasts here. I see a significant amount sports car models represented too...

Another of a not so favorite car for me, but a LeMans winner nonetheless... (1981) Ye olde resin kit... 1/43rd scale... Testors High Gloss white is the base color.

Looks like a lot of redundancy there... I think the layout is fine as it is...

I'd like to echo a point made by Pete J. "In the Spirit of the Rules." The IPMS USA rules do clearly state that all work is to be "the Sole Work of the Entrant". They also clearly state BMF, decals and paint are allowed to be used. Want to get into a flocking discussion too? Farming any work out, while you could get away with it, is not in the spirit of the rules. That includes sending parts out to be chromed. Everyone gets an equal chrome shot from their kit, to send it out for re-plating is not doing your own work. If it was a bad shot, you can get a replacement from the manufacturer. If it is not available, well, apply your modeling skills and deal with it within the boundaries of the rules. BMF, Alclad or your choice of metalizer is allowed... Or maybe opt for that Endura bumper look... A little common sense applied to the spirit of the rules should provide you with the correct answers as to what is or is not allowed. Or you could just read all the way through the rules for the contest you intend to enter...

When we had our house re-roofed a few years ago, I had to move all my kits out of the (climate controlled) attic. At that time I created a list in Excel. As I add or remove kits I make notes on a pad of paper I keep up there. Someday I will actually update that Excel list with those hand written notes...

There you go! Much more customer friendly sounding already.

Brandon, I have an observation, and I mean this in the most polite way possible, but offering a product for sale with a caveat of "Please don't buy and bash the quality, consider this fair warning." is not a really good way to start a business. (Quote taken from the Confederate site.) Is that a way of saying you are selling a poor quality item and it is the buyers problem if they don’t like it? Not a great business model in my opinion. I get that you are being up front about not being a professional caster, but as soon as you offer a product for sale, you undertake a certain responsibility. May I suggest you take a little more time to hone your casting skills a bit further and offer a higher quality part in the future? Good luck with your venture.

I believe HOK is a lacquer, (I don't use it), but I would not recommend using Future under any lacquer. That's not to say it won't work, but long term it may develop issues. I have seen fissures appear months later in the Future under a solvent based clear.

Point of clarification... Future is clear acrylic.

Clear sheet styrene is available, but I find there is a lot of mass product packaging that will provide significant panels of clear for model use. You might already have something...? More info as to size requirements might help your search/query.