Scale-Master

Is it solvent based cement, or CA? If it is solvent based, yes, as mentioned sanding and polishing is the way to go. But if it is CA you can use some debonder to remove the cement, then polish out where the debonder has dulled the plastic. Either way, it costs almost nothing to fix, and the time it takes to repair is less than the time it takes to go to the store to buy a replacement kit.

Not that my shop is anywhere near sterile, but since the dog and cats left us we have had a huge increase in spider population this year. They are everywhere, but the little flying gnats tend to be the critters that get into my paint jobs.

I'll admit I didn't read the replies..., but not to sound too redundant, (and I am sure I will be), I really like it! Killer execution! It's a wow for me!

I like the plate, and the fact you kept to the 7 character limit. Clever choice. I like the flamage too. And good heat stain work on the exhaust...

That's a nice touch with the wrapping and buckles, BTW, it's Lenco...

Actually it is not just the loudness to the ear of the exhaust. My Camaro is corked up tight and not very loud decibel wise, but it has a good amount of cam and that low frequency rumble does set off alarms.

The kit decals had been water damaged, but I was able to soak most of them off the paper and use them. Sometimes it took almost an hour for them to release, with a little prodding. The base color is a gray I mixed with Testors enamels. The C/F and Honda decals are from the kit. Some of the decals were just too well ingrained with the paper and unusable, but fortunately I had a partial sheet that contained those most of those elements. Interestingly the color was different between the sheets, but that worked to my advantage since I am going for a semi-distressed/used look. The Kevlar decals are from Studio 27. After the composite material decals were applied I tinted them, (and the gray), by airbrushing Smoke to accentuate some of the shapes and recesses. The chrome fasteners are BMF, except for the ones on the fuel filler, just hand painted silver for them…

I told you that thing was not a shrink ray.

What are you, psychic?

Some of the guys that attend my show in September are IPMS members, they might be able to give you more firsthand info...

Yep, Matchbox, the wheels, and proportions are a clue... Yeah, I have to wear glasses to see the details now...

Some custom decals, some from my sheet… Testors Guards Red. 1/68th scale.

It came out nice. Clean job. Old super glue can be weak and brittle. For delicate mirrors I often drill a small hole in the mirror post and a matching hole where it attaches to the car. Then glue a pin or piece of wire into the hole in the mirror. Makes a positive mount and it easier to install in a lot of cases. It might still be doable on this one even though it is finished...

There should be an I.P.M.S. chapter within your range, there is one in Pasadena... There are a lot of chapters...

Welcome. I usually just use paint. A flat finish will give a little texture (is it a velour headliner?) that looks pretty convincing, and since it is not on an easy to see part of the model it may not be as critical as you might be thinking. I have seen flocking used, but it tends to look like shag to me instead of velour.

Oh yeah! That is nice, and I didn't even notice it was a slot car the first time I looked at it. Must look very cool running around the track. Now to get some orange slot car track...

That is looking super nice Bill! I really like the engine, and the dash, and the chassis...

"Outta the box", they came with it. I did paint them. They look like a generic composite of Pontiac and Buick five spoke Rallye type wheels but they have three "tangs" sticking out around the center. Too bad, without those things they be really nice. Still a better option than the toylike HW wheels, and easy to find if I am thinking what you might be pondering...

I was afraid of that... I think in this scale it can be a 70-73... depending on how it's decorated... Except for the grille engraving... (which is clearly not a '72 pattern)... Like anyone can see it... while it is assembeled... The left rear fender lip... is probably the worst part I see... I hope I don't get the thread locked... for pointing out that flaw to everyone... including the builder... Oh look... I didn't even get an additional post counted... and I didn't bump the thread by posting as an edit... to something I could have responded to before... but forgot too... maybe intentionally... Captain out...

The body was defective and needed quite a bit of filler. I didn’t fix it 100%, but it is much better, hopefully they are not all like that… Lime Pearl over Bright Green base, Tamiya paints. Custom decals… It is actually a 1/64 Matchbox.

Thanks guys. I used the instructions from the 1/12 Tamiya kit I built (20!) years ago for reference. According to that, this is the Japanese GP version. (Note Japanese characters above the 3 on the front.)

I find it interesting how so many people who did not see what actually happened yesterday, that John caused and is "apologizing" for, have assumed they know what happened and (ignorantly in my opinion) jumped to his defense. It's nice you all support him and like his work, but it is not about his building or regular posting style. It is about a series of unwarranted rant-like comments he wrote making terrible and false accusations about some board members. He even continued his attack when no response was given by those he was accusing. There are at least two people he has not apologized to for what he wrote on this open forum yesterday, yet he has had plenty of time to come here for support... Even though he brought it on himself. I am not trying to start anything, just being honest.

To be clear, I am referring to using lacquer thinner in the water clean up variety (aqueous) of acrylics. Of course it also works well with decanted Krylon, Rustoleum, Plasticote...

Made all the decals. Mixed the Pacific Blue. Detail painted the engine and driver… It is a 92 cent Hot Wheels...

I did a set from Mylar for the hardware and vinyl for the belts. Medical tape has a bit more character than the vinyl, it was an experiment. I may try it again...