Smart-Resins

Absolutly beautiful! Jody

I have one I use for my forum with his permission! I have the model and the paint too! Here is a pic of it. If its good, Ill send addy. will have to be pic ebtry only. Jody

Yes, thank you. I pick up the grinder today with grinding wheel and cut off wheel, so the fun will begin. LOL. Thanks. Jody

Nah, thefuns just beginning! LOL. The lower rear will be cut off and a small angle cut and welded back on. A extension put onto the rear to stretch it. The top post will be cut off, shortened and bent and will become the seat post. the front bottom rail and crank and steering down tube will be left stock, only facing upward more for more of a rake. The rear two rails and all upper rails will be scratched. The front triple fork and springer front end will be scratched. A24 x 2.75 rim in the rear with a free wheeling single speed. The original one piece crank and two gears will be used to make it a single speed. The forkes will be raked more to give a shorter tail for better handling as a 10 1/2" tail will make it harder to handle on longer trips across town. There will be a custom tank made within the front of the bike for more style. Shooting for a tradition 60's style chopper. I even have the frame already scratched in 1/12 scale is why I drew the bike out using 1:1 measurements and scaling down to 1/12. The missing measurements I came across as I was scratching the 1/12 version. Theres very little math left to be done and I have 90% of the parts I need. also have grandpa to do the welding. Just need to find a shop that will make the bends for me! Thanks. Jody

Heres my design! Ill also try to work it out in 1/12 as I go.Also pic of my real deal stripped and ready for the chopping block! HEHEHE Thanks. Jody

My suggestion certainly is to keep to simple one part items to start with. I did not know that smooth on had a trial package. I certainly would suggest try that! The popsicle sticks, cups and clay can be found at any good hobby store or online for even cheaper. I think I got my 1000 sticks for about $5 and I cut them in half, so thats 2000 for $5! Yes, I got my scale at harbor frieght for about 10 as well. Also, if you ever do decide to delve into two part molds once you feel comfortable, here is a tutorial Chris Buck shared with me that I have posted on my forum. Thanks. Jody http://kustomcarz.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=resinworking&action=display&thread=124

I am sure you would want more then this broken wallet could afford! LOL. Thats gotta be a cool bike! any pics? Jody

Very cool! Jody

Nice bike! I only wish the black one was mine! Mine is more like this one! Though mine was ridable. I still need to upload the pick of my bare frame. I made the first cut, wich was cutting the forks off of the steering tube so I can make a triple fork set up.Again, mine is a 70's Sears & Roebuck Free Spirit 24" 10 speed. Thanks. Jody

Heres the style I was looking for! Now to figure out how to best make this old 10 speed to look as close to that as possible! LOL. I see the front forks on the back of the bike and having to bend a tube or two! I already know I will have to scratch my own triple fork front end! Now to see if I can figure out how to do a springer front end with that as I would like that! LOL. Jody

By the way, do you make your own springer front ends or buy them? Im looking for a good tutorial on making them! LOL. Jody

Harry, that trike is too urbanized for me! LOL. Junkman, that is one sweet transformation! I passed up a little kids bike and now I am hoping it is still there tomorrow for me to grab for parts! LOL. Maybe the front tire if anything? But I know a coaster set up and a single or two speed would be cool! Maybe use the old gears in the front and a single in the back. But I am not possative right now! My main intention of use for the bike is here in town, or taking to car shows and riding around on it instead of walking all day since it hurts to walk too far now with my back! Love to see more! Jody

Alright, I brought home a orphaned 24" Sears and Roebuck Free Spirit 10 speed yesterday. I have completely stripped it down today. Now I am looking for ideas on how to customise it. I am tossed up between a chopper or a trike chopper. Now here is the BIG thing I am wanting if I do it trike chopper, how to make bicycle rimes out of old car rims. LOL. Now Im being serious here as they do have them that people have made. since I can not afford a real bike, I thought this would be a cool project! I am seriously leaning towards a old skool chopper build out of it though! I would like to see any of your custom chopper bikes that you may have or have had! Thanks. Jody

No you do not, as I said. I started out playing around for a while, but decided I wanted to get one after about 6 months and not getting the results I really wanted. So it really depends on what you want. I would seriously google youtube videos on it to get a good idea, then get Alumilights starter set, about $75 or so. Play around with that! Once you get compfortable with it if you want to progress, progress in the direction you wish to go! every one is different, esp. when it comes to resin casting! Some of my learning curve was helped by Bob ob LSM, then I slid into learning more from Chris Buck and then there was a bunch of trial and error as well as tid bits picked up here and there. Jody

You can also use micro mesh to polish out the paint, then use future on it! To polish out the future, use a cotten T and some water. Turns out great! Jody

Yes, I second that! also, on such stuff as say two half trannys and engines, you can cut the tranny off and glue the two halves together. also can bondo things in to make them solid if it helps. I will add to Caseys by saying your attention to the master is one of the most important part of the resin pieces coming out usable! If you can see it or feel it on the master, the part you want to make a mold of, you will be able to do it on the copy!So another words, if you leave the seem or mold lines on, they will be on the copy. If you sand them out, but do not smooth them out by working down to a fine grit, you will still see it on the resin copy! aso, when pouring the rubber for the mold, pour from one corner and let it flow across the part filling it in. If you spy any bubbles, make sure to use a pin and pop them!! They are the casters worse night mare when starting out! Some thing goes for the resin! I personally like resin with a 10 minute pot life. Pot life means how long it takes to cure, or get hard. This way I have enough time to spy out air bubbles and pop them before placing into the pressure pot! also, that is something not needed, but I find it really helps. I run mine around 35-40 lbs pressure! A small 2 gallon pot can be found at harbor frieght for around $40-$50 when on sale and can easily be converted to be used for this process. I use smooth-on product as I personally think it works better the alumilights stuff and is cheaper shipped. I buy it through Mister art wich has been the cheapest place I can find it. I did start out with alumilights stuff though and its not bad. Just thier intro ductory stuff has a shorter pot life and made it very hard to give me time to pop bubbles and get it into the pot! I have found that gold bond or other talcom powder or plain jane baby powder with no oils or fragerences works good in the mold. If you do not have intentions of getting 20-50 parts out of the mold, you can heat it up int the micro for a minute, then powder. It does help, but it also shortens the resins pot life. also my preference is to chill the resin some before using! also again personal prefference is to pour out the amount of rubber needed, warm it for about a minute, then pour it into the mold box. again, some will agree and some will not! Its all really what works best for you! Many go through les steps then I do and perhaps thats why some can handle doing after market resin. My stuff usually turns out pretty good, but it becomes such a task, then I am not cut out for aftermarket, only a few sales to cover my costs when needed! Jody

I will second the Duplicolor automotive primer. If Ive done exstensive body work, Ill use the etching primer first(Then ill use future floor polish as a sealer barrier). After that, I use the sandable, or without body work, I like useing the sandable(filler) primer. I will help in filling in the little sink marks you might not have seen. The only downfall, if applied heavy or multiple coats, you will want to clean out the door seems before adding color. Thanks. Jody

Very nice! Jody

Another terrific one and this ones just my speed! LOL. Het r done!! Jody

Oh man I hate it when something like that happens!! Jody

Man that one is sharp! Jody

Thanks for sharing! First link I found where I could save some pics foer future reference! Thanks. Jody

Dave, I like that rusted surf bug!! Jody

Very nice! Jody

That is looking good! Jody