Smart-Resins

Hmm, very tantalizing idea!! I wonder what I am doing for supper? US Army. Jody

I do not know about the hardner trick. For clear coating? The idea as far as I know is to allow the pledge with future to flow out smoothly, kinda like with nail polish. Actually, a tiny drop of dish detergant helps it break its surface tension so it will smooth out faster. For using a hardner, I have heard the train guys do something like this for lakes and ponds and streams. So I am not sure? Jody

I use a pressure pot and tank. I bought the tank from harbour frieght for about $45 shipped on sale. I bought a used belly tank compressor for $50. Then the water trap and gauge and plugs for about another $20 I think. Depending on what product you use will depend upon the time in the pot. There are 3 minute resins and 10 minute resins for example. I like to use the ten minute resins so I have time to pop air bubles with a pin, then place in the pot to get the rest that I can! Now depending upon the mold and the size, the air pressure varies from 35lbs to 45 lbs. I generally leave it on 45lbs for casting though I never got into it big time and now with health issues, I dont expect to or want to. But I have made a couple hundred buckas and done many favors and have only ever received one complaint that I know of. Jody

Bill, I have seen this thread over and over and have to admit, I may not be that good, but I dont need 101 lessons. Well tonight I could not sleep and decided to read it. Some good stuff there!! I never knew the glue trick on the body to help eleviate the ghosting. Thank you very much! Now Ill be one more step closer to being OK. LOL. I hear you on the leg. Early this spring I tore one in my arm. I no sooner recovered from that and I ended up[ with what they originally thought was bursitus in the shoulder, wich has now turned out to be spine problems and I need to go talk about surgury. I have now even fallen with what they call swine flu, if that is indeed what it is instead of normal sickness? LOL. So modeling is nill to none right now! I sure hope you heal and get better. Hopefully yours gets closer to 100% then mine did! No more speed balls for me!! Jody

I am not sure if this will help you or not? I picked this up here on the forum somewheres and found it very usefull. I wish I could give credit, but I archived it and cant remember. I have followed it and have done my first body. Waiting for decals now so I can finish it. This write up gives the names of this stuff in other countries so I hope you can find what you are looking for! Thanks. Jody http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

I second what Nick says. I actually have this kit and the 55 prosportsman. Interesting concept there, though I was debating using that chassis on my 53/4 chevy panel. One thing you may have to do is fill in areas/ gaps on the chassis to fit the body. IN these cases, I like to use styrene to build these areas up then sand them tio match the contours of the body. Jody

Just a quick note on your latter comment. I have never heard of anyone having sucess at soldering aluminum. Aluminum is a different beast. Buy brass to solder. My trick has always been to buy tube brass. One the size you need and one the next size smaller. This way, on the joints, I can try to get some od the inner tube to go into the joint onto the other side so when its soldered, it holds much stronger. Also, although I do very little of that at this point, so I have not bought one, a Weller soldering station is supposed to be best so you can control the heat that you use. Silver solder like that of the jewlers has worked best for me! Use some small clamps for heat sinks or submerge the part into sand up to your joint you are working on. As for the plastic, I think everyone has answered that just as good as I could if not better. Have fun and build! Jody

I friend of mine just finished one using a caddy hearse front end. Very cool! Jody

Nice job on that so far! Me likes. Jody

Very nice job! Jody

Ah, should look at my kits better then. LOL. I have the maverick kit and the recharged kit. The first being basically the same as the color me gone kit. LOL. Maybe I can do a before and after or a fresh and a builder car. LOL. Thanks. Jody

Yes, I got this car in a trade. I am needing front crossmember, bumper and grill. I have absolutly no clue as to what car it is! So if anyone can identify it, and maybe the manufacturer also wit would be great help! Thanks. Jody

Absolutly beautiful! great job. I love it! Thanks. Jody

Yup, me too. Though I dont post much. Jody

I am not sure, but I sure would love watching a build of it! Jody

Ah I do look forward to watching this one!! I am currently building a Airoso BRos Willy's, then will be doing a Big John Willys, then a Older blue version of the Stone woods and cook Willy's and I will have a wild pro street one to do sometime down the road as well. LOL. Not bad for never liking the looks of them. They sure are nice lil kits. I am eager to see what color you paint it! Jody

Some nice ts tghere. I like the yellow hot rod and the chopped t version! Nice ones. Jody

You asked for it, here it is in final color. Still have to clear coat and trim out, and apply decals yet to be purchased, then final clear rub and polish! But its in its pre race glory! LOL. Jody

Alright. I will enter into this finially. I do not have a car between 1955 and up! But what I do have, I have seen on here already and that is a 1941 Willy's. IThis is a commisioned build. I am going to try to closely replicate the Airoso Willys. I am using the Stone Woods and Cokk willys. Here ae some shots of the 1:1 and of my build so far. Thanks. Jody

alright, this is a commisioned build. It is a 1941 Stone Woods and Cook kit. We will painting it a nice blue pearl. It will hopefully don Whoopiekat Airoso Bros decals. Here is the inspirational photo and some quick work done to the body. Thanks. Jody

anything that wont hurt the plastic is worth a shot! Thanks. Jody

I recently got in a fairly nice kit that was unpainted and all but complete. A wonderful model to restore. it even all dismantled very nicley since everything was hot glued on!! However, my question is I have gobs of hot glue on some of the engine parts and a few other parts, but primarily inside the body. How do I remove this hot glue easily without ruining the body? Any help is greatly appreciated! jody

That one is most beautiful!! I absolutly love it!! Wow!! Sice I enjoy drawing and getting into spray paint art and starting to use my airbrush, I can see I havs of drawing and practicing to do!! someday, I want to do art work by airbrush like this and also artwark on cars tanks and helmets. Thanks. Jody