futurattraction

Super clean looking build, Cliff and it doesn't look like it's got that much age on it. Seeing it brings back memories of when I was in Jr high school and some of the seniors were driving those old '64s. Thanks for sharing!

Oh yeah! Glad to see you back on this one Jeff! I'll be watchin'...

Thanks Dave. You’re right, there is a great deal of satisfaction in meeting a challenge successfully. This has gone pretty smoothly thus far. I appreciate your kind words, Joe. I’ve got to give the Lord credit, just as with my Fairmont, for giving me the patience, an eye for what looks right, and the problem solving skills to navigate my way through this, to this point. Rick – thank you for your comment. It is a pretty ambitious project. Thankfully, I haven’t gotten tripped up on anything. I still need to finish the hood blending and fill the seam down the middle, get the grille blank fastened and blended in, do some rework on the front fascia and do some general body/finish work. I also plan to make a rear spoiler for it. I've toyed with the idea of making it out of PE but don't know for sure whether it's worth going through the trials and tribulations of getting that drawn up to fit right. Its thickness would be more to scale than styrene but the styrene will be much easier and faster to come up with a final product. A new question for those wishing to reply: Should I remove the rear view mirror mounting panels at the A-pillar or leave them for the builder to take out? They'll add considerable strength during the molding/casting process but aren't actually present on the 1:1s. Dale – I went back and looked at the Glidden Monogram chassis last night and I was partially mistaken. Rocker panel width is about dead-on. The chassis will work, but the forward frame rails will either need to be shortened where they intersect the floor, or the lower control arms will have to be relocated rearward a bit to match up with the wheelbase. The tubs will require to trimming on the upper portions to fit the curvature of the upper quarters.

Thanks Brett - I appreciate it! Hey thanks Tyrone! I'm planning to cast it - yes. Thank you very much for the kind words, Len. We still need to talk about B-17s sometime... I appreciate your nice comment, Dave. I'll keep chipping away at it! Dale - As with my Fairmont project, I challenged myself more to see if I could do it. Doing this as a more complete kit would stretch me. I feel like I'm skating on thin ice, as it is, for available time. I'm still working on some different projects in both 1/25th and 1/16th. It does appear (at a glance) as though the Glidden T-Bird chassis might work with some trimming in the trunk floor area. I'm speaking strictly wheelbase and rocker panel width at this point. I would want to go back and look at it more closely to verify both of those. I didn't actually try the 4-link and 9-inch but I'm pretty sure there's room for them. I'm also developing a fabbed rear end in 1/25th and I'm hoping to get the slicks that are shown in the latest pics cast to go along with my 14x32s.

Very nice, Steve, but as Carl said, we need to see more pictures!

Pic update -

Thank you Jeremy... Update - I've continued work on blending the hood and fender tops together. The new grille blank is roughed out and I'm doing a bit of filling on the two halves before doing final fit for it. I added .020" strips inside the rear wheel lips to reduce the opening just a bit and provide extra material. I have got most of the "rolling" of the fender lip openings done to match up with the 1:1s, just as I'm doing with the front wheel openings. I hope to post pics tonight.

Whatever you choose to do, I'm sure it'll be a killer. I'll be watching, bud...

Kevin, Have you thought about using a really small-headed straight pin? Those are what I include in my Fairmont body kits. The heads of the ones I use are around .052 OD and have just a touch of crown to them. The shaft on them is ~.020. I could send a few to you if you want. Scott

Grat to hear you're home and that surgery went better than the docs anticipated. Now, do as the docs tell you and it should be smooth sailing. Prayer DOES work!

I guess it shouldn't surprise me that you would have to make your own slicks in that scale. I, too, am curious how neoprene is to work with (not that have any intention of working with it). Super job on the tire/s, Dave!

Thanks Edward. I'm glad you're enjoying watching the thread. I'm learning too, so it's good for both of us!

Thanks Dave. It's been fun. I'm working on the grille blank at the present time. I've tried to rework the front wheel openings to get a more gentle radius from the wheel well lips into the body.

John, I wasn't sure what RMS ran on their 79 or 80 Camaro. I ended up going to back and did a YouTube search for "1980 NHRA" and found the Summer Nationals. I pulled screen shots from a segment on contingency decals, the first of which shows the rear wheels and Cragar easily visible. Interestingly, the second shot is from the same video with a close up of the front wheel in the staging beams. The shot is very clear and shows the front wheel being a Centerline, along with a Centerline decal on the front fender. I guess it makes the point that by running different manufacturers on each end of the car, they were able to get contingency money from two companies rather than one.

Thanks Jeff! I have so much enjoyed watching you transform many of the bodies you've posted as projects over the past few years. Feels sort of strange to be swapping places at the moment. LOL Thanks Bill. I'm pleased with how it's going so far... I appreciate your comment, Dave. To be honest, I hadn't given that any thought. If I cast this, I will need to talk to Ed to see what he thinks would work best.

I should add that the tires have some excess rubber where they were vented that will have to be trimmed off. I forgot to mention that yesterday. You can sort of see it in the smaller picture at about the 4 o'clock position.

Thanks Chuck. I appreciate the business. John - I actually have the wheels. I mastered them, with Jim Littiken's machining skills added in. They are actually Cragar SuperTricks rather than Centerlines... Gregg, thanks so much for the kind words. Thank you, Len. I appreciate it.

A few picture updates from the past couple days. I got the hood narrowed, fitted and attached today. I also began blending it into the edges of the fenders like the 1:1s. Here is a pic of how I ended up doing the rear window. It’s starting to look more like the 1:1 - flatter and rounder. LOL Comments/suggestions welcome...

You should be able to make some templates out of card stock, then transfer the shape over to clear acetate, which you can get at a lot of hobby shops, or a cheaper alternative is flat, clear "window" material that comes in lots of product packaging in the everyday world.

Futurattraction Scale Products is excited to introduce a new product – a new 14x32-15 slick. They are designed to work with the smaller design wheels used in the old MPC and AMT pro stock kits from yesteryear. Features include being cast in soft rubber and having no parting line in the middle of the tread. Dimensions are shown in both 1:25 and 1:1 scale for both the FSP slicks and original kit slicks. Chief Joseph was kind enough to cast these for me, so you know their quality is top notch. As can be seen, the FSP dimensions are truer to scale than the kit offerings. I currently have them on hand. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.

That's a great drawing to have on hand, Ray. I'm sure it'll come in very handy for you. I've had a nice summer. It hasn't been as productive as I'd have liked but that's okay, too. It is what it is.

Thanks Ray. It's actually gone together pretty decently so far and I feel like it's a good representation of the 1:1s. Guess I'll see as time goes on.

Thanks for your vote of confidence Wayne. Dale, I appreciate your additional photos and observations regarding the rear window shape. I think it is pretty evident, with the additional pics that the window does taper wider the closer to the deck lid it goes. Thanks for checking in Bill. I appreciate your stopping. Larry - thanks, too, by popping in. Hey Chris, I guess it's no huge deal, but it does feel sort of strange to cut up a perfectly good body... LOL I started blending the panels together night before last, re-arched the hood (a little too much) and also trimmed off .080 material from either side of the hood, only to realize I'd messed up. Physically, it made the hood closer to fitting the narrowed hood opening. What it didn't do was allow for the fact that the grille dimensions are smaller due to the narrowing of the body. Oops. I should have seen this and not done the dumb thing I did, but it's too late to cry over spilled milk. I have since added the .080 back onto the outer edges of the hood and will take the necessary slice out of the middle to arrive at the correct hood width (and matching to the grille). It's continuing to take shape - just had to take a detour is all...

Thoughts and prayers are with you for a successful surgery and quick and complete recovery. I'll look forward to your speedy return...

Amazing fabrication and attention to detail, Ray. I got way behind in following your project. I'm sure glad I got caught up with where you're at. I'll be sure to check up on you regularly. I'm excited to see the progress you've made in recent weeks.