futurattraction

Yes, they are, Dan. They're in the large scale section of Products.

Very, very nice. Great craftsmanship! I'm looking forward to more...

Lou, I googled Glidden 87 T-bird and I hit this set of pics. It looks authentic, based on the Jerry Haas build plate in the windshield. Hopefully it'll help you out. http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148496 You might try googling some more Glidden T-bird type key words to see if you find anything else. I don't know if I've got any old magazines at home that have any features on this car, or not. I'll try to look.

Thanks Chris. PM returned... I appreciate it, Michael. Assuming everything turns out the way I'm hoping, the order I'm waiting on will have several additional parts sets. In nickel-silver: a pair of butterfly steering wheels and assorted cockpit levers; wheelie bar housings; doorslammer levers. In brass: chassis tabs/brackets; upper strut mount gussets; front fender/clip mounting brackets; window mounting tab sets.

Hand brake levers Slotted rotors, 10" front, 11.25" rear Pedal set BBC Trigger wheel and bracketry Lenco levers SBC Trigger wheel and bracketry Dragster accelerator pedals with alternate toe loops Hopefully I'll have some more stuff in this coming week.

Superb job, Dave. I am totally mesmerized by the work you do...

Your rendition of AJ's car looks fantastic, Fred. I'll look forward to seeing more pictures as you finish it up!

Looks fantastic, as usual, Chris... Looking forward to your next update!

Super job, Tyrone. You nailed the yellow... Lookin' forward to more!

I'm really sorry to hear about the death of your brother. My thoughts and prayers are with you.

Hey Chuck - Thanks for your encouragement! Thank you, Bill. I’ll try to keep it going in that direction... LOL Thanks Jim! I need to send you a sample of some 1/16th PE rotors I just got in to see how they work with your hats. Hey Thanks Charlie. I love your braided line. I’m going to use it as much as possible for this build. Thank you, Phil. Yes - our respective Fairmonts are two totally different animals. I’m very preferential toward “ours”... They made for some neat drag cars in their day, and I still like the body style, even though they are pretty boxy. Also, I'm glad to hear that you're seeing how some of my stuff goes together. If you keep watching you'll get to see even more...

Besides modeling, I also like to: 1. Collect WWII Army Air Force militaria, i.e., uniforms, caps, uniform wings and airplane parts. A couple of the more unique pieces of my collection include an armored plate glass window out of a B-17 tailgunner's position and a salvaged ring sight off a .50 cal machine gun from a wreck in the states during the war. 2. Collect books and videos about the 8th Air Force/B-17s/personal accounts from WWII. 3. Sing - God gave me the ability to sing, so I am a member of our church worship team and I also sing baritone in our local men's barbershop chorus. 4. Follow the Minnesota Twins baseball team. I've been a Twins fan since 1967, when I was 11. 5. Help my wife with her antique metal head doll collection. I do the photography for her as she has written some articles published in the Antique Doll Collector magazine. She is also writing a book about metal head dolls and I have done, and will do, the photography for that - a major undertaking, as it will contain several hundred pictures. While she knows considerably more, I've learned a lot about them.

Thanks for your reply, Nick. Your headers look great! What size solder are you using for them and what type of adhesive?

Fred, it is my hope that you could get a drivetrain from me too, if desired. I've got a 351C and Lenco available now. Thanks Chris. I'm hoping to get up some momentum one of these days. Thanks for your feedback Randy!

Hey Tyrone, Yes, those pieces will be available for purchase.

A few more pics for the night, then I won't be able to post anything for a couple days. I removed quite a bit of material on the outboard edges of the kick-up in front of the tubs. With the introduction of interior door panels, I am planning to make panels to fill the inside of the B-pillar down to the floor and it'll be cleaner to have one panel from floor to roof rather than fitting around that portion of the pan. This shot gives you an idea of what the pan looks like with the additional material I added to incorporate hinges into the pan. It also gives it a bit more of an appearance of what a firewall/bulkhead area looked like on a Fairmont body-in-white (if you stretch your imagination quite a bit). I've also started adding framing for the trunk lid. It will add a bit more realism, plus offer some support for the lower edge of the back window and forward trunk lid. Here are a couple shots of door skins I've begun working on. I chucked up a Dremel bit in my drill press and raised the bed up to where there was about a .050" distance from bottom of the cutter to the table surface. I created a temporary stop so I could sort of control my line and "milled" some of the material away from three of the four edges of the door to make it more uniform. There's more to do, but this at least points me in the right direction.

I am using a much-modified Revell pan from the pro sportsman kit. I have cast a few, one of which I'm using for this build. I'm working on a master that I'm hoping Ed, my body caster, can produce for me. With it, we're planning to have the firewall separate from the rest of the pan.

Thank you, gentlemen, for your kind words and interest. It means a lot!

The body, grille and taillight bezels, PE (2-pc grille, door handles, and (door) window sill trim) all lenses, and templates for front and rear glass are $55. Additionally, flat or cowl hoods are $5; the pro stock hood with PE scoop top is $8. S&H is $5 for one body and discounted for multiple body orders.

Lots of updates to review! I'll start with picking up where I left off with the front suspension. I have added a couple of small, but important pieces to my front suspension. They are a lower A-arm "wishbone" that ties the two pieces of stainless tubing together at the lower strut mount. The wishbones are .010" thick and the sandwich spacers, shown on the red backing, are .015". When sandwiched above and below the wishbone, the overall thickness is nearly identical with the .042 tubing diameter, as can be seen in this pic. This angle shows how much more three dimensional and substantial the mount is when the spacers are added. I made a major decision to open the doors on this build about three weeks ago. I have several interior details that I was afraid would be lost in the shuffle if something wasn't done to offer more visibility. I will be using PE Lenco hand and detent levers and stainless tubing for the trans, plus PE trans tunnel, and pedals, among other things. If I'm going to do that, I decided I might as well make the front fenders removable too. Where this is all going is that I want to maintain as close a fit as possible between the various body components, so have added several sets of new pins to tie the body and pan together before cutting stuff apart. I have the luxury of having spare bodies that I was able to start the process and see if it is possible to do without botching everything. I'm pretty sure I can pull it off. I originally pinned the body only in front of the rear wheel wells as fore-aft locators. I have since added ones that will tie the rocker panels into the pan, as well as doing separate ones for the lower fenders and rear of the pan at the back bumper. I still intend to add some at the upper rear edge of the fenders at the base of the windshield. Gotta think about those a bit more. Guess I'll quit a this for the moment. More to come!

Super job Nick. So you build 1:1s too? Keep up the fantastic work. I'm hooked!

Gorgeous work, Chris. Just out of curiosity, what shape is the body release handle going to be? I know we'll see it, in time, but am just curious...

Impressive build, so far, Nick. Excellent work... I'll keep an eye on this one!

Hey Chris, Here's a pic of my 1/16th hand brake levers. Hope you don't mind my posting it in your thread...

That 10 o'clock angle and the straight side shot are both fantastic views to show off the proportions and realism of your car, Chris. I can't wait to see more!