sbk

10 6" x 8" racks of chrome sent to a plater equals the same cost of the ALSA pump kit. Not to mention how many times you get less than perfect results from the plater & have to start all over. There may be a learning curve, but at least I would be in control & not have to wait weeks to find out that the parts didn't come out as nice as they should have.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lG6O5lvhm8&feature=player_embedded

The nail polish & nail files thing was nothing compared to asking the salesperson to point me in the direction of the largest size of panty hose, as well as the most ecomomical available. I didn't even attempt to explain that it's to strain paint.

Nice work! You've don't such a great job getting everything accurate, don't forget about those front seats.

When that Rush album came out, I learned all of the songs on it. That was a LONG time ago! Not at all like Rush, but this is one of mine from 1998. http://www.sbkustoms.com/music/S.S.T./here%20now.mp3

At a model contest, (especially IPMS), execution is what matters. I don't always agree with that, & I prefer to look at how much work the builder did, but, on the other hand, it has to be done well. Paint finish is one of those things. It doesn't matter if it's shiny or not, the finish needs to be done well. With all that said, I was still surprised when this one won "best paint" at the same show Eric Stone was talking about. Like my friends said, "Hey, it's an IPMS show, what do you expect?" LOL.

If you're going for a late '50's look. Modified 51/52 Olds with 6 flippers. Modelhaus has these. 61 Plymouth. Modelhaus as well as others have these.

Thanks, but I should have been more clear. I meant sending parts out to be plated, not painted with Alclad.

If so, what were your results? Thanks,

The best place to get it from is Black Gold in Arlington,TX. They carry both lacquers & urethanes. I use lacquers. Prime like you would for any automotive or hot paint. http://shop.blackgol...=5&categoryId=2

HOK BC25 is great stuff. No clearcoat necessary.

I used BMF for the radiator hoses & pieces of 30 ga. wire for the squeeze type on the heater hoses.

The key to the chrome look is a smooth, wet looking dark base coat. The "chrome" will only come out as reflective as the base coat. Orange peel on the base coat will result in bumpy, less reflective "chrome". I like Humbrol black enamel because it dries to a harder finish than Testors. I thin the enamel with lacquer thinner, which makes it dry a little quicker than enamel thinner. I've also used Testors flat black Acryl as a primer followed by Humbrol clear enamel top coats with nearly identical results as with black enamel. I'm sure blues & grays would make a good base color. In fact that double nozzled spray chrome stuff uses a gray base coat. I've tried white & it looked pathetic. Once the enamel has dried a few hours or a day, I spray very light coats of Alclad, slowing building up the chrome look. If you spray it too heavy, it will look like aluminum. If you don't spray enough coats, it will look like hematite, or whatever that dark grey metallic stone is that they make rings out of. I keep misting on coats until I see very few or no black specks from the black base coat. I'm talking very low air pressure After the final coat, I set the part aside for a couple of weeks to let the enamel fully harden. After that, I wipe the overspray dust & buff it with an old T-shirt. I haven't found any clear that can go on top of Alclad without losing the chrome look. I don't remember if I tried Future, but I don't care for Future because it doesn't dry hard hard enough for my use. You will be able to handle the parts, but repeated pressure or rubbing on the part may remove the chrome. But, those can usually be touched up easily by spraying more Alclad on that spot or even using a brush to apply it. All chrome except body/window trim on these is Alclad. Horn ring, door handles & window cranks are Alclad. You can also use a paint brush to apply Alcad. All the chrome spots on the dash knobs & window cranks were done with a brush, as well as the bezels around the knobs on the dash.

Yeah, here are a few of mine. Horn rings that are about 1-2 scale inches thick. Body colored vent window posts & vent window trim. I cannot say I've seen many, if any, 1:1 cars like that. Shallow body panel lines filled with body colored paint or worse yet, painted black. Scribe the panel lines deeper, & you'll have real shadows, not painted ones. Opening panels that do not close properly. That one, I will never understand. I see very few builds with opening doors that close & blend into the body in a realistic manner. As someone else mentioned, wheels that stick a few scale inches out of the tire. Hubcaps with no evidence of a wheel behind it. Stance is everything.

I like this, Gregg. Thanks for assembling it. John, fantastic work & documentation!

I usually can't stand most 32 Fords, but this one is badass. Great photography, too. Steve

Testor's Acryl is super tough stuff. I've removed some flat black from white resin with Castrol Super Clean, but the resin was tinted gray afterwards. Maybe the 91% alcohol will work. I've sprayed wet coats of lacquer on top of Acryl, & it didn't budge. As I said, tough. It probably could be used as a barrier coat, too.

As Matt said, I live a quite a ways from where the flooding is expected to be. Thanks for the concern! Steve

Lots of great looking land yachts! Here's mine.

Alternating directions between grits is a good way to check the polishing steps. If you switch to the next grit & see marks in the direction of the previous grit, you need to keep it up with that grit until the previous grit's marks are gone. I also read not to use circular polishing motions because circluar scratches are more noticalbe than linear scratches. Makes sense to me.

I did one quite a few years ago for the Modeler Site. Not sure how much it costs to download. http://www.modelersite.com/PDF_Fotos_VI/1949Ford.htm This is the car.

To echo what everyone else has said, "WOW!!" I am truly inspired by your work.

I'm confused. If you have Evercoat filler why are you using Plastic Wood?

As far as accuracy, which company makes a better 36 Ford coupe?