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Everything posted by RickRollerLT1
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1/25 Moebius Tim Flock Hudson Hornet
RickRollerLT1 replied to MicroNitro's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Got the regluar Hudson from the L.I.A.R.S show last month for $20! Don't need to spend anoder $30 on something that i'll not use all the kits parts and customize anyway. Does not appeal, unless I needed one. -
Revell 1956 Chevy Del Ray - Reissue
RickRollerLT1 replied to Erik Smith's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Those wheels do look pretty sweet when installed on other cars, but on the tri-fives they look a tad out of place. They shoulda at least put the "20 mags from the '69 GT500 kit on there to give to a more triditional hot-rod look -
Revell 1956 Chevy Del Ray - Reissue
RickRollerLT1 replied to Erik Smith's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
This is a rerelease of the Cali-wheels kit, which didn't have the del-rays stock tires to be begin with. The first 2001 stock version only had those parts, but are hard to come by. Better off getting the '56 Nomad (which was just released this month), and use the stock tires (which were the ones the del ray used at one time) from it to make a stock Del-Ray. You could still build two kits from what you got, as the Nomad is a true 2-in-1 like the last issue was. -
Yeah, prolly burns because of the fact it costed ya almost $30 and it's a snapper w/ a half engine. I'd cut that shat out, throw in a 454 w/a blower or some crazy F/I setup, and you'll get ya cash worth with som crazy, fast ased lokin wrecker. This is parta the hobby, if it's not perfect, do somethin about it!
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Just got back from there... my former Big-K locatiom hada tona kits, huge display, mostly cars (a good things for us and a few Star Wars kits... quite decent selection and amazing prices! They had: '70 Plymouth Superbird '80 Ford Bronco '85 Mustang SVO Corvette C6 and ZR1 '63 & '64 Impalas Dodge Viper SRT10 'vert and ACR coupe '67 Chevelle SS '69 Mustang '98 Saileen Speedster 1/25th '70 Dodge Challenger '68 Mustang '10 Mustang GT, GT500, and '10 GT convertable snapper Lamborghini Diablo targa top snapper and the VT in the classic crusers line '58 Impala all the '55, '56, and '57 Tri-Fives they've currently have out Classic Crusers kits like the '32 Fords, '82 Corvette, '37 Ford, '55 F-100, Plymouth Prowler, VW Beetle, '64 GTO '06 Dodge Magnum, Chevy SSR, and Aerovette (weren't those discontuned years ago?) '72 Olds Cutlass and Hurst 442's (the first one I got) Monogram SSP reissue kits such as the Street Fighter, Ice T, and T'ranchula. All the glue kits were $14.99, Classic Crusers were $11.49, and the snappers were $9.99! They had more in the diecast car isle, but they were the same ol shat they had for months... with the $18.99 tags on them. I got the Olds Cutlass 2-in-1 and some quick & easy primer all for $25! what you would pay at the LHS just for the kit alone. This is NOT a holiday thing, some locations still have model kits, most with very small slections while others may have squat. Check your local stores around your aera.
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1,000 posts!
RickRollerLT1 replied to Mr. Moparman's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Soon, that count will be OVER 9000!!!!! Sorry, had to use that joke. -
I built one of these about 4 years ago. IIRC, it was the J/L issue w/ Diecast car K-B had for $2.00 before they went under. MY GOD IT WAS HORRIBLE!!!!! Nothing fit at all!; the sloppy ased nosepiece and shoddy decals were the worst parts of the kit. My dad made me get it for the J/L diecast car being they go for almost $8.00 new. (and he's a big collector of them, along with hot wheels and matchbox) However, with some creatative thinking, I was able to MAKE something halfway stellar out of it by simply discarding most of it's contents, aside from the body, body parts, and interior; and using the frame from the Revell '69 Charger and engine compartment from the '68 GTX. Along with combineing two Mitsubishi Eclipse 4-bangers to make some crazy DOHC V8, but failed at it. Oh boy, did it need alot of smoothing and filling out!!! This one was my first experience using putty and while the results were mediocer, it did look better than it did just slapping the parts on like the boxart car has. Unfortunitly, I messed up the paint while applying some gloppy metallic purple, so I took some paint thinner to it. While it was very effective, it melted the body because I found out the hard way paint thinner is too powerfull on styrene. So I scraped the rest and used some of the parts on later projects.
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Cheap ways to save on paint/polshing
RickRollerLT1 replied to RickRollerLT1's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
My LHS is around $6.50 for the colors and $8.00 for the primer. Some other LHS's around me charge between $9-17 for the colors and primers! Due to the issues getting them, and their distrubitors raiseing the prices because import fees went up and such BS. I get Tamiyas colors ocasionaly, but I have tried their primer once and it's pretty good. But not that great for $9.75, and then the amount you get?! I get identical results from the Sears Primer and could obtain 10 cans of it for about $15, and have them last a couple months. -
From what i've seen, it looks like a repop of the 1994 issue with new decals. Not a bad thing certanly, but for the price I was expecting them to at very least retool the engine compartment and add bits from the 78 pick-up the released not too long ago. But that's just Ms picky-Rachile speaking here.
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Monogram Classic Crusers Lamborghini Diablo?
RickRollerLT1 replied to RickRollerLT1's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Hows the Fujumi, Ashoma, and Italeri kits? -
Hey Guys. Incase yer out of tamiya paint and can't find it, or want to try something thats just as good or better and cheaper. LOOK HERE! This is the folowing paints I use Sears "quick 'n easy" primer (costs $1.69 at Sears Hardware or K-Mart) is awsome stuff. It is the best primer I have EVER used!!! Sprays on even and somewhat thick, but drys smooth and dosen't craze the plastic! For the base colors, I use the 99. Wal-Mart/Color Place paints and the Krylon spray paints sold there too for the desired color. Sometimes I use Valspar and/or Rustoluem paints. For sliver painted parts and sometimes bodycolors, I use Dutch Boy ($2.79 at Sears Hardware) and Rustoluem sprays. For the metalic/specal colors, I use hobby paints such as Tamiya, Testors one coat Lacquer (which can range from $4.99-$6.99), Rustolouem, and/or automotive paints (which are around the same price range or less). Instead of using testors or tamiya base primers/base color paints, which are extremely pricey for a base primer/paint (Yeah, saw that topic. Made me feel like not the only one going with cheaper alternitives). I use the big cheap sprays (from wal-mart, Sears, and/or anybody that has those type of paints cheap) for the base primer/color coat, then (if I want) the hobby paints for the metalic/specal colors. For polishing, I use good ol solid white toothpaste (don't get the transparent sparkle stuff) and a rag to polish the painted body/part to be futured. For a clear coat, I use Future Floor Wax (also know as Pledge Floor Wax with Future Shine). Real easy to apply with foam brushes or q-tips and if you mess up, I heard you can strip it with windex. For applying brush painted parts, sometimes q-tips work or buying a cheap brush set from michaels, trimming them and being done with them or clean them. While the Testors sprays are no good (cept the Lacquers) and being Tamiya bottle paints run from $5.50+, the Testors small bottles (and the model masters) are still good for what they are if you can get them for 50%off. Incase your paintjob goes in the other direction, you can use Purple Power as it's the safest of the bunch and very effective on most paints (wear gloves anda mask though). Hope this helps. Be well all V,
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AMT's 63 IMPY does come to mind. Why, cause the 2003 issue I built (and thankfully only paid .50 on clearence for) looked like an imp!!! Revell's kit from 2000 (and recently issued as the Cali-wheels 2-in-1) Is MILES ahead of that 'ol POS, though the only thing wrong is the molded head/intake manuifold that gets ploped ontop of the engine. But using the '64's parts solves that issue.
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Does this bring back any memories?
RickRollerLT1 replied to rhs856's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
how much did you pay for it? -
Too many letters and numbahs!!!
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The Johan Kits can be built stock if you use an AMT '70 Challenger for the chassis and maybe the motor. Along with possibly using the AMT/ERTL 74 Cuda Snapper for the interior (with some light moding) and the wheels.
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Yeah, but the point I was trying to get across is that it wouldn't be very expensive for revell-o-gram to retool their 69 charger intoa '70. Plus resin & I didn't get along too well on our first date... she got mad because I tried cleaning 'er hood in PP and she deformed on me, and said "**** you!!"
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Top 10 new/reissued kits for 2011
RickRollerLT1 replied to ranma's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
WOW!!!! I never knew how unprofesional and plain cheesy THAT boxart was!!! Untill now... Maybe they were ina hurry that day and just said "Y'know what, **** the boxart!! My company cant afford **** to get the art done by a greedy azzed company! We'll jus use mircosoft paint to finish it and get it out so nobody cries if they don't get their product" -
Top 10 new/reissued kits for 2011
RickRollerLT1 replied to ranma's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
My top 11 for '11! 11: Corvette ZR1 (Retool) 10: Dodge Viper SRT10 ACR (Retool) 9: 1970 Plymouth Superbird (Reissue) 8: '85 Mustang SVO Coupe (Backdate retool from '93 Mustang SVT and 92' GT Convertable kits) 7: AMT Diamond Rio Conventional 6: Moebous Hudson Hornet 5: International Lonestar Conventional 4: (Tie) Revell Snap Tite Lamborghini Diablo Targa and Classic Crusers Diablo VT 3: Revell '10 Shelby GT500 2: Revell '10 Mustang Convertable 1: Revell AG Volkswagon Golf (I only got the tuner series issue, does that count?)