RickRollerLT1

At least that would be better than the $45-70 i've seen them normally fetch (including the 1990s reissue, which I was fortunate enough to nab at $20 back in June)

Of course, when I just nabbed a Matchbox issue of the custom version for $15 ata show today, NOW THEY'RE PLANNING TO RE RELEASE IT! All we need is the MPC 82 Toyota Celica to release (sure the molds still exist complete) and the 80s Japanese sports car trio with the 280zx and the Monogram RX7 will be finish! What would also be nice to see if the molds exist, and are in good shape, is the MPC Toyota 2000 GT convertible as that hasn't been seen in a long time, plus they could brand it as an 007 product (the car was in YOLT) to increase sales potential. Also wouldn't hurt to repop the F&F Supras while they're at it, branded as Bomex and Veilside kits respectively if they cannot get the F&F licence (hey, they're rereleasing stuff they put out almost 10yrs ago, so whats so wrong about releasing Supras without the F&F branding?

I don't know if any our fellow islanders have post anything yet and I'm not the one in charge of it, but it doesn't seem like anyone mentioned it already so I'll go ahead. Just a heads up about our show/swap meet to those who are in east coast or near New York. Its next Saturday November 11 at Freeport Recreational Center, 130 East Merrick Road, Freeport, NY from 9:00 AM-4:00 PM. This is the 25th anniversary of our club, the Long Island Automotive Society (L.I.A.R.S), and we will be having a special anniversary theme that is any car painted Tamiya Silver Leaf TS-30 and with a 2 or 5 in the make year (eg. car is from 1962, 1965, the 20's, the 50's, etc). More info including directions and contest rules are explained on our downloadable PDF fliers here: http://www.liarsmodelcarbuilders.com/#!events For those who are on Long Island and want to have something to do on Thursdays, we meet every third Thursday of the month at the Henrietta Acampora Recreational Center on 39 Montauk Hwy, Blue Point, NY. If interested, contact Rich Argus @ r.argus@juno.net Hope to see some of you at the show!

That may have been a few years ago, recently I saw one selling for $50 sealed and the original 1992 snap-tite issue was $40 from ModelCarMountian, yet I paid abour $20 for mine at Daves back almost 10 years ago.

Have two of them, but the Revell one holds a place in my heart as its one of the 1st builds at a time when my skills were starting to improve. I got the 1999 issue at Daves Hobby in Freeport as it was the only place I ever saw one there (at the time). After moving around and such, its in pieces but is almost complete for a resto as i'm missing the suspension and dashboard.

Bummer Looks like the sky high ebay prices will rule once again. At least the RX7 is still happening, so far.

I'm still scratching my head as to why they leaked instructions for a kit that seemed to be never released. Anyone know Ed Saxtons email address? He would be the one to know if the NSX is still planning to be released, but bits got leaked early, or was planned but somehow canceled.

OH MAN OH MAN OH MAN OH MAN!!! Is there any other information regarding this kit? I saw a 2015 copyright, so I hope it wasn't something that got canceled, or maybe they're pushing it to a different date. Hopefully, the Mazda Miata, 93 Civic and Civic hatchback aren't too far from being announced.

The BM Corvette was last seen as the California Wheels Corvette coupe, and had almost all the BM parts with a few extras, but with exception of the goodyear tires (mags were still on the tree though) and decals. I suspect this will be a 2 in 1 repop of the Cali Wheels but with the correct wheels + tires and decals restored for Baldwin Motion car.

Tower says late January for the RX7, not too long of a wait since I got a backlog of stuff to tackle at!

Dat 78' Mazda RX7... NUFF SAID! When's the street date? My dad built one back in the day but its in pieces and Ebay prices are completely insane. Normally, I only buy one new kit because of current SRPs, but this is an exception as I will get 3 of them one to keep mint in case the value shoots up again. They and Round 2 are killing it with the rereleases of the 70s era Japanese cars. I hope we get some of the later stuff like the MPC 82 Toyota Celica and the AMT Datsun 280zx turbo from R2. Revell should bring back out the snapper Acura NSX and the really nice Mazda Miata w/ engine (both are going for real crazy dough on the 'bay). While at it, they should also repop the 99 Honda Civic hatchback and 93' Civic coupe under the F&F moniker.

Black is easy peasy to prime without bleedthrough unlike reds. I do have my eyes on the Datsun pickup. Since all that issue has is 4x4 monster truck suspension stuff, a street custom can be still made from it.

Even though this rendition dosen't reflect a "real' 70 R/T going by the 69 rear (for now until an SE 2 in 1 comes out sooner or later), at least all the non R/T/SS guys can get creative and make their plain jane 318 cars with the F&F kit instead of moanin about things. Gotta agree with Alex, the griping and personal attacks are the reasons why I'm not on here often. People cannot be thankful for anything and gripe if the smallest thing is wrong or not right (though the 90 Mustang LX roof is still kinda funky while the monograms made in the 80s/90s got it closer). I dealt with the madness on CLG (Closing Logos Group) Wiki with the trolls and users who think rare logo findings are fake and demote everyone, but now i see these people are all over the internet.

With my Firebird paint problem I posted a while back, I tried every single trick in the book and the red was showing through the white. When I tried the duplicolor that got rid of it but crazed like a siv requiring a strip job. I tired the Walmart gray primer followed by the white on a red molded hood like Snake did and it still showed through (tell me, how did you not get the pink cast showing through?). The only thing that worked for me without crazing was Rustoluem Automotive primer SEALER. That covered the red without bleed through and allowed me to put the Wal-Mart gloss white on without a hitch as seen here (sorry for the kinda grainy pic, but you see the point). So in a way, how opaque your primer is does matter but some can be way too hot on plastic as i've learned (the wal-mart gray also crazed the red hood i tested). I usually use the Sears/K-Mart primer as that gives good results but seems to be prone to bleed through no matter what. But now i know what to do on red/yellow molded stuff in the future so its all a matter of trial and error.

The MPC/AMT C4s are decent builders (the ZR1s have nicely detailed but chromed DOHC LT5s), but for the master detailers out there they have slightly simplified suspensions and some versions have issues with body proportions and molded mirrors. The Monograms are very nice, but the hood fitment on all variations is extremely finicky (Calloway Speedster comes to mind) And if your kit happens to have a badly warped hood, then good luck getting it to at least seat right

I just got back with the New 83 Hurst Olds from Michaels for $18 w/ phone coupon (they graciously took!)

Tom, that's what I did at ACM. They seem to be more fickle with coupons than Michales, but from time to time they carry a random Revell/AMT kit you normally don't see at big boxes (Porsche 914-6, Datsun 240z BRE, 70 Sox and Martian Cudaetc). On a positive note, I just got back with the New 83 Hurst Olds from Michaels for $18 (with a retailmenot phone coupon they graciously took!)

I tried it one time with a ACM coupon from my email on the phone and the cashier said the coupons were fake as they lacked a barcode... yet there was one RIGHT THERE IN PLAIN FLIPPIN SIGHT!!! While most places accept coupons phone coupons digital form (even from 3rd party apps like RetailMeNot), ether the local ACM doesn't from their own, or the girl that day wanted to clock out instead of staying after her shift. To the point, I usually bring circular coupons whenever I go there as it seems its easier for them to take those, along with the fact there are some who think that anything digital is fake and get nasty if you tell them that this store accepts them, but they don't know how/or don't want to.

Are the General (Custer) Lees on clearance yet? Since R2 discontinued then, they are still 21.99 at the last store I checked. Gasman, is that all the new stock they just got in? What others did you see? Kinda related to craft stores, I did see the new Revell '67 Nickey Camaro at an AC Moore yesterday but lacked the magical circular coupon, so hopefully they still have it before itsa gone!

Thanks guys! Like I said, I looked up every single search about bleedthrough and just tried about everything in the book. For the newer plastics bit, yeah I noticed that when I used to use Krylon Fusion during my early days. It took a while to find a good cheap primer to handle that plastic type, but then I found the K-mart primer I use doesn't craze it, so that became my standard primer as its equal to Tamiya Fine Primer and more efficient at cost. Its not just this generation of kits with this phenomenon, as there's a lot of older kits (80s Revell Ciji and some retail sold MPC kits like the KITT) with plastic so "thin" in some spots, you could put finger underneath and it would show through! My Firebird's plastic is kinda thin being a SnapTite meant for retail (there was a story about how model manufactures used better plastic for the kits sold at hobby shops but lesser grade for the big boxes) , so that may be why the Duplicolor crazed it. I will be trying Rustoluem automotive primer/sealer as its enamel/lacquer (same type as the K-mart stuff I use), so crazing may not be as much of an issue unlike the Duplicolor.

Normally I mix and match various paint brands and get very good results. I would first prime with the cheap Quick and Easy primer, then to cover the gray for good measure I lay down Wal-mart Colorplace flat white for bright glossy colors or flat black for glossy blacks or metallics. For the bright colors, the final coats over the flat white will ether be Colorplace gloss white, red, blue, or sometimes the Tamiya/Rustoluem/Valspar/Krylon gloss variety for different colors like yellows, etc. On top of the flat black coat, its gloss black or a Rustoluem silver base coat to put Tamiya or Krylon X metals over. No reactions or ill effects at all with this method. But in this instance I kept paint brands the same for safety measures because I was told "you can't go wrong sticking with the same brands". Well, everything's going wrong here! I tried the silver trick again, this time with Duplicolors on a spare red piece and the same thing happened! I will try the Tamiya trick too but I doubt that would work ether, since the same thing happened with my standard paint methods.

I tried that too as I mentioned in the 1st post (not Tamiya). Still had the bleed through and I tried everything! I will be trying the Rustoluem Primer/Sealer next.

I do everything with light coats at first then go heavier. But in this case, because the crazing was starting after the initial light spray, I knew more coats wouldn't cover it (no pun intended). After letting it dry for 2 days, I sanded the 1st Duplicolor coat then applied another coat and the crazing still happened! I figured the crazing would go away once tie color is on, so I let it dry fully, then sanded AGAIN and tried Duplicolor Gloss white (with light coats), gave me extreme wrinkling (or what looked like major orange peel) but hardly any red bleed. Thankfully, the DP stripped off because I got to it quickly before the coats fully cured and etched into the body. So attempt 2: Being I have a can of Tamiya Fine Primer I got when it was cheaper a few years ago, I also tried the Tamiya Primer suggestion the 2nd poster brought up. The 1st coat bleed like the standard Q&E primer I was using, so I knew that wouldn't go well ether. I will also try Rustoluem Automotive primer/sealer, as that's enamel/lacquer like the K-mart stuff so I shouldn't get heavy crazing like the Duplicolor. I'm a little scared about putting Duplicoat primer over Testors Lacquers Primer. The latter I believe are actually Enamel-lacquers, and being Duplicolor is full Lacquer, I would smell a bad reaction happening. But if it works for you and it is proven, I may give it a shot (hopefully is isn't more money wasted... like I have a wad of cash burning in my pocket right now!). Could it be this dammed plastic they were using back then has some crazy dye in it? Lucky for you, Yellow isn't as chaotic as red molded bodies and most metallic colors cover up its bleedthrough, so those are easier for you. As I said before, this is not extremely critical as its a test for future projects, and being I have another white molded body for my White 2JZ project the red molded body will be used to rebuild my red 2JZ powered Firebird from 2009.

As with all spray paints (especially Testors) you should start with light coats at a distance (not too close to the body, but not super far ether) then hit it heavier. Additional care should be made under high humidity conditions.

I have bodies that are molded in red (like the Monogram '85 Fiero GT and the Revell '93 Firebird Trans Am SnapTite) and would like to paint them a bright color like White or Light Blue. Yes, I prime my bodies (K-Mart Quick and Easy Gray Primer, almost flawless results otherwise) and yada yada, but I have experienced in the past the red molded color spectrum (like dark red, pink, etc) bleeds through turning giving a pinkish hue (bleed through). This also occurs with Yellow and bright Greens too, also giving a yellowish bleedthrough. I have done many topic searches and tried many tricks, including one of spraying silver or flat brown as a neutral color on the body then primer and the color, bleedthrough would still occur at the silver or the even the gray primer coat. I even tried the Future trick, as not only it still bleed through the primer but it reacted with the Future coat that fully dried for 3 days, causing severe wrinkling. I even got a can of Duplicolor Automotive Primer/Sealer and while that seemed to do the trick, it caused such severe crazing on the Firebird body that sanding and additional coats made it worse (It should strip off, hopefully). Are there any proven ways to overcome this paintbump? At worst, I could paint the other one red or black and use a spare white molded Firebird/TA body for my project. But when I do future projects molded in red and yellow and want to paint them bright colors without bleedthrough hues, then without spare white molded bodies I'd be SOL unless its gonna be black or matching the molded color.