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Everything posted by RickRollerLT1

  1. The repoped Datsun monster truck is MPC, which makes me hope the Celica and a few others aren't too far down the line.
  2. At least that would be better than the $45-70 i've seen them normally fetch (including the 1990s reissue, which I was fortunate enough to nab at $20 back in June)
  3. Of course, when I just nabbed a Matchbox issue of the custom version for $15 ata show today, NOW THEY'RE PLANNING TO RE RELEASE IT! All we need is the MPC 82 Toyota Celica to release (sure the molds still exist complete) and the 80s Japanese sports car trio with the 280zx and the Monogram RX7 will be finish! What would also be nice to see if the molds exist, and are in good shape, is the MPC Toyota 2000 GT convertible as that hasn't been seen in a long time, plus they could brand it as an 007 product (the car was in YOLT) to increase sales potential. Also wouldn't hurt to repop the F&F Su
  4. I don't know if any our fellow islanders have post anything yet and I'm not the one in charge of it, but it doesn't seem like anyone mentioned it already so I'll go ahead. Just a heads up about our show/swap meet to those who are in east coast or near New York. Its next Saturday November 11 at Freeport Recreational Center, 130 East Merrick Road, Freeport, NY from 9:00 AM-4:00 PM. This is the 25th anniversary of our club, the Long Island Automotive Society (L.I.A.R.S), and we will be having a special anniversary theme that is any car painted Tamiya Silver Leaf TS-30 and with a 2 or 5 in the
  5. That may have been a few years ago, recently I saw one selling for $50 sealed and the original 1992 snap-tite issue was $40 from ModelCarMountian, yet I paid abour $20 for mine at Daves back almost 10 years ago.
  6. Have two of them, but the Revell one holds a place in my heart as its one of the 1st builds at a time when my skills were starting to improve. I got the 1999 issue at Daves Hobby in Freeport as it was the only place I ever saw one there (at the time). After moving around and such, its in pieces but is almost complete for a resto as i'm missing the suspension and dashboard.
  7. Bummer Looks like the sky high ebay prices will rule once again. At least the RX7 is still happening, so far.
  8. I'm still scratching my head as to why they leaked instructions for a kit that seemed to be never released. Anyone know Ed Saxtons email address? He would be the one to know if the NSX is still planning to be released, but bits got leaked early, or was planned but somehow canceled.
  9. OH MAN OH MAN OH MAN OH MAN!!! Is there any other information regarding this kit? I saw a 2015 copyright, so I hope it wasn't something that got canceled, or maybe they're pushing it to a different date. Hopefully, the Mazda Miata, 93 Civic and Civic hatchback aren't too far from being announced.
  10. The BM Corvette was last seen as the California Wheels Corvette coupe, and had almost all the BM parts with a few extras, but with exception of the goodyear tires (mags were still on the tree though) and decals. I suspect this will be a 2 in 1 repop of the Cali Wheels but with the correct wheels + tires and decals restored for Baldwin Motion car.
  11. Tower says late January for the RX7, not too long of a wait since I got a backlog of stuff to tackle at!
  12. Dat 78' Mazda RX7... NUFF SAID! When's the street date? My dad built one back in the day but its in pieces and Ebay prices are completely insane. Normally, I only buy one new kit because of current SRPs, but this is an exception as I will get 3 of them one to keep mint in case the value shoots up again. They and Round 2 are killing it with the rereleases of the 70s era Japanese cars. I hope we get some of the later stuff like the MPC 82 Toyota Celica and the AMT Datsun 280zx turbo from R2. Revell should bring back out the snapper Acura NSX and the really nice Mazda Miata w/ engine (both are g
  13. Black is easy peasy to prime without bleedthrough unlike reds. I do have my eyes on the Datsun pickup. Since all that issue has is 4x4 monster truck suspension stuff, a street custom can be still made from it.
  14. Even though this rendition dosen't reflect a "real' 70 R/T going by the 69 rear (for now until an SE 2 in 1 comes out sooner or later), at least all the non R/T/SS guys can get creative and make their plain jane 318 cars with the F&F kit instead of moanin about things. Gotta agree with Alex, the griping and personal attacks are the reasons why I'm not on here often. People cannot be thankful for anything and gripe if the smallest thing is wrong or not right (though the 90 Mustang LX roof is still kinda funky while the monograms made in the 80s/90s got it closer). I dealt with the madness
  15. With my Firebird paint problem I posted a while back, I tried every single trick in the book and the red was showing through the white. When I tried the duplicolor that got rid of it but crazed like a siv requiring a strip job. I tired the Walmart gray primer followed by the white on a red molded hood like Snake did and it still showed through (tell me, how did you not get the pink cast showing through?). The only thing that worked for me without crazing was Rustoluem Automotive primer SEALER. That covered the red without bleed through and allowed me to put the Wal-Mart gloss white on without
  16. The MPC/AMT C4s are decent builders (the ZR1s have nicely detailed but chromed DOHC LT5s), but for the master detailers out there they have slightly simplified suspensions and some versions have issues with body proportions and molded mirrors. The Monograms are very nice, but the hood fitment on all variations is extremely finicky (Calloway Speedster comes to mind) And if your kit happens to have a badly warped hood, then good luck getting it to at least seat right
  17. I just got back with the New 83 Hurst Olds from Michaels for $18 w/ phone coupon (they graciously took!)
  18. Tom, that's what I did at ACM. They seem to be more fickle with coupons than Michales, but from time to time they carry a random Revell/AMT kit you normally don't see at big boxes (Porsche 914-6, Datsun 240z BRE, 70 Sox and Martian Cudaetc). On a positive note, I just got back with the New 83 Hurst Olds from Michaels for $18 (with a retailmenot phone coupon they graciously took!)
  19. I tried it one time with a ACM coupon from my email on the phone and the cashier said the coupons were fake as they lacked a barcode... yet there was one RIGHT THERE IN PLAIN FLIPPIN SIGHT!!! While most places accept coupons phone coupons digital form (even from 3rd party apps like RetailMeNot), ether the local ACM doesn't from their own, or the girl that day wanted to clock out instead of staying after her shift. To the point, I usually bring circular coupons whenever I go there as it seems its easier for them to take those, along with the fact there are some who think that anything digital
  20. Are the General (Custer) Lees on clearance yet? Since R2 discontinued then, they are still 21.99 at the last store I checked. Gasman, is that all the new stock they just got in? What others did you see? Kinda related to craft stores, I did see the new Revell '67 Nickey Camaro at an AC Moore yesterday but lacked the magical circular coupon, so hopefully they still have it before itsa gone!
  21. Thanks guys! Like I said, I looked up every single search about bleedthrough and just tried about everything in the book. For the newer plastics bit, yeah I noticed that when I used to use Krylon Fusion during my early days. It took a while to find a good cheap primer to handle that plastic type, but then I found the K-mart primer I use doesn't craze it, so that became my standard primer as its equal to Tamiya Fine Primer and more efficient at cost. Its not just this generation of kits with this phenomenon, as there's a lot of older kits (80s Revell Ciji and some retail sold MPC kits like th
  22. Normally I mix and match various paint brands and get very good results. I would first prime with the cheap Quick and Easy primer, then to cover the gray for good measure I lay down Wal-mart Colorplace flat white for bright glossy colors or flat black for glossy blacks or metallics. For the bright colors, the final coats over the flat white will ether be Colorplace gloss white, red, blue, or sometimes the Tamiya/Rustoluem/Valspar/Krylon gloss variety for different colors like yellows, etc. On top of the flat black coat, its gloss black or a Rustoluem silver base coat to put Tamiya or Krylon X
  23. I tried that too as I mentioned in the 1st post (not Tamiya). Still had the bleed through and I tried everything! I will be trying the Rustoluem Primer/Sealer next.
  24. I do everything with light coats at first then go heavier. But in this case, because the crazing was starting after the initial light spray, I knew more coats wouldn't cover it (no pun intended). After letting it dry for 2 days, I sanded the 1st Duplicolor coat then applied another coat and the crazing still happened! I figured the crazing would go away once tie color is on, so I let it dry fully, then sanded AGAIN and tried Duplicolor Gloss white (with light coats), gave me extreme wrinkling (or what looked like major orange peel) but hardly any red bleed. Thankfully, the DP stripped off beca
  25. As with all spray paints (especially Testors) you should start with light coats at a distance (not too close to the body, but not super far ether) then hit it heavier. Additional care should be made under high humidity conditions.
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