RickRollerLT1

I myself have gotten alot of kits that had bonuses, other extras, different parts, or sometimes, an unexpected surprise! I once bought a Revell Peterbilt 359 from Michaels that contained a free issue of SA (the Sep '11 issue) along with a subscription fill-out forum under the instruction sheet. Being I allready had that issue, I brought it to the club mtg to give away as a frebee, then a member wanted to pay cover price for my unused copy cause his got coffee spilt all over it from the LHS owner when he was reading it, but only took $2 off cover price for his own sloppy mistake! So along with paying $12 for a truck model and an issue of SA, I made back about $6 off the mag. Another time was where I bought an open '04 AMT GTO on clearence for a buck with coupon @ Michaels. The box was s**t crammed packed and was heavily taped up. As I was curious with what used napkins or poor built-ups were in there, taking a peek would be difficult without having them think I was gonna steal it!. After paying for it, I opened the sucker up and along with the kit being mostly complete, contained an Monogram '69 Super Bee kit sealed in the bags crammed in along with: - 15 bottles of Testors paint in various colors, but luckly the ones I use alot - 50 Testors brushes - 5 tubes of glue - Two sets of '22 wire wheels w/ tires, I believe from Revellograms '86 Monte Carlo - and lastly, i'm not kidding here guys, a RUBBER DUCKY toy! Quack Quack!!! At that price, shiz here is a steal!

Purple Power.

Thats because they used the stock dash from the panal van kit, which has some different parts. The 1994 release, which was the first retool of the kit, contains a different modular dashboard which the decal was ment for (decals date to the '94 release). Somehow they must've mixed tooling between the last release of the pickup (2005; Basic Buliders) and panal van (2008 Revell AG boxed issue of Harely Davidson Van made in CHINA of course!) because some parts from the latter kit, such as the tri-carb intake, panal van windows, different side pipes, and stock dash are present (but no modluar dash), as previous releases of the P/U omitted them. I susgest modfying the unit you got or scratchbuilding one, or if you must, get an '94 older release of the P/U that (should) contain the correct part.

The problem here is the Rustoluem clear, while enamal based, contains a different formula that uses hotter and stronger cemicals. The color you said you applied was Testors colors by Boyds enamal, which is a hobby grade paint for model styrene use and is cemicaly "softer". So "hotter, over "softer" can lead to major issues that can be avoided with the right painting steps. If you use a hobby-grade paint as a primer/color coat, then the color must be within the same formula/grade. EG: Testors over Testors, Tamiya over tamiya, etc. But if you use a "hotter" paint over the "softer" paint, like Rustoluem, Krylon, Colorplace, Valspar & so on. THIS IS A NO-NO!! However, you can apply say, the hotter paint then the softer one over it and you'll get good resolts (but remember about what paint types that can be applied over one another, such as enamal, acrylic, lacquer, the like) Heres one more hint, on the next primed (or reprimed) body, apply a coat of the hotter grade primer of your choise that wont craze the plastic, then hit it with the color coat (ether hobby or hotter), then the hobby paint of your choice and the clear, but THAT MUST match up with the brand of the hobby paint or formula grade or you'll get problems again. Or, you can go to your local supermarket or department store and in the cleaning sections, pick up a bottle o' some Pledge floor wax with future shine (AKA, the famous future everyone uses on here). This stuff is acrylic based, but can be applied almost over anything and every surface. And can be applied from the bottle with a cotton ball, q-tip, brush, or as some people do it, with an airbrush at high PSI or whatever works for you. The stuff is watery, but with quick even coats it can get the job done. One thing you must watch out for when using Future, SPIDER CRACKS on the surface! This happens when the paint underneath is not fully cured enough (usealy happens with testors and most enamals; must be cured for almost 3 weeks before applying future), or when the uncoated surface is greasy or contains other containminates to form a reaction with the future.

Wasn't that blue one orginaly made from the "Stingray" car, seen in Monogram & Revell boxes?

Ah, though it was a GS. Been so long since i've seen that one. TNX for the pics.

I once saw a meduim sized display of model kits out of all places, Fashon Bug! This was around the holiday season of 2007. IIRC, they had lots of kits like the AMT Proshop, JL packs, trucks, and 3-kit packs that KB had, along with Revell car kits that were exact to what Big Lots carried at that time! Cars were $7, trucks were $15, and the threepacks were $18. My mom wouldn't let me buy them because they were all the ones I got from KB, but there were some trucks at hawt prices I havent seen @ KB, like the KW cabover & T600, GMC Astro & Bison, Ford Louisville, Peterbilt 359, wrecker, and 352, etc. Tired telling her that there were ones I didn't get, but she didn't want to buy them cause she didn't feel like putting them on the mastercard, but spent $266 in clothes on the card anyway.

Monogram '64-65 Mustang & 70 Chevelle SS (AMT also did one, and was redone with a new body in the mid 90s)

Ima talking about the Sunoco racing one from 2006 (the one in blue & yellow, w/ side pipes)

Ah, so thats why the Shadows/Sundances were popluar with 18-35yr olds back a decade ago. Cause they got their "stuff" and drug money by beating the ###### out of them, and making the stuff with the rusted parts. If they still got some, I WANT IT!! LOL!! J/K.

Wut happened to the Revell 1/25th VW Bug that was in the catalog under the Classic Crusers line? Did they cancel it because it wasn't too "Basic" enough for the line? Or did they finally sell the mold to a crazy scrap metal company in bejing to make Ipads for AssAppple

Watch out for extreme warpage on the frame, that bugger can be real nasty to untwist, expically when trying to fit the completed frame to the body during final assembly. I had that problem on two I built. First one was the Revell AG kit I tried my hand @ 4yrs ago, which I cracked the body during final fitiment ($40 down the crapper! ), and the US reboxed version I got for $7 on clearence, which I just finished and will post in the under glass thread soon.

I though this kit was a retooled Monogram Vette like the Sunoco one from a few years ago. Then as I crused down this topic, I relized this was a reboxed kit by a company i've never heard of before, plus didn't know about this kit and how detailed it is untill now. In my entire 7yr span of pouring glue, I've haven't seen one of the AM kits in person, EVER. LHS has the Revell boxed issue for $22.79, but i'll wait & see if I can get the AM issue @ NNL East for less than $20 cause prolly the revell boxed ones will be floddin' the market.

Wasn't this kit last seen in 2000 under AMT's "Millennuim" series? I heard this release will be a 3-in-1 restoring the salt flat racing parts, which most of the reissues ommitted. I can still find the 2000 issue for less than $20, so if this new release isn't gonna fix the flash and door issues. And the only new features it'll have are extra parts anda $28.99 tag, i'll stick with older releases that useally go for far less.

IIRC, I think this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/Revell-Cobra-Mustang-II-Model-Kit-H-1345-1-25-scale-street-racer-kit6-/310383192620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item484447aa2c was in the Hot Rod series also.

I've had that happen a few times too on some colors, was there any moisture or residue on the body prior to the coat of diamond dust? I believe that may be your problem judging by the pic. I've had bad batches of paint where the mixture wasn't correct and etc., but never this.

My store had testors airplanes on clearence when I was there a few weeks ago, but yesterday I noticed they got some new revell ones and a battletank in place. Does this mean the other stores started their reset? I'd like to know if they gots anything new.

Now excuse me while take my daily dose of Advil and Mikes Hard Lemonade, while looking at this guys so-called "PRO-BUILT" kits he has listed. Lordy!

I'ves heard about this kit, saying what a POC it was. But some built-ups i've seen of this here indicate this kit look pretty detailed, but may be a major pain to put together. I saw one at a show for $7 but I didn't know if it was a good kit or not. Is this kit worth getting? even to do som crazy custom with a ford SVT 5.0 motor?

I noticed this too last time I was michaels. Though this isn't just at michaels as I was at an LHS a week ago, and all the Revell kits he had were the same prices as michaels now charges. Even the LHS I stop at usally that sells kits $2-5 off MSRP, raised his prices a bit (EG, 22.49 now 24.79), but only on the new stuff he gets.... Unless he gets another case of EG, plymouth superbird that he paid a bit more than the last case he got in the summer, the older stock he has when he gets in new stock with newer pricing gets the new strickers. I was talking with him when I bought a revell '64 goat and he said revell increased their prices on all their kits by about 20%, due to rising production costs and increasing liecensing fees (SIGH... as the manufactures just ALLWAYS put ) AC More also increased their prices too, Snap kits and round 2 products are now $26.99 and revells glue kits are now $31.99! HOLY ######!!!!

I thank I remember this film. saw it on Tv recently... only good thing were the car chases and shots of the car... rest waz your typical 70's mush and gruff... but after seeing the bland comedy of 2 & a half men and this, i'd take 70's corn flakes anyday.

Sounds like the primer underneath your using is causing some kind of reaction when the Krylon is being applied. I almost allways had this issue when I used the Colorplace primer and even krylons own primer! When I made the switch to sears primer, this problem never happened and the paint, even ontop od the colorplace colors, allways dired rock hard after a day ina half. True to a certian extent, but no were near as horrid as those Testors enamal sprays! Krylon's colors can still be used if using a different brand primer, color coat, and clear with it. If using krylons primer and clear products, then your in for a living hell! When Testors changed their fourmula in their enamal sprays about 6 yrs ago, the quality drasticly went down. Believe me when I mention I tested out spraying a new (crica 2007) can of Testors Orange on a bare plastic part and a primered one, and comparing the resoluts with another part/s sprayed with an older (crica 1995) can of the same color. (both cans were warmed up) With the new can, it spat out some orange and white stuff, made it bubbly, and gave it a flat orange-peely serface. While the older can gave it a nice serface with mild orange peel. IIRC, my dad paid $2.50 for that back in the day, while the new can I got was $5.99 but "costed" $3.50 with a discount (thank god!)

I've decided to change my screenname... Thats one bit of a new years resolution getting done. I was getting tired the current one anyway, so a change is nice. Don't worry guys, same person, new name, but the name wasn't changed 'cause I'ma pedofork and I have 200 dead bodies in my basement (LOL, J/K). So whoulda thank?

What type of paint formula is used in their paints? i've seen some nice colors in their line-up, but I need to know if they're enamal, acrylic, or lacquer based?

BTW, sears hardware will do the same thing. So i'd get your mom or dad with ya, or pray the girl at the regester is an I-crack addict... who barely cares whats going on around him/herself rather than the song that is playing.