RickRollerLT1

As per the NEW 5-photo rule, more pics on this next post: BTW, if anybody has been expereinceing problems with photobucket (which i have), the problem is that all the (rather susgestive and outright dumb) ads that play on the site, which 99.97% of the time cause it to jam up to the point where I have to close everything out, reopen and reupload EVERYTHING AGAIN!!!!! IT IS SO ******* ANNOYING!! (took me an hour to post this; yeah thats how bad it was)

Mods: Scratchbuilt the bed and overhead bar, added lightbars ontop, compartment boxes under the frame, and mudflaps (w/licence plate). Streched the frame with a spare one from another Cameo kit, and added suspension units from a '93 Caprice (front) and a peterbilt 359 (rear axle w/ airbags). wheels are from the revell 70's GMC wrecker snap kit with front tires from the aftermentioned caprice kit (rears are what came with the wrecker). This was the '57 Chevy P/U street machine (as per the engine and sidepipes), but I had extra parts from a '55 Cameo, so i used those parts to backdate it to the older model (which I like better stylewise). Paint is Valspar Yellow cleared with future and polished with toothpaste.

Second is the Pro Street version built OOB, cept for different front wheels because the ones it came with had big holes in 'em... Like someone took a dremil to it because they were pizzed that day or something like that. Paint is Dutch Boy Sliver Polished to aluminum and is futured. Group photo (5th and final photo!)

Hey guys. Sorry it's been a while since I posted anything, was busy with life and things . My sister had the camara back then so i wasn't able to get pics at the moment... now that shes don with it, I can have at it again. Anyway... OKAY DOKAY then! First up is the recently issued Caliwheels version built OOB back in april. Nutin' speical about this one, cept I didn't have to modify anything! This one was perfiect in terms of ride hight, wheels, good looking motor and etc.). Final assembly is kinda tricky, but doable with trimming and such. Paint is Colorplace Gloss Black (works like a charm for .97) with future ontop, and polished with toothpaste.

For those who shop at K-mart (all stores) they put all their spray paint on clearence. For now it's 25% off, but expect more markdowns soon as it's a storewide thing... Good time to stock up while it lasts! Are they permenitly getting rid of the isle alltogether? or are they getting in Rustoluem and Plastikote products to replace it? If their gonna stop selling paint alltogether, it dosen't really bother me because Sears hardware has more of what I need (primers, slivers, and etc) anyway. Unless they change/redo their slection, then i'm in trouble.

I know the regluar sears stores don't havea paint section any more, but sears hardware and K-mart do and they both have the "quick & easy" line at their stores. I last picked up some primer at sears hardware a week ago with fresh stock, so they're definitly still produceing them. I dunno, maybe the stores in your aera don't carry them anymore because making money off hot, teen idol products is more importaint to them.

That's good to know, but sadly i don't have a dollar tree near me.

just curious, but what is SEM? sorry don't mean to bug anyone.

Sadly, I don't think we'll be seeing any tamiya paints for a while (I liked the candy green they had). My LHS still has some tamiya paints, but his supply is getting low and hasen't seen anything from them (including the primers) since March. IIRC, one HS I went to a while back had a few cans left for around 15-20 bucks!! (Yikes!) I'd suggest looking for an good alternitive primer if paying $20-30 a pop for tamiya primer isn't for you, or your wallet. (if it is and you gotta have it, then go ahead) I've heard many people had great results from Dupicolor, Plastikote, and (some) Rustoluem primers. But if you're on a tight paint budget and looking for very cheap good alternitives (though the latter ones arent so much, but in more units the $$$ adds up). I use Sears "Quick & Easy" Gray primer. It works very well over bare styrene, sprays on nicely and drys quick & smooth (almost no sanding needed); cheap ($1.70 for a 12oz can) and easy to get at yer nearest K-mart or Sears Hardware store. They also had white and red primers, which are no longer being produced anymore (sniff, sniff... I really liked them too). But Flat White (I use the colorplace brand, which works very well) works as a bright basecoat for gloss white, yellows, reds, blues and so on/ If you like it, you can stock up on 12 cans that will last you a long way for less than $16! which is the price of Tamiya primer if you can find it.

Good, but still a bit too pricey for me. I'll wait till an LHS has it for $25 or less, or hopeing (but i'm not gonna count my chicken on it) that Michaels or AC Moore will (not likely) carry it in the next 6 years!!

What's the MSRP on this one and the 300? Hopefully they won't be $50 because it's a totaly new subject like trumpitors Falcon.

Really awesome stuff!!! I find it works much faster and is safer than DOT-3. Had a '70 camaro kit that was missing the body, but then I realized I had one from a junk build many years ago. So I found the oldie camaro body that was painted with Colorplace Kelly Green n the bare body that crazed badly, then cleared with Krylon Krystal Krappy Klear and made things worse. So I let it sit in the purple bath for a day or so, and the body was gray plastic again with no damage to it whatsoever from the paint! I've soaked bodys in the Purple pond that were painted with Testors, Tamiya, Rustoluem, Valspar, Dutchboy, Sears Primer, and Colorplace paints and they came off very quickly with no ill effects at all (even takes off bottle painted material no prob). This is a very good alternitive to Easy off oven cleaner, which I don't like using as a paint stripper because it's smells AWFULL!! and dosen't work as well as DOT-3 and PP.

I figured yesterday they were doing work on the site, because I couldn't get on at ALL! but no biggie, at least I didn't make any importaint posts during the site fix.

On Monday my Dad & I spotted a Tuesday Morning store, so we went in and they had a few AMT/ Stevens International kits left. They were: Li'l Yeller Li'l Mixer 27' Ford T Touring Police Car "Mount 'N Goat" 70's Jeep Commando Grabed'em all for $6.00 each!! (about $25 for all w/ tax) The first 3 were the only ones they had left, but IIRC they still had a few more Jeep Commandos too. On that same day we stopped at a Wal-Mart to pick up some flat black, and all the paints were sold out...sans 6 Flat Blacks and a Rustoluem Metalic copper they had marked down to $2.00. So that reallty made my monday. Sorry I didn't post this eariler because my sister had the lappy, and that I don't hav pics because she is using the camera for a bit.

Just yer average Jeep... WITH A BADAZ HEMI!!!! You can see the transfer case mated up to the motor perfectly: Let's see this thang REALLY plow through the land now! Allright, now for the rest of the spcifications: This is the Monogram kit dated from 1978, in which recent issues were released Revell (the release I got is the Revell "Complete" series issue, which was molded in yellow and had paints and glues). Mostly box stock cept for the HEMI motor which came from the '32 Ford 5 Window coupe. Went together well, but the installing the doors are a PAIN IN THE U-KNOW WHERE!! So I left them out and made it like the off road version (which some of the parts were ommited from this release) The Body was molded pretty good and with barely any swril marks on the yellow plastic, I decided to leave the molded color and apply future over it to call it a day (though everything else was painted obviously). Hope you enjoy!

Yeah, same thing happened to me one when I painted a Revell 07 Shelby GT500 with OCL (one coat lacquer) White Lightning over the plastic years ago. I find it's best to use primer first, then the color coats so it dosen't bleed through the lacquer color, and finaly shot it over with the OCL color of my choice.

As i've previously mentioned, the krylon paints are good as long as you use a different primer and base colorcoat undeneath...and avoid their primers and clears! I seemed to have really bad luck with the primer as it crazes all bare styrene it touches. Along with their clears (any tipe; even the crystal clears) as it melts through the paint & primer, and attacks the plastic so bad it's impossible to strip off!! Even their clear on the krylon color topping with the wal-mart paint and the sears primer coat underneath still did it! Also, I've heard most krylon paints WILL melt through Tamyia and Testors primer coats and eat up the plastic. So like everyone else said, use a good primer (sears, duplicolor, plastikote and etc), do good prep work and you'll be OK. One time when I desprately needed a flat black 'kauz the wallymart waz out of it'!!, so I had to resort to krylons flat black. I tired it on a test part, ans BOY let me tell you something! on bare plastic it WILL melt some parts of the plastic!! and gives you that effect of when you applied too much glue to the underside of a part and it makes a pit/dent in it! Talk about ultimate he-double-hockey-sticks!! But luckly it was on a spare hood that I had OVER 9000 spares of (sorry, just had to get that famous DBZ line out).

WOW! That trailer looks good!! That trick looks like a good alternitive to buying 10 packs of BMF to foil a large aera. Guess I should give the craft bond stuff a try next time I stop at Michaels, along with packing up a huge dollar pack of foil at the supermarket.

For detailing small to large parts, I find sometimes using toothpicks and Q-tips work as backup incase yer almost out of brushes. For example: using toothpicks for black window tirm, emblems and badges, interior tirm and etc. And using Q-tips for applying future, for use of emergaency brush painting matraial, ans more.