RickRollerLT1

For those who shop at K-mart (all stores) they put all their spray paint on clearence. For now it's 25% off, but expect more markdowns soon as it's a storewide thing... Good time to stock up while it lasts! Are they permenitly getting rid of the isle alltogether? or are they getting in Rustoluem and Plastikote products to replace it? If their gonna stop selling paint alltogether, it dosen't really bother me because Sears hardware has more of what I need (primers, slivers, and etc) anyway. Unless they change/redo their slection, then i'm in trouble.

I know the regluar sears stores don't havea paint section any more, but sears hardware and K-mart do and they both have the "quick & easy" line at their stores. I last picked up some primer at sears hardware a week ago with fresh stock, so they're definitly still produceing them. I dunno, maybe the stores in your aera don't carry them anymore because making money off hot, teen idol products is more importaint to them.

That's good to know, but sadly i don't have a dollar tree near me.

just curious, but what is SEM? sorry don't mean to bug anyone.

Sadly, I don't think we'll be seeing any tamiya paints for a while (I liked the candy green they had). My LHS still has some tamiya paints, but his supply is getting low and hasen't seen anything from them (including the primers) since March. IIRC, one HS I went to a while back had a few cans left for around 15-20 bucks!! (Yikes!) I'd suggest looking for an good alternitive primer if paying $20-30 a pop for tamiya primer isn't for you, or your wallet. (if it is and you gotta have it, then go ahead) I've heard many people had great results from Dupicolor, Plastikote, and (some) Rustoluem primers. But if you're on a tight paint budget and looking for very cheap good alternitives (though the latter ones arent so much, but in more units the $$$ adds up). I use Sears "Quick & Easy" Gray primer. It works very well over bare styrene, sprays on nicely and drys quick & smooth (almost no sanding needed); cheap ($1.70 for a 12oz can) and easy to get at yer nearest K-mart or Sears Hardware store. They also had white and red primers, which are no longer being produced anymore (sniff, sniff... I really liked them too). But Flat White (I use the colorplace brand, which works very well) works as a bright basecoat for gloss white, yellows, reds, blues and so on/ If you like it, you can stock up on 12 cans that will last you a long way for less than $16! which is the price of Tamiya primer if you can find it.

Good, but still a bit too pricey for me. I'll wait till an LHS has it for $25 or less, or hopeing (but i'm not gonna count my chicken on it) that Michaels or AC Moore will (not likely) carry it in the next 6 years!!

What's the MSRP on this one and the 300? Hopefully they won't be $50 because it's a totaly new subject like trumpitors Falcon.

Really awesome stuff!!! I find it works much faster and is safer than DOT-3. Had a '70 camaro kit that was missing the body, but then I realized I had one from a junk build many years ago. So I found the oldie camaro body that was painted with Colorplace Kelly Green n the bare body that crazed badly, then cleared with Krylon Krystal Krappy Klear and made things worse. So I let it sit in the purple bath for a day or so, and the body was gray plastic again with no damage to it whatsoever from the paint! I've soaked bodys in the Purple pond that were painted with Testors, Tamiya, Rustoluem, Valspar, Dutchboy, Sears Primer, and Colorplace paints and they came off very quickly with no ill effects at all (even takes off bottle painted material no prob). This is a very good alternitive to Easy off oven cleaner, which I don't like using as a paint stripper because it's smells AWFULL!! and dosen't work as well as DOT-3 and PP.

I figured yesterday they were doing work on the site, because I couldn't get on at ALL! but no biggie, at least I didn't make any importaint posts during the site fix.

On Monday my Dad & I spotted a Tuesday Morning store, so we went in and they had a few AMT/ Stevens International kits left. They were: Li'l Yeller Li'l Mixer 27' Ford T Touring Police Car "Mount 'N Goat" 70's Jeep Commando Grabed'em all for $6.00 each!! (about $25 for all w/ tax) The first 3 were the only ones they had left, but IIRC they still had a few more Jeep Commandos too. On that same day we stopped at a Wal-Mart to pick up some flat black, and all the paints were sold out...sans 6 Flat Blacks and a Rustoluem Metalic copper they had marked down to $2.00. So that reallty made my monday. Sorry I didn't post this eariler because my sister had the lappy, and that I don't hav pics because she is using the camera for a bit.

Just yer average Jeep... WITH A BADAZ HEMI!!!! You can see the transfer case mated up to the motor perfectly: Let's see this thang REALLY plow through the land now! Allright, now for the rest of the spcifications: This is the Monogram kit dated from 1978, in which recent issues were released Revell (the release I got is the Revell "Complete" series issue, which was molded in yellow and had paints and glues). Mostly box stock cept for the HEMI motor which came from the '32 Ford 5 Window coupe. Went together well, but the installing the doors are a PAIN IN THE U-KNOW WHERE!! So I left them out and made it like the off road version (which some of the parts were ommited from this release) The Body was molded pretty good and with barely any swril marks on the yellow plastic, I decided to leave the molded color and apply future over it to call it a day (though everything else was painted obviously). Hope you enjoy!

Yeah, same thing happened to me one when I painted a Revell 07 Shelby GT500 with OCL (one coat lacquer) White Lightning over the plastic years ago. I find it's best to use primer first, then the color coats so it dosen't bleed through the lacquer color, and finaly shot it over with the OCL color of my choice.

As i've previously mentioned, the krylon paints are good as long as you use a different primer and base colorcoat undeneath...and avoid their primers and clears! I seemed to have really bad luck with the primer as it crazes all bare styrene it touches. Along with their clears (any tipe; even the crystal clears) as it melts through the paint & primer, and attacks the plastic so bad it's impossible to strip off!! Even their clear on the krylon color topping with the wal-mart paint and the sears primer coat underneath still did it! Also, I've heard most krylon paints WILL melt through Tamyia and Testors primer coats and eat up the plastic. So like everyone else said, use a good primer (sears, duplicolor, plastikote and etc), do good prep work and you'll be OK. One time when I desprately needed a flat black 'kauz the wallymart waz out of it'!!, so I had to resort to krylons flat black. I tired it on a test part, ans BOY let me tell you something! on bare plastic it WILL melt some parts of the plastic!! and gives you that effect of when you applied too much glue to the underside of a part and it makes a pit/dent in it! Talk about ultimate he-double-hockey-sticks!! But luckly it was on a spare hood that I had OVER 9000 spares of (sorry, just had to get that famous DBZ line out).

WOW! That trailer looks good!! That trick looks like a good alternitive to buying 10 packs of BMF to foil a large aera. Guess I should give the craft bond stuff a try next time I stop at Michaels, along with packing up a huge dollar pack of foil at the supermarket.

For detailing small to large parts, I find sometimes using toothpicks and Q-tips work as backup incase yer almost out of brushes. For example: using toothpicks for black window tirm, emblems and badges, interior tirm and etc. And using Q-tips for applying future, for use of emergaency brush painting matraial, ans more.

I've heard this stuff will craze VERY BADLY on bare plastic, and possibly ruin it to the point where it's unstripable! If you have a K-mart or a Sears Hardware store next to you, i'd reccomend using their "Quick & easy" Gray primer as it WON'T harm the plastic in any way. Also, it covers very well and drys fast, is cheap ($1.69) and easy to get. If you want to use the Rustoluem primer over it for better coverage, you could apply the sears primer first, and then the rustoluem primer because it has a serface to bond to.

TNX guys fer your comments; just wish this one got more replies then being abandoned like all my other builds previuosly posted. Thanks for correcting me on the Mystic Cobra Whale392. If you notice i'm not very good with remembering some of the later model stangs and etc.

Krylon paints can be good if you use the right paint and primer underneath...but do not use their primers on bare styrene as they craze the plastic and is near impossible to strip off. I use sears gray primer, folowed by the color desired coat of wal-mart/colorplace paint, then the krylon color of my choice. Then I polish the painted body with white toothpaste, and I tackle it with 1 or 2 coats of pledge future floor wax with a foam brush. Doing this get very nice results with out having to deal with nasty clear coats, bad testors enamal sprays, or crazing for that matter. Though sometimes, I find that if you put a coat of sears primer as a sealer coat first, then applying krylon or any other brand primer ontop, you'll get even better coverage and a smoother serface for the next color coat to bite onto with out having any crazing issues whatsover. Here's some of my cars I painted using the krylon paints using these methiods, which were polished and futured. The '41 Ford Woody was painted in Banner Red & the '61 Impala in Leather brown w/ Boot Tan on the interior. The '64 Thunderbolt is painted in True Blue & the '68 Dart HEMI (which you've all previously seen) is in Sun Yellow

Regluar Krylon & their fusion paint on bare plastic WILL craze like no tommorow! Same goes for other paints like Rustoluem, Valsapr, the glossy colorplace colors (flats seem to work a-OK), and etc. ...But if you got a good primer underneath, they work wonders and save you money for colors you could get in bigger amounts (though there's also Automotive paints and many ppl have excellent results with them (i'm yet to try them) A good cheap primer I would reccomend would be Sears brand "quick & easy" gray primer (can be found at Sears stores, Sears hardware and K-mart); I've put almost every brand paint over it and NEVER had problems with crazing or compatabiltiy issues. At a $1.69 for a 12oz can that lasts a good amount fer what ya get, how could you lose? Weird thing is, the primer they have is good, but the rest of the colors they have in the line are awful. It's also like that with the wal-mart paints, their primer is no good, but the colors are awesome over the Sears primer. Warning: if out think you should use brand A's primer with brand A's color, DO NOT use Krylon's, Rustoluem's, and Valspar's primers on bare plastic! From my exprience with them, they CRAZE very BADLY and their "Plastic formulated" stuff is the same thing, only with "Plastic" labeled on the can. Though sometimes I find that if you apply the sears primer first then the other brand primer, not only you avoid crazing but you'll get good coverage and a smooth serface for the next coat to bite onto. Though i'm not saying the're all bad, But again I find that if you mix and match paints (such as the wal-mart paint over the sears primer trick) that works very well. I hope you guys find this info helpfull and useable.