Prostreet

I Tried to make mine as close to real thing as possible using different size rod where it should be to make it look accurate. When i first started mine i have to admit i wasn't really to worried about it being 100% accurate, But during the build i found my self taking it apart in certain parts to change it to make it more accurate. I still didn't do some things right but made notes to make that stuff right on the next one. I do want mine to resemble the 1:1 as close as possible as i can. I notice myself getting very anal about details now, but that is the way i would like to build.

TDR innovations was working on a new body style with a promod and prostock front clip in 1/16th, Most of the time there 1/16th stuff trickles down to 1/25th. When i asked before months ago it was put on the back burner. Wish they would get back after it, would love to build a new body style like that.

Still building?

Looking good Tyrone, I think i may try a 1/25th here soon. Every time i see you post one i wanna do it lol. I have a comp resins prostock dakota body sitting here.

Looking good Chris, double check your list before paint, I know i forgot 2 things. Didn't notice till after.

Tom, I did not pin anything on my chassis. I used Tenax7r and CA to build my chassis, It seems plenty strong. Pinning it wouldn't hurt anything though, would make it alot stronger but isn't necessary.

Looking real good Steve. Check out this thread, lots of good info. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41483

Nice work Scott, good to see you making some progress on this. Are the parts your molding going to be part of your product line in the future?

No problem , You Have a PM

That would be awesome Chris, no hurry whenever you have some time.

Thx. Guys. Chris, thinking of 2 different color combos right now. Main body color white with some red design or main color black with red design, right now biggest problem is trying to make the decals for the side trim and grill.

They go to the bottom, I know on Promods and i assume most pro classes the floor on the drivers side needs to be steel welded directly to the chassis. The center and passenger side can be carbon. Goto this link lots of great reference pictures. http://www.facebook.com/pages/R2B2-Race-Cars/171401982899540?sk=photos_stream

Thx. Guys, it's been a long road. Still a ways to go but getting there, This build has been very challenging for me. Thought before i take the body off i would throw a door and the front clip on it, still needs to get body work done.

Nice work Chris, pedal turned out awesome. Can't wait to see the chassis in paint.

Well had a little set back with the fuel system with regards to the fuel pump, So i'm working with someone now to try and get one made. I decided to get the front suspension on and steering done, The wheels are not attached yet since i still need to do the brakes, I have some lamb front brakes coming from Jim. I figured i would get some pictures with all the wheels on and the rear section of body. Last view is what all you NOS and Blower guys will see LOL.

Looks great BIll, The bar running from the firewall, You could lower the front of it so it has more of an angle that will place the top of the strut with the top of the wheel and might give you some more clearance.

really nice clean build.

Looking good Tyrone, Would look sweet with a cowl hood and some turbos.

Looks awesome Jeff, Are you cutting in door lines?

Nah not taken that way at all Scott.

Awesome Scott, I have some of Scott's parts, Top notch stuff. Scott, what's the eta on the stock fairmont body?

Whoa easy there fella, just playin lol. Can't wait to see the update.

Awesome work Ken, you have some amazing styrene skills.

Thx. Wayne, This build is really pushing my skills, but i'm loving every second of it.

I like the one on the left myself. Nice work.