scalenut

or you can save the photo file to your desktop, open word ,, drag the photo file onto the document.(or open the photo file as described in the previous post) than right click on the photo, click on "format", click on the "size" tab...and type in the actual size you want.

The alps decals use a heated wax-like ink, it is very easy to scratch or damage, LDF is a good idea while still on the sheet.

something I found that works great on phone cameras , small vid cams is these eye loups. if you have a harbor freight around..even better ! .. they work fantastic.. I just blue tac them on and change loups for different distance shots ... can get in super close with sharp focus and a tripod. and still leave a hand free http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-loupe-set-98722.html

ditto ,I over reacted , please carry on

today I was watching the shirly muldowney story

after showing my meager entry and somehow getting an honorable mention , than reading this thread I almost feel ashamed for placing at all. go ahead and dissect it,tear it apart if you like ,, it was my first model in ages ,, and got me back into the hobby..my family talked me into entering the contest.. and I won a t-shirt. They are really happy about it . I hope, I don't become so jaded as others on here appear to be... it's a hobby, an outlet for me ..I can't take it this seriously.

for the alps ,each color has to be a seperate layer , so even if you have the art, most cases the decal has to be completely redrawn anyway , but it sure helps big time to have this art and a size requirement. I can do these, but my computer is down, won't be back up until next week sometime. I'll check back than , to see if you still need them. also if you want that lettering in gold foil ,, you almost need an alps,, Alps does more than just white

I got honorable mention,, in the stock/paint category ... it's my first car model in 18 years so that may have been a factor. I'm starting on my 3rd model now ..lol... I'm a much better builder these days thanks to places like MCM

please someone direct me to the model car club directory,,, I'ts probably obvious, but I'm not seeing it ... thanks

I;ve had good results with a pencil eraser,,dab a real thin layer onto the eraser than dab onto the letters

neat trick ,,how do you get the residue off from the brake fluid ,,just soap and water ?

<Nigel Tuffnel> "how black is it ? the answer is none ,,,none more black"

I dip all the clear parts in it (make sure to cover it from dust). I also mix transparent colors with future and food coloring,,it flows like a dream. I also left a small open bottle of it evaporate to about 50%.( a filled pactra bottle took 2 weeks). it's a great glue for attaching chrome to the final painted model... this is a big big ,,main use for me now

I don't mind the pic limit whatever it may be ,, what drives me bonkers is when people repost(quote) the entire set in the following replys..thats just plain silly and a waste of bandwidth more than anything to the dial up people

it's crazy what new wives can do to a man .... epic score

I got an email friday, this is all they said about the announcement date "The winning entries will be posted on revell.com soon. Watch our site and future GearZ episodes for the announcement of the 2012 contest."

I just got confirmation thru email that I placed in the box stock category for paint choice today ,, so the voting has commenced they mentioned in the email that they got so many entrys that they have added prizes for honorable mention . "The winning entries will be posted on revell.com soon. Watch our site and future GearZ episodes for the announcement of the 2012 contest."

I apologize for not thinking ,,, I will do a proper "ad" in the proper section. got carried away a bit ...sorry.

If it's a new bit it helps to dull the sharp edge a tiny bit,, it's great to have a nice sharp bit for metal ,, but not plastic,, it will bite too hard these bits are ground sharp and at an angle ideal for metal.. but yeah choking up on it would help a whole lot

I use createx for everything ... but I wouldn't recommended them to start out on ,, they are their own beast.

Forgot to add ,, I too am looking forward to the- how this draw decals post,, just covering the software would probably be many pages long.

I'm not related to the "andy" in the first post ( I can't even see the first post..lol).. But my tiny little side "hobby/kinda business" is Andy's Alps Decals .I'm a prize sponser in the SMA big spring contest going on. yes I have some guitar decals floating out there on the internet along with a bunch of model rocketry stuff I have 2 machines and I also have a vinyl cutter as the good Dr. Cranky brought up .. vinyl cutters and the alps printer require vector drawings ,,, even if you just want to draw your own decals and have them printed and/or cut it would be very beneficial to learn a vector program rather than spend that valuable time learning photoshop or any of the other raster based programs. since I'm here I will offer to do some decals ... the reason I don't advertise or have a website is, I started mainly to do them for myself and a few friends. It seems like every category is covered by the other decal companys already available ,, and I don't desire to compete with them. sadly that would probably be the only way to make a few bucks back from all the investment I've made. so If someone has something they need that may not be available elsewhere I will be happy to attempt it ... I'm pretty good with drawing up decals. the cost ,, well that depends on how complicated or time consuming the job might be.. I have a regular job like everyone else here...heheh. I just charge what any other company would charge ... If you have something drawn up (in any format) it really helps me get them done and out quickly. In most cases no matter how good the artwork ,,If it's not vector I have to re draw it .( and often have to redraw those too.! ) I'm not in it to make money ( not many alps decal makers are making profit worth bragging about), but I actually like drawing decals and keeping my illustrator chops up. As far as the Alps printers ...they are not available anymore,, not new ones atleast ... and finding a good used one is like a needle in a haystack... also it's like playing the odds if it even works properly,, and doesn't have a pixel or 2 out,, that leave hairline streaks in every decal. as fas as the cartridges ,, they are still being produced for at least the next 4 years... but the cost goes up every other month it seems ,,, even tho there are plenty out there... If anyone needs cartridges for their alps,, shoot me a message and I can direct you to the main suppliers and best prices. I was able to build up a fair supply thru the last few years , buying a batch of colors once a month for a good while (to help ease the pain)..lol sooo if someone needs some decals ,, shoot me a message ,, I'm not working heavy hours at the current time ... any questions about decals ,, printers ,software... ect .... go ahead and post it.I've been around the 'ole decal block a few times by now.

thanks for the heads up

Yay ! .. another cryptic title I had to open to read

I have had good luck with plain bleach so far ,, I recently received a large parts lot of wheels and tires. most of the wheels were pretty scratchy grimed and dirty.They were from several types and years of kits. After I disassembled all the wheels I was able to fill a large mason jar full, I poured in plain bleach.And capped it most of the wheels almost instantly stripped , some were a little more stubborn, I just let them sit while I had dinner everything was completely clean by the time I finshed I drained the bleach back into the bottle and rinsed out the wheels. with a little caution it's a very safe( I do it in the kitchen sink) and not very smelly ( I cap the jar) means of doing it. I would imagine oven cleaners and stronger messy things would work quicker on some of the more stubborn chromes .. I do notice that on some chrome parts the underlying gloss coat does remain when using bleach ,, but having a nice glossy surface can be a benefit if respraying with something like a gloss black followed by alclad. less polishing I always amazed by how many things I never thought of will strip chrome ,, from what I understand it's not actually chrome,it's vaporised aluminum, much the same as the reflective surface of CD's