scalenut

why do people quote the entire post w/ photos directly above them? ...aside from eating up bandwidth .. never understood that that spoon rack is awesome

whats the name of this product?

if thats the spelling in the U.K. than I apologetically stand corrected..Ignore the yank and please carry on

ahh billet,, that makes more sense ... yeah I had the same problem ,, I turned it off on my phone and life is way much easier.. that phone had a mind of it's own

after reading all the replies you still can't spell............ W E L D ? really ?..what's up with that?

anyone who posts cryptic titles like "it's sad".."anyone interested" question" and so forth that forces me to open the thread to see what it's about, needs to go... IMHO. that's a major pet-peeve on any forum for me.. I'm sure I'm not alone if you can't indicate in the title what the topic is about ,, than your obviously dying for people to open it and need attention in general.

lol...you got me with "roolcake" ...had to read the post just to see what the heck that was..heheh.. I use the extra thin glues whenever I can get away with it.. like pro-weld and tamiya e/t

been doing it since I starting airbrushing about 8 yrs ago ,,, I got it from a magazine or someone else ,, so yeah it's not like a new tip but worth bringing up for those who might find it useful ... it's very useful no doubt !.. almost all my painting experiments involve spraying spoons.

I searched google and it pulled up a grill with bullet-like segments added to the front of it.. maybe just glue bullets to the front like they are coming out of the grill ?

same here ,, except I don't bother with the soap ... soap residue will wreak havoc if you plan to spray any further paint/clear. that said I may try it anyway

amazing workmanship !...will this be going to the Smithsonian ?

true .and with thebondo spot putty.... if it sinks , cracks ..ect... your putting too much on at one time ,, it's designed to fill pinholes and hairline cracks.after priming and sanding. for larger jobs it takes more layers to work properly.(or a more suitable product) If all else fails don't knock a product before you read the instructions.(Not directed at jbwelda,, just continuation of his advice)

here's a tip....that bondo glazing and spot putty is designed to go on top of primer it's designed to work with and bond to primer ,, not raw plastic. It might work ok but thats not how it's meant to work. I use the non hardener type exclusively, as intended<< and have never had any issues with it in 8 yrs.

I have some from an amt mopar kit ,, can't remember what kit tho

I use scalpels and get a box of 100 scalpel blades off ebay for $16 shipped,

sorry the only "clone" about the HF is the housing,, the internals are rough as heck and it has a completely different needle assembly and the needle is a different angle... not even in the same ball park beyond appearance..sure it works but you get what you pay for.

Out of 5 A/B's my workhorse is the badger 155..for fine work a T&C omni.. for clears my $25 paasche H,, never fails. I have literally sprayed gallons thru all of them. Iwatas are classy and shiney , but not the only option for higher end work the upper end aztecs and testors are great as well the hardest to clean that I own is the paasche vl,,also a great A/B. after a few cleanings it easy to get used to breaking down. also it can be set to single action simply by turning the upper thumbwheel. I would say that paint mix and flow are far more important than the airbrush brand.

thats a diamond file ,,, not the same..it doesn't have grooves that clog like a typical file... I use a small brass brush. I'm a machinist and well... thats what we use.

I use "matrix" brand from the local shop.

plain old bleach in a mason jar ,, revell chrome ...30 seconds amt chrome can take up to an hour,, everything else goes pretty quick. I figure everyone has bleach..and it's cheap ! it won't remove the clear undercoat but thats easily sanded if necessary

an old unimog,, any version

Iwata is nice , microns are nice ,,,I have 5 AB's. but I still keep going back to my workhorse badger 155 or T&C omni 5000. but I wouldn't turn another down !.. I smell a giveaway ? your very sly Dr.C...hehehhe

I have to agree ..I've been using computer fans for 7 years .ofcourse I don't go spraying lacquer thinner into the motor.I use mainly acrylics But In my 30 years building I have never read an actual case of an airbrush booth of that type flashing/exploding. Can someone please post a case of of an airbrush booth catching fire ? I would be interested in reading what kind of "booth" they were using. I also think it's important to filter. ...some people mention venting directly to the atmosphere ... that's not too cool