Modelmartin

I built the same kit when it first came out in the early 80s and found it to be an enjoyable build. You did a nice clean job. I found that the wheels improved a lot when I used a gray wash in the slot/spoke section of the wheels. The only chrome on the real wheels is on the hub center. I actually used a matt foil on the disc portion and bright silver paint on the rim section. I will try to post a photo of the Coupe Napoleon version of the kit this week-end. Keep on building those Classics!

Nice job on a cool classic car. The color is a good choice. There is a beautiful Packard Phaeton in the Nethercutt Collection that is painted almost the exact color. The AMT and Airfix releases of this kit are the same MPC Gangbusters tooling from the 60s. They are great kits but are easier to build if you can find an older release of it before the molds developed a lot of flash and the ejection pins got misaligned and mixed up.

And the cool thing about that kit was all the metal parts on the real car were plastic in the kit. The only thing close to being the right material was the tires!

That is not a model! It is a small car!

Is this reserved for model cars on the american "hobby" scene or can anyone play? There are a lot of awesome scratchbuilders in Europe that we only get glimpses of. This exercise is interesting but by nature will be incomplete. Best models I have ever seen and I have been around a little bit. 1. Tom Kirn's 1/15 Duesenberg J Hands down!! Beats Sans! Beats Wingrove! 2. Manuel Olive Sans 1/10 Maserati Birdcage OH. MY. GOD. The rest of these models are still awesome but little compares to the above two. 3. Jim Drews Corvette GS 4. Clay Kemp's ....hmmmm... they are all awesome. I particularly like the Greg Anderson Grand Am. 5. All of the models on Mike Siegman's list! 6. Thibodeau's Pirates of Caribbean NASCAR 7. Charles Rowley's Fire rigs. 8. Bill Geary's Corvette and 58 Impala The above list is very incomplete! These are just the one's that come off of the top of head. There are some 1/43rd builders who blow away almost all of us 1/25th types. One of the frustrating things is that there are closet builders everywhere who are really, really good but very few people see their stuff! What are you going to do!

###### nice model! I think.

Ariel is correct in that scaling decals up has it's hazards. Smaller scale decals will have inaccuracies as everything does and when you enlarge them those inaccuracies will be magnified. Scaling down is usually trouble free as far as accuracy goes!

That's interesting! I would like to see that. The upside down one I saw was pretty clear. I think even in the early 60s Ferrari wasn't as standardized as one would think. I know the 50s stuff is all over the planet and no 2 were the same. I pulled my hair out when I was doing the Barchettas for CMA. 3 Different 166MM Barchettas and there were 3 different shock absorber set-ups, frames, intakes, dashboards, hoods, etc. Before all those cars became over restored thay looked like they were welded up in a high school welding class! A pretty cool welding class but there were globjobs under the skin.

This should be a pretty easy formula to use. Take the scale of the original piece - in your case 1/43rd. Multiply your dimension from the model or decal sheet by 43. If the decal is .100 long it will then be 43 X .100 = 4.3 That would be the size in 1/1. Now divide that dimension by the scale you want to convert it to. In your case 1/24. That would be 4.3 divided by 24 = .179 ( rounded) Plug in whatever scales you want and you are ready to go.

Please pardon me for a slight hijack of this thread but seeing the bottom of Bill's Ferrari reminded me of a discovery I made several years ago when I was doing pattern work for CMA on their 250GT SWB Stirling Moss car. Ever wonder what sense it made for the exhaust to merge into one pipe and then out into two again next to the rear wheels? The real one doesn't! Those are 2 separate pipes and one runs under the other. All of the kit manufacturers got that one wrong. I discovered it in a Ferrari book showing a wrecked 250 laying upside down in the road after a rally accident. Five minutes and an inch of solder and that one is fixed! Back to regularly scheduled programming.

Wow! And some people thought I was a dick for getting into it with Reliable resin!!!! Need some backup, Darin?

Those old Palmers are kind of cool in a non-model car kind of way. They are more like artifacts from our past. Sell it to a 64 Impala owner!

They are definitely worth something, especially the earlier issues. I don't think there is a lot of value in them perhaps $5 -$10 each depending on the content. condition and age. They had a lot of great reference material and some even had those really cool Aardvark Models advertisements. Imagine - you could have gotten a Birdcage Maserati kit for $65.00! I have a larg-ish magazine collection and values can be funny. Those early Hot Rods from 1948 are very slim and do not have a lot of content but issue #1 can go for up to $1000.00 Of course anything from 75 and newer is worth a nominal sum perhaps $3.00 or less. I generally do not pay anything for Motor Trend but may give a few bucks for early 50s copies. Prancing Horse mags go for really good money. Early drag racing stuff goes for serious money. Those Hot Rod Magazine Funny Car pictorials go for $75.00 or more. The main thing though is to enjoy them. I would probably get rid of most of my model cars before I would get rid of the magazines. I really dig them.

That is so model car! IMSA on an Enzo? It looks like a Tamiya.

Very cool stuff! I love the pics of all those funny cars with all of those bodies racked up behind! Thanks for sharing. Very cool looking car show , too!

Another great source for Legos is Ebay. I got buckets of them really cheap. I go for the duplos -the bigger ones. I have heard people recommend garge sales as a good Lego source too.

One more observation and I will go sit in the corner. I just went through this thread again to see where it went wrong. My first 2 posts were just informational. I thought I was just helping out with my thoughts, experiences and opinions. My third one was where I got a little exasperated because I felt that people were not understanding what I wrote. I realize that I may have sounded a little testy there. After that the wheels just came off. Those who actually know me know what the score is and that is good enough for me. Sorry, Gregg!

No you're not! You are just a competent model car builder who wants the parts on his model to look like the parts on the real car! Nothing at all wrong with that!

I like what you did. The weathering is nice. You didn't go overboard and it looks so much better this way. Cool!

That is a very fun model!

That is a very cool rig! I like it a lot.

It depends on how badly glued together it is. Some gluebombs are beyond repair. The freezing trick helps some. I have on occasion found paint stripper (whichever kind you like to use) does a good job. I use Easy-Off oven cleaner. Usually you need to use multiple methods and a lot of patience. A brand new Exacto blade is helpful. I don't think there is any magic answer. I have gambled on gluebombs on Ebay and a few times I just pitched them because there was just so much glue put on them that things melted together. Even if I cold get them apart they wouldn't be any good! Some have fallen apart and been rebuilt very nicely. The short answer to your question is - carefully! Good luck to you.

As always, your models have a really great look to them. You the man!

I apologize to everyone else on this forum for the preceding unpleasantness. It is completely undignified and truly annoying and has no place in polite society. Please forgive me. Aaron - I was actually trying to offer useful advice. I am sorry the thread went bad. I know that is not what you wanted when you posted your question.