64SS350

To clarify further, this uses a dust collection blower/vac system, where (saw) dust passes through the unit,which is also flammable. This is essentially a squirrel cage on steroids. The smaller unit at harbor freight was $120, but a little smaller than this and no lights, stand or filtered exhaust port. But, the gloves and glove ports were ordered from there and were very reasonable.

Everything should total about 130, the plywood and lights were the worst, alot I found deals on, had, or fabricated. Don't currently have a room available to paint in. so had to this.

Why is my setup different from anyone else's that uses a blower motor or even a fan? Besides, the motor and turbine area is seperate and grounded via the pipe to the unit. It's not a 'shop vac', my shop's vac SYSTEM.

As to the construction, no prob. My painting though is improving, with the help of Mr Yost's DVDs, and patience!

I have been working on my version of the paintbooth. It will have sandblast gloves cut to wrist length so I can then use nitril gloves. It has two 23" lights, will have a filter in rear, use my shops vac system (with reduced are flow) to evacuate the fumes and overspray, and a port to insert the airbrush hose.

Could'nt find anything specific on the forum, what's the best steps to using automotive paints? Primer, thinner 'temp.', etc. Would Metalizer be a good primer? Thanks,Karl

Somebody nearby twisted my arm, sounds like fun, looking foward to it.

Between Friday and today, supplies from a new found hobby shop and these;

Sure do! That's what got me back into modeling, using the bodies for drag racing. My local track has all scales, H.O., 1/32 magnetic, 1/24. Has 5 different tracks to choose from with many different classes to participate in. Many stamped steel chassis, FCR brass chassis, and Retro classes where you build the cars from brass and piano wire, all classes are a lot of fun. It's great building the models, then I get to see it in action, not just sitting on a shelf.

Where do you guys order these from?

What paints can be buffed out and best procedure for each. I used some Model Masters Acryl via my airbrush, started to wet sand with 2000, and quickly discovered inadequate paint depth. Plan to clear when finished, help and suggestions. Viewed the great posting on the 49 Merc, not sure I caught what paint was used.

Thanks for the tips, I used to use reguler glazing and spot putty, but I picked up some of the catylized to try.

What type of putty seems to work well. Using 'Feather Fill', but doesn't always stick to the styrene. Suggestions please!

Well I'm new here, and was turned on to your site by a fellow racer and builder. I think this looks to be a great source of info I can use. I wanted to add a word of caution about low tires.. I agree it looks better to do this, but I had one that once it hit the glue trap, the tires would lift the car causing a deslot. And we all know how ugly that can get. Car looks great, love the big body styles.