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I am pretty sure that in real life you can totally put the dual exhaust on your Camaro, even if it was powered by a four banger Hyundai. And honestly, that would be my choice, as an iconic Muscle car like this Camaro looks kinda wimpy with a single exhaust.

Thank you Alan. I have learned a lot of stuff on here. Info on different modeling subjects, new techniques, different tools and materials and countless ideas and inspirations. This is a place that is a never-ending well of information and inspiration and this is why I keep on coming back even after long periods away from the hobby. I am glad that I can also contribute towards what this forum is.

Thank you Tom. I am definitely down with getting together sometimes. We like going to Bowling Green with my family, so maybe we can meet somewhere around there as it would be probably in the middle.

Look what the FEDEX man just dropped off... Now we're in business and I am excited!!!

Pretty cool so far. I always loved the drilled visors on model As.

Yesterday I did not get much bench time, but enough to mess with the brakes and to try to play with some older carbon decals I have left. One of my favotire tools/materials I like to use is Liquid Mask. It is basically pure Latex. You brush it on. The thicker you apply it, the easier it is to remove later on. Once dry it shrinks around your part and becomes clear or purple or pink, depending on the brand you use. but it creates perfect seal, that nothing will bleed under. I sprayed the rotors with few alternating coats of black and gunmetal, straight out of the spray cans at a considerable distance. The idea was for the cans to kinda "spit" and make the finish dotted with both colors, to replicate the carbon discs the Huayra is using. I did not remember it, but apparently back when I ordered this kit, I did get the photo etch set that Aoshima makes for it too. It does have in it rotor surfaces, but I did not use them as they have to be painted anyway. Instead chose to use just the rotors "hats" in the centers, which I painted black and then picked the detail out. The rotors were sprayed once more with clear flat, the center details were added and then covered with clear gloss and the calipers were unmasked and received the Pagani decals and were then also covered with a thin coat of clear. I am happy with them now. Next I turned my attention to some interior pieces. The door inserts received the polished aluminum speaker surrounds, courtesy of some bare metal foil. Then the speakers themselves received some 1/24 twill weave carbon cones. I have not done carbon in ages and it definitely will take some time to get back to my previous capabilities with it. The edges of the cones are not perfect, which is not an issue as they need their borders painted with a thin line of flat black and their centers are going to be silver/chrome. So, at the end of day yesterday, I had my brakes done, together with the speaker inserts on my door panels and subwoofer. And this is what I am starting with today.

Lol. Yeah, I may need mental help after that too. About the hydro dip, it’s not an option. Even if they made scale options for about the four kinds of carbon I need, there is no way to control its direction with precision. So I’ll stick to decals and try to keep my sanity. It’s not impossible. It will just take a little longer than usual.

This will be interesting

Thank you Scott. It is a complex build. And to do it justice, there is a lot of carbon work involved. Chassis and engine are no joke either. Its gonna be fun with different sizes and types of carbon fiber weave, all strategically placed in particular directions. My back and eyes are already hurting just thinking about it. LOL

This on the picture is the interior of the Huayra Lapo. It is even more hideous on the outside. It was made for Lapo Elkan - the heir to the Fiat empire and CEO of Ferrari. A controversial persona with middle-eastern blood and questionable taste. Back in the day he was driving a matt baby blue Ferrari 599 GTB with interior stitched from jeans. One of the seats had a back pocket randomly placed on it. His Huayra was for sale almost ten years after it was made with only 6 miles on the odometer. A lot of these cars were purchased and owned as automotive sculptures trailered to shows and events and never driven.

Thank you Phil.

Thank you Claude. I've done this same grille surround treatment before and it was posted on here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/146429-delivery-deuce/page/2/ Which reminds me that I have never taken photos of the finished model Maybe I'll do that tomorrow. If it doesn't rain.

Thank you Dan. Jimmy Flintstone makes the body, but it comes with the top molded on and it is a rough casting on the inside. What you see here took a lot of work to look decent on the inside. The cool part is that the body is available pretty much from anyone selling JF bodies and on his site and it is cheap - only $10.

The more I study the instructions on this kit, trust me, it's a good idea to study THESE instructions, The more confident I am that starting with the cockpit/interior is the right way to go. So, today I first sprayed my SEM color on and let the sun speed up the drying process, which with SEM paints is super fast anyway.But considering the amount of masking, some extra UV assisted cure time could be of help. Then all the blue areas I was going to need to stay blue were masked off. A rather tedious job. Tamiya is my go-to masking tape of choice, but for really finicky jobs where I need sharpest line possible, I use bare metal foil. After everything was masked, parts were divided into two groups. One received a coat of white primer and then a coat of Tamiya TS-7 Racing white, which to me is the most beige color without calling it beige. The other group received a coat of Tamiya TS-40 Metallic Black without any primer, as the SEM already took that role. And that's when I realized that I just had my second senior moment in just four days. I dug out all the SEM color cans I had and put aside the two blues I liked. And then sprayed all the parts with the wrong one, called Shadow Blue. I did not catch it during masking and during spraying the following colors. But I knew it was wrong teh minute I mocked up my parts, as it was way too dark. I love the color, but it's just not.....well....Just not Pagani enough for this build. So, the entire masking process was repeated, followed by the correct blue color and then everything was unmasked again. Much better combo! Now I'm starting to have a true Pagani interior with all its excess. Except it's just getting started, because everything that is not blue or white is going to be covered in three different sizes of carbon fiber. There is still one more color element to be added, but I have to wait for my Scalemotorsport order to come in with all the carbon sheets I ordered. And while I was playing with white primer, I decided to shoot the brake calipers. And after cleaning my airbrush like a million times, I thought "what's one more time" and sprayed some Tamiya Mica Blue on them. Me likes... Stay tuned and thanks for looking....

Thank you Andrew. I have some cool ideas about the interior.

Pretty cool watching this coming together. I love builds like this.

Thank you. I am winging this one as I go. Like Jason above said, you can go for broke on this particular car, as literally anything goes. Here's a prime example

My thoughts precisely. Most of these cars have interiors worthy of an Albanian brothel. Which is exactly why I like Pagani's earlier cars way better. I am keeping my Ace in the sleeve with the interior until I make it. I do have some Bianco Fuji paint left from some previous projects, which is a Ferrari tri-coat, which as beautiful as it is, I hate working with. I also have have some original Ferrari Argento Nurburgring, which is about the brightest silver there is. I am leaning towards the Bianco Fuji, as it will go bad if I don't use it. I've had it for almost ten years and almost finished it on my mailbox, when I got bored a couple of years ago.

Your comment was made while I was typing my last post. Great minds think alike, because that is exactly the color combo we are pretty much set on with my kids. Well, with a little twist on the interior. Actually we are set on the blue interior, but were not 100% on the type of white or bright silver for the exterior. Also I am going for gold wheels to match the engine and suspension bits, while my older son is campaigning very strongly against it, saying that it needs black wheels. His brother is with him, but thinks that the black wheels would need a thin blue stripe. I have quite a bit of carbon fiber decals it seems, but I still ordered some more today. I may start on some pieces tomorrow. Perhaps we can have a build off! LOL

I started to cut random parts off the trees and to prep some of them with the intent of visualizing how things would look together and getting closer to choice of color combos. The seats have their backs separate, which I glued and puttied the seams. It is nice to see that part of the seats that is in contrasting color on a lot of these cars is a separate piece. Saves on masking. I wish the seat backs had the same feature, but they would have to be masked if a two color combo is chosen. I am very pleasantly surprised at the variety of options the kit offers. For example the doors are mostly carbon fiber on the real car with a leather insert, housing the impressive speakers. not only these inserts are molded separate, which is a huge help in painting, but there are two different sets with different design speakers. There are also two optional luggage pieces provided, which fit on the shelves behind the seats like on the real car. There are no attachment tabs or holes, so it is totally up to the builder whether to use them. The only issue is that they are hollow with no backs. I fixed that with some sheet styrene and Tamiya grey putty. If you noticed the two wholes in the middle of that shelf behind the seats, they are for another optional piece. You can have a somewhat discreet storage compartment in the middle (which looks better without any bags on its side) for a cleaner look. Or you can put a subwoofer enclosure in the middle, which in my opinion "needs" the luggage on each side to balance its protrusion. As it is often the case in situations like this, I put the decision to a vote with my kids. Both my sons opted for the whole shebang - subwoofer, bags and all..... https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/XezHgw.jpg We all agreed on the choice of door inserts. All this helped me get a lot closer to final colors for this exotic machine. The interior is going to have quite few blue pieces in it for sure. That's it for today. Stay tuned and thanks for looking...

I totally hear you about ending up in a box. Been there, done that...

I love that yellow. I hope you can fix the rear bumper without much trouble.

At first, this kit seems rather intimidating. There is like a million pieces and not many are for the bodywork. lots and lots of really fine thin and fragile parts. It should be fun! I decided to start by tackling the body first. It comes in a crisp white plastic and as I usually do, I'll be gluing some pieces in advance before any paint, even if the instructions call for a different sequence. The rear engine cover has vents for the air intake that are faithfully represented by moulding them in pieces. Gluing them is not an issue, but filling them and sanding in those crevices can be testing. Underneath is only slightly better. Because of all the nightmarish fitment issues I've read about, I removed as much material as I could. If hoods are fixed open, all that inner surface will be covered in carbon fiber. The rear facia is comprised of five pieces. Depending on how you plan on building your model color wise, you may want to paint these pieces before assembly. In my case this entire piece will be covered in carbon fiber, so no reason not to glue everything together in advance. Also this way it's easier to foresee any fitment issues at earlier stage. The side body work and side intakes are moulded in three separate pieces. In my case these pieces are also going to be completely covered in carbon fiber, as alf of them are the body work, which I am doing in exposed carbon weave and the upper half are part of the monocoque, which is notoriously exposed carbon on all Huayra cars. At least as far as I know. After considerable amount of sanding, pretty much all body panels are ready for primer, which seems to be the easiest part of this kit. Stay tuned and thanks for looking.....

Now that’s something you don’t see very often! I think you did a great job on essentially dreaming up and materializing a whole new car of your own. it’s a great model and beautifully executed to boot.

Holly thread resurrection, Batman!