-
Posts
409 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by Old Sprinter
-
I don't think I ever saw that 4 bar car. The plans I got, from Don, are a front buggy spring, rear torsion bar car. Older sprinters and lots of the old supers ran that set up, as you know, before going to a 4 bar set up. This plan shows an 86" wheelbase so it was for short tracks not like the Sac. mile. The race you saw Opperman in; was that early 70s when Jimmy Gordon and two other died there that day. I saw several USAC "big car" races there as a kid. The one car you're talking about; does it use double radius rods on both sides? That would have put it in a bind.
-
Thanks John; on this sprinter the only aluminum I used was the firewall and belly pan; everything else is styrene sheet and tube. I only build these cars in 1/8th scale and I scratch build everything except I buy the spark plug boots and all the bolts. I draw plans for every car I build and I sell a generic set of 1/8 scale sprint car plans if you're interested. It's 11 pages on 12x18 sheets and shows how to build everything even the tires and wheels. E-mail me at kmeaders@q.com if you are ever interested.
-
Hi Del; I am currently building that Edmunds supermodified from Don's plans, that I bought from him. They are drawn in 1/8 scale which is all I build in so it's perfect for me. Here's a couple of pictures with my car and a Monogram model in 1/24th scale that you can still buy.It would be cheaper than buying those plans, although they are cool and come with a cut-away drawing.
-
Thanks Ray. I'm building three model cars from scratch presently. The vintage midget ( posted here as " Building an 1/8 scale model from a 1/4 scale model), this USAC sprint car and an Edmunds supermodified for the Open Wheel Museum in Phoenix. I would have never tried this a year ago but it's working. I spend one week working one car then the next on another car and so on. I don't get burnt out on one model so it keeps my interest up. Here's the Edmunds car as it sits today and the motor for the sprinter, which is a Ford Roush/ Yates. I bought original plans for the supermodified from Don Edmunds so that project is a blast. The plans are drawn in 1/8 scale which makes it much easier to build. I am trading some work to have Hoot's Rod and Custom paint all three cars which really helps me as I have not mastered painting at all, especially scallops.
-
I'm lucky enough to have been asked to build the sprint car driven by RJ Johnson, this year, to a Southwest USAC championship. As always it's 1/8 scale, scratch built. I met the owners at the last race, last weekend in Peoria AZ. I started drawing plans the Sunday after that last race. Built the frame and body in 1 weeks time. This is a Sherman chassis with a Roush/ Yates Ford 360 motor.
-
This could be a 3D printed model. Here's a picture of an 1/8 scale midget frame done with a 3D printer, sitting next to the body they also sell. This frame is from the 60s and it's an Edmunds style. My model is of an older car so I'll be making all the parts from scratch. I won't mind building one of those printed cars sometime.
-
About two years ago I built an 1/8 scale Edmunds midget from original plans. I made two fiberglss bodies and sent one to the Madd Fabricator. He made a mold from that body and sent me the first fiberglass cast from that mold. That body fits the 1/8 midget frame that TDR offers. They also offer wheels, tires, the 110 Offy motor and and this body from the Madd Fabricator. It is a 60s Edmunds midget and this is a Kurtis Kraft car from the early 50, late 40s with a Ford V8/60 motor. So I had to modify the body by taking a scale 4" off the length and making the cockpit area more open. Then build a period correct frame to fit it.
-
I used RC tires and wheels for the first two models I built 3 years ago and they are sort of close to the right size but it looks like an RC car when it's done. A sprint car and most all circle track cars, like I build have three or four different size tires so I had to figure a way to make them without buying a lathe. I go to Hoosier or Goodyear's web site and get the dia.,section and tread width for the tires I want to use. This works although it's time consuming; takes 6 days to make four tires and wheels. I build a frame and body in a week usually. Like anything, practice makes you better at it.
-
I use .040 styrene to make circles and glue spacers between them. I then cut out progressively smaller dia. pieces with a progressively larger opening at the rim. I use .060 styrene for that. Wrap the tire with .040 and then I draw out the tire patteren on poster board. I glue on one layer of the poster board then the one with the pattern on it. I Bondo the sidewalls to make the steps rounded off and cut and file out the tread through the two layers of poster board. Paint her flat black and it race ready
-
You're doing fanastic on this. It certainly can be compared building a real car, just smaller and the material is different. The front end geometry, king pin angle, anti Ackerman steer, camber, caster, steering arm length, etc.; all that must be thought out as you are doing. It is really rewarding, isn't it? Can't wait to see more.
-
Dave; I haven't looked at any of your cars in awhile; doing my own roundy round race car models, you know. So I didn't think it was possible but you have got better, seriously. Your at the top of your game with this latest car, man. Ken