Rdkingjay

Brandon, They are reffered to as Crimp Tubes. You can find them in any arts and crafts store, like Michaels, Joann Fabircs, A.C. Moore or the like. They are commonly used in the making of beaded jewelery bracelets, earrings etc. They come in a variety of sizes and are dispayed with all the other supplies for making beaded jewelery. When you find them, take your time and look around, you'll find a lot of other goodies there that can be used for detailing a model car. In fact all the hard lines on this car, also came from the same aisle.

John, I just went through all your posts for this build and you are doing just an amazing job. Your work and attention to detail is impeccable! I have a 1/16th General Lee project that I thought I was doing a lot of detail on, unitl I saw your car. I saw the real thing ( i think) on an episode of "Chasing Classic Cars, which is filmed about an hour away from me. I'll certainly follow your posts. Great build.

Just some quick shots of some detail items that will be hard to photograph when the engine compartment is buttoned up. The engine bay/wheel wells are not glued in yet, because I am waiting for a spun aluminum coil and MSD ignition box from Pro-tech, that still need to be mounted and wired. The photos depict the passenger and driver side rubber brake lines going to the front wheels. The third and fourth photos are the wiper washer tank and over-flow coolant tank. Only one end of each hose is attached at this point. The last photo shows the steering shaft and if you look closely, you can see the hard brake line, then fitting, then the rubber brake line going to the drivers wheel. Thanks for looking.

Josh, I went looking for those fenders today and they are not in either box. Sorry, I apologize for getting your hopes up, I thought I still had them.

Actually no. Your timing is perfect though, I just sent them off to a friend of mine who makes scaled police decals. He will be using the original decals to make new ones that won't allow the bright orange paint work to bleed through, as I recall them doing when I built the original 30 years ago. He is also doing emblems for the car as well.

While I am awaiting some mail-order detail stuff from Pro-tech, I made/modified some of my own. Pictured are the following, four scratchbuilt window cranks. A steering shaft with U-joints, that started out as a 1/25th drive shaft. Slightly modified wipers from my 1/18th scrap heap. Modified washer fluid and coolant over flow bottles, also from the 1/18th scrap heap and finally , the modified steering wheel with its new spokes. These are by no means done, they still need some final sanding paint etc. prior to installation. Moving right along...Thanks for looking

Ok. I'll check for them and let you know.

I think I have a couple extra 55 P/U kits if you need parts. I built several and got tired of building them. Let me know if you need something.

Great idea with the rear wheels!!

Wow, talk about a blank canvas! So many directions you could take this thing. Lokking forward to watching this one come together.

Here's my submission. I built the shelf unit from a bunch of old shelves that were in this basement when I bought the house. Behind is my Kevin Harvick diecast collection with a sprinkling of customs, both purchased and built. The current projects are of course, the big General Lee and whatever Christmas decorations that my wife brings down for repair. The 1/25th Charger in the background is primarily for ref with the General, but next to it is an S-10 Blazer that will replicate the one currently driven by my son. Thought I'd also share my Mass State cruiser case. I built all of them, except for the 1/43rds and a few of the 1/24ths are conversions.

I hope you display the finished product on a mirror. Beautiful job on the chassis!

Short of some final sanding, primer and paint, this is the finished scratchbuilt engine bay. The last time you saw it, was in my initial post. It has gone through several tweaks since then. I based it from pics on line of the real thing and other 1/16th General builders that have built the same car. Obviously it is not exact and I wanted to keep the dual shock set up. So I gave it that "cut out shock tower" look that is often seen on Mustangs and Chevy II's. I have a coolant over flow and wiper bottle ( yes, this car will have wipers too), as well as an ignition coil and MSD box which are coming from Pro-Tech.

Doc, thanks for the info.

Doc, can you give me a little more info on the templates your using? I am an avid airbrusher and I am looking to broaden my horizons a bit. Thanks in advance

Love that body style.

I have been dreading doing this modification because it required cutting a large circle in the body. This kit does not provide a gas door of any kind, so you are left to your devices with this one. I recently built a 1/25th Ford Styleline kit into a Mass State cruiser. It came with custom tail light bezels, that I thought closely resembled the outer ring of a Charger gas door. The scale difference looked right, so that combined with a 1/25th tachometer housing from the parts box and a 1/43rd '40 Ford hub cap and I was off. First, I dremeled out the tach housing so the hubcap/gas door would fit in it flush. The tach housing was used to raise the gas door slightly above the outer ring, similar to the real thing. After gluing the three pieces together, I painted the gas door black and added a fuel decal from a Nascar detail sheet. After drilling out the mounting hole, I final sanded it at a bit of a taper, so the door housing would not fall through, but sit slightly above the quarter panel, like on the real car. I don't have the hands to add a hinge or lifting tab to the gas door itself, but the finished product is pretty close to the original and I am very happy with it.

Due to the very warm weather we have had in the northeast lately, I was able to paint and complete the firewall very quickly. I used the supplied brake cylinder, drilled it and attached the rear brake line coming up from the chassis, as well as fab up front brake lines, and a "proportioning" valve for the passenger side. I used quotes for that because it is actually an interesting unidentified leftover piece from a 1/24th kit that looked right, so I used it. The blunt ends will have fittings attached, followed by flexible rubber hoses, terminating at the front brake drums. The routing of the brake lines was dictated by the built, but yet to be installed inner engine bay and radiator support. Thanks for looking.

Nick, I think Charlie at Pro-tech has a couple of resin holley four barrels, in 1/16th coming out very soon. He is a member on this board and has a steadily growing parts list of 1/16th goodies that are available and fourth-coming.

Yep, put it away and try again later. I have an old Revell flip nose '66 Chevelle, that I lowered and pro-streeted and painted sublime green. Same thing, do a few things, put it away. No rhymn or reason, its just one of "those" models.

Nice job. I have the same kit in line for a winter project as a Mass. State Police cruiser. Glad to hear it goes together well.

Well it goes without saying, but feel free to use anything you see here for your own 1/16th generals. I primed the package tray last night and painted the firewall. It will now get the brake booster installed and I will run both solid and rubber front brake lines and complete the engine bay/inner fenders. The body is really all that is left. I found a decent set of wipers and made a pretty good copy of the gas door from a 1/25th ford hub cap. Yeah, you read that right. May be a couple weeks before I have fresh pics.

Thanks for the kind words. I too had one of the original kits 30 years ago and even then was somewhat dissapointed with all the nascar underpinnings. Even at 12 years old, I knew it was wrong, but I didn't possess the skill to correct them. Unfortunately, I do not have shots of the original dash, but what you see is pretty much intact except for being shaved on the bottom. Flat top, flat face, with a woodgrain pattern on the face. I never thought of casting my dash, because it has its flaws and is not exactly accurate compared to the real thing. I am proud of the almost finished product though. Here are the most current pics. The interior is not complete and is only loosely mocked for the picture. Aside from the dash and backseat, the center console and roll bar are also scratchbuilt. I still have to add some detail paintng, CB, shifter, package tray and maybe window cranks if I can fab them up. I will also be adding seat belts/harnesses from Pro-Tech. In my very first post, you will see the inserts for the wheel wells. The process was actually pretty easy. Epoxyed them in place, skimmed the fenders with bondo, inside and out, blended the lips, sand/prime, sand/prime again and VIOLA! Aside from some minor fine tuning, they look symetric from every angle I can see, so I'm pretty happy with them. Thanks for looking.

In an effort to continue to bring you all up to date, here are pics of the scratchbuilt dash and rear seat. I used the kits, 70's style nascar dash as a frame for the new one. In another day or two, I will share pics of the almost complete interior that also has a scratchbuilt roll bar and center console, followed by completed shots of the corrected front fender wheel openings. Thanks for looking.

Well alot has happened since my last post, so I won't mince words here. Added a sway bar by bending a piece of styrene tubing. Added supply and return fuel lines that join up with the fuel pump. Full length exhaust. Pipes are aluminum tubing. Mufflers are oval metal stock. Pipes going over axle are actually solder and tail pipes are also aluminum tubing. Tank straps are brass stock, painted flat black. Any questions, just ask.