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fury3

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Everything posted by fury3

  1. I've purchased his 1966 Dodge Dart 2-Door Sedan (factory stock version) along with the newly released chassis/interior package, at seperate intervals (the chassis-interior package was not available when the body was initlally released). Both packages arrived within a very reasonable 3 week time period. The quality of the resin and casting is excellent. Highly recommended. My only regret is that he doesn't offer more factory stock versions of his offerings. Fury3
  2. It's always nice if you are able to replicate your first car...if it was ever done in small scale. Your's wasn't, but you were lucky enough with what is currently available today to create a beautiful "one of one" build. The paint is very sharp. One minor question though. In the fifth photo, what is that white material on the right cowl to fender area? I'm a Chrysler Corp. (until the the year 2000) fan, but during the time period of your car, their cars were well built and extreamly durable, but General Motors (and Ford/Mercury) were light years ahead of Chryler in styling! Congradulations on a great build. I'm sure this model will be "special" in your collection, as my first 1.1car ("Jo-Han" 1965 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible) is to me. Fury3
  3. Always look forward to viewing your builds Steve, and just like the others...this one is impressive. (and one which just like the 1.1 vehicle, isn't seen too often.) Combining "Modelhaus" quality and your skills equals a great "WOW" factor every time! Thanks for posting and sharing this with us. Fury3
  4. Really impressive build of this old classic kit. Your engine compartment detail and wiring is exceptional! I am old enough to remember these cars..you didn't want to mess with the "Pursuit" version of these cars. I maintained some of the Ohio Highway Patrol Fury and Gran Fury's of the 70's at the dealership. They were fun to work on, and even more fun to "test drive"! Fury3
  5. Yes, the "Auto Color Library" is one of, if not the best source of factory color information....and it's at no charge. However, beware of a few minor things that I became aware of due to my "nip-picking" to make sure I was choosing the absolute correct colors for the subject I was researching/building. First, they list colors in most cases by manufacturer Division prior to aprox. 1978. After that it seems to go toward Corporate or Company....with footnotes denoting divisional applications. Prior to 1978 the list is very generalized. Example: 1968 Plymouth. Two light blue metallics are listed and were available: factory code DD1 "Pale Blue Metallic, and then code UU1 "Frost Blue Metallic". One might ask, "Why would Plymouth offer two light blue metallics?" Because they are two different hues, and code DD1, "Pale Blue Metallic" was available/exclusive to the Plymouth Fury models (and other Corporate C-Bodies..Polara/Monaco, Chrysler, and Imperial) and it was less red, or not as bright as code UU1. Code UU1 "Frost Blue Metallic was exclusive to the Valiant, Barracuda, Belvedere/Satellite/Road Runner/GTX models. There are other colors that had these restrictions as well, and in other years. The library does not break this down. On a positive note, they seem to do a good job of noting mid year or "Spring" introduction colors, such as code Q5 "Seafoam Turquoise Metallic"...it was a regular production color for 1969...only available on A and B Body vehicles, but was introduced in the Spring of 1968 in the Chrysler Division on the "Sales Success Special" C-Body Chrysler Newport and 300 series only. It was not offered in 1969 in the Chrysler Division or any other C-Body vehicles. Where does one find this type of detailed information? From the factory published color and trim selector books, sales brochures, and folks with the actual experience/knowledge of the vehicles in question. Some cars are tricky to locate....Ford Thunderbird colors are listed mostly under the Lincoln Division's listings, as they shared many of those exclusive colors. I'm still tring to locate where some cars are listed, as some early Corvette colors seem to be omitted..they may be there, but I'm still looking, LOL. Since I use "Model Car World" (MCW) paints consistantly on all of my factory stock builds (yes, I know...boring) I use MCW's "Automotive Paint Reference Guide" book WITH the "Auto Color Library" website, along with my Chrysler Corp. factory publications. Even with all of this, I still can at times come up with unanswered questions...especially when straying from Chrysler vehicles. Hope this helps a bit! Fury3
  6. Thank you Bob for the information to the other forum. The photos were interesting. I knew this kit was going to be a modification of the "Landy" kit and the 1969 kits. Revell seems to be on the right track though....giving us a factory stock 440 Magnum AND a non stock 426 Hemi (incorrect air cleaner and aftermarket headers). They have filled in the 1969 body side marker reflectors, and left the body smooth. The "porthole" side marker lamps will be left to the decal sheet...or your own "engineering talents". I like the wide choice of wheels though! Looks like the steel wheels are a new tooling...finally a correct set of Chrysler steel wheels and 1967-1968 specific hub caps from Revell (instead of the incorrect steel set in the 1/24th scale 1970 Road Runner..they have the late 70's design cooling holes). These steel wheels and hub caps would look great on Revell's 68- Dart, 67 Belvedere GTX, Coronet R/T, AMT/Ertl/RC2's 1968 Road Runner. Of course, no kit is perfect and I'm sure it will find many modelers which will find fault (s) with it. I however, think it's great and a big step in the right direction! Fury3
  7. The orange vehicle (1969) above does not have the correct wheels for a 1969. The 1967-68 Chrome Plated "Road Wheel" option featured a completely plated outer rim...right to the edge of the rim, and did not use a trim ring, as installed on the vehicle in the photo. In 1969 and up, the wheel was NOT plated in the outer rim area (from what I was told by friends around that time at Chrysler, it was done for cost considerations.) but instead painted. A smooth brushed finish trim ring was provided. A note on the 1968-1969 Chrysler corporate side marker "illumination" devices. Notice, I did not call them side marker lamps? For the 1969 model year, all corporate vehicles utilized a reflector lense, with no lamp or electrical provisions what-so-ever. The only way they were illuminated was when a bright light was reflected off of them from another source. Additionally, in 1969, all models (excepting the Imperial Division) used a body colored painted bezel around the reflector....it was NOT plated. I've seen these mistakenly foiled or painted silver on many 1969 Chrysler Corp. model car builds. There were two 1968 styles of side marker lamps...yes these were actually lamps. All Dodge and Plymouth Division vehicles used the round "porthole" style lamps, while the Chrysler Division and Imperial Division used a square shaped lamp. (One exception, was the 1968 Chrysler 300 series...it used it's own specific round rear quarter lamp with a red/white/blue paint filled chrome bezel.) In the 1970 model year, all corporate side marker devices were returned to lamps. This information is taken from the 1968 and 1969 Chrysler Passenger Car Parts Catalogs, and factory sales brochures. Hope this clears things up a bit. Fury3
  8. While browsing the internet hobby retailers, I noticed that "Tower Hobbies" (owned by "Hobbico", who owns Revell) has listed their long awaited 2 in 1 1968 Dodge Charger R/T plastic kit (1/25th scale) as "in stock", from Stevens International. I do not have the kit yet to enlighten everyone with a review. Since I'm unable to post photos, I'll leave that honor to another "enlightened" member. Please, don't beat me up for posting this information as that is what happened last fall when I stupidly announced the release of the current Revell 1970 Plymouth AAR 'cuda kit. I'm only the messenger, and trying to assist other members and friends. Fury3
  9. There is no such thing as a "duh" question....only "duh" answers. The one's I used in the dealership in the 70's were, Oxygen: "Pea Green". Acetylene: "Semi Gloss Black". Don't know if that has changed..the 70's were a long time ago. Fury3
  10. Thank you for the heads up, Harry. It is now corrected and functioning. Some of the builds posted are over 30 years old so please, be kind. Fury3
  11. With the reply that the Mark's (the owner of Best Resin) wife had e-mailed that Mark had passed away in late December, it is common sense to all members here to NOT place any orders on the "Best Resin" website. (Why has she, or someone not contacted the many others that have had their money processed, or answered any of the many current and old inquiries?) It has been over 30 days since his reported "passing" and yet the site remains fully operational and is still accepting orders, and even more importantly, processing funds! Funds that so far will not be refunded or be processed in exchange for the items ordered. (If my almost 2 year experience holds any merit.) The reason I'm posting this is, fellow hobbiests on other forums (and off of the forums) have continued to place orders from this website, with the same results. This is outright deception and theft. I do understand a reasonable time of grieving for the deceased, and time to "get things in order"but the site should be deactivated by now. I would ask that all members please spread the word about this company and it's operational website to other hobbiests that may have not been informed of this unfortunate situation. Yes, I am bitter, and have no use for theft or the people involved that practice it. Now that 30 days have passed, and they are accepting orders, processing funds, and still not replying to e-mails and inquiries, that is exactly what it is! Fury3
  12. Thought I'd add a friendly thought. "Model Car World" (MCW) offers a new (last year) resin tooling of the 1965 Plymouth Belvedere Satellite Hardtop (I assisted with the technical aspect of the tooling) and a 1965 Belvedere I 2-Door Sedan. Both of these kits can be built factory stock, or in race versions. He offers resin kits of the 1965 and 1966 Plymouth Barracuda's, based on the original AMT annuals, and they have NOT been modified. He also offers race versions of these, as well. Additionally, he offers many 1962-1965 Dodge & Plymouth B-Bodies which were never produced in kit form before. Example: 1962-1964 Plymouth Savoy 2-Door Sedans, 1962 Dodge Dart, 1963 Dodge 330 2-Door Sedans, and so on. I've built some of these kits for display and advertising on his website, and can recommend them highly....especially when you consider the price, high quality, and prompt customer service. I do not work for him either....just a very satisfied client. Fury3
  13. This has got to be the most frequently asked question on any of the various model car forums. If it ever actually accomplishes anything is up to many debates....many become rather "heated" on the other forum. So, I suppose I'll add my almost worthless two cents worth. My late mother used to have a saying. "Spit in one hand and wish in the other. Watch to see which gets filled the quickest!" Here goes: 1976-1980 Plymouth Volare' or Dodge Aspen...Coupe OR Wagon 1970-1971 Plymouth Sport Fury GT or 1970 S-23 Hardtop 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst Hardtop 1969 Dodge Polara 500 Hardtop or Convertible 1966 Dodge Coronet 500 or Plymouth Belvedere Satellite Ht. or Convertible An accurate 1970 Plymouth Barracuda, Gran Coupe, 'cuda, or AAR 1962-1965 Ford Fairlane 500 Sports Coupe's 1967-1976 Plymouth Valiant 4-Door Sedan (Signet series from 1967-1969) (The car in the Movie "Dual" would be nice....a 1971 with the interior and exterior decor groups.) 1967 Ford's... Fairlane 500/XL and Galaxie 500/XL 1968-1969 Chevrolet Impala's Any Rambler or AMC products Fury3
  14. That's true, but I still have two 1.1 scale "toys" in the garage.... one in a "capsule", the other under a cover. They still require periodic maintenance and driving, insurance, and so on. Difference is, now I must hire someone to do the maintenance. I'm just thankful they were both "finished" many years ago. I could never afford to do it today. Thank heavens for model cars, this forum, the magazine, and great friends in this hobby!
  15. I was seven, and the year was 1963. My parents had just bought my mom's first new car, a 1963 Ford Fairlane 500 in "Chestnut Metallic", with the 260 "Challenger V8", and the new for 1963 3-Speed all-syncro manual transmission. My father bought the "AMT" annual kit of the car, bought some touch up paint for it (maintenance) AND the kit. He was smart enough to know the lacquer would damage the plastic model, and did primer it, while teaching me how to spray paint. That build is still with me and can be seen in my photo bucket. The exterior and interior paint is original, but I've added BMF to it, and replaced much of the worn chrome. That 1.1 Fairlane was ONE of the best cars they ever owned, except for it's typical early Fairlane manual steering abilities. It always wanted to go anywhere with ease...as long as it was in a straight line! The second build was the "AMT Craftsman" 1964 Valiant in "Dark Blue Metallic", which was my father's new car that year. It is also in the photo bucket, and has been rebuilt in the same fashion as the Fairlane. That 1.1 Valiant was finally junked in 1986 by my aunt, with over 315,000 miles. The original 170 Slant six and drivetrain still ran well, but the floor had rotted completely through in a few areas. It cost my father $1,934.00 new in 1964! I think they both got their money out of it! Fury3
  16. That actually looks quite artistic! I was a Certified "Master Tech" (Chrysler), Service Manager/Director (for a Chrysler and then an Oldsmobile/Cadillac dealership), then a Technical Service Training Instructor for Chrysler Corp. (Centerline, Michigan). Sadly, my career was cut short in 2003 when I became perm. disabled. At this point I stopped dealing with the 1.1 automotive world as a career and hobby (still have a few 1.1 show "toys")...and went back to the plastic model car world that I had left in 1974. This hobby has improved in many different ways since then. Plus, it's a lot more affordable. The 1.1 car hobby has become a (unfortunately) "rich man's" guilty pleasure. Fury3
  17. Since I'm disabled, my only income is SSDI, which is very minimal. But when you can purchase ANY kit for only $3.50, buy them all! The way I see it, even if the kit is not one in which you would build....the parts alone are worth the frugal cost! In my area of the country, most new kit releases were retailing for around the $2.00 figure in the mid to late 60's, being alive at that time and purchasing them. I have the original box in which one of my Jo-Han 1965 Plymouth Sport Fury's came in (my first 1.1 car) and it is coded on the box ends at the bottom (kit #C-1565). The retail cost from Jo-Han was $1.49! Just my two cents worth. Fury3
  18. I see that your 1971 Valiant Scamp Ht. is now listed on your website, and ready to be ordered. Note: This was the only year in which the Scamp carried a "Valiant" nameplate on the front fender above the "Scamp" identification....just like the 1970 Duster was the only year in which the same "Valiant" nameplate was used on the front fender, above the "Duster" identification. I previewed your website for the first time, and will be ordering the 1967 Plymouth Barracuda Sports Fastback kit as well. Now, if only someone would do a 1968.....(AFX and it's many other names and inconsistant service being dismissed) Fury3
  19. This will be a welcome addition to the hobby, and very overdue. I, (and a few friends) will want some of these as soon as they become available. I have always found the true Dart /Valiant "A-Body" 2-Door Hardtop body style preferable to the Duster/Demon/Dart Sport design anyway. They were far more practical as far as interior dimensions and rear visability. (just my personal opinion) It's funny that the "Scamp" name existed on the Valiant from 1971-1976, and was then applied to a small short lived pick-up based on the "L-Body", and quietly put to rest. We are eagerly waiting! Fury3
  20. I wouldn't hit the panic button yet...and that was not the intent of my reply. I simply wanted to point out his reaction to the topic at the "other forum". I have not heard of orders not being filled...just very slow in BEING filled, and no communication with the clients of the unexpected delays. I had hoped that since my e-mail exchange with him and his very prompt reaction and speed to the topic/reply, that communications had improved since. I understand and was aware of the hobby shop endevor (nice website!), but that still should not interfere with a simple and courteous note to his clients/customers to keep them abreast of progress and or delays. Fury3
  21. This is interesting. A little over a month ago, I posted a reply to a topic on the "other forum" recommending a new member purchase a kit or component (forget what it actually was) from ANOTHER caster that carried what he wanted....instead of "Perry's. Randy Frost (Perry Resin operator/owner, I believe) sent me a personal e-mail at once being rather upset about my reply, and as to why I would post a statement about him like that. (FYI The topic and reply at question was not a current post either (?).) I simply replied that I had read many other topics and replies as of late about long delays concerning getting orders filled....that were written and composed by HIS clients. I also commented that I had actually never been a client of his because of this, and also because much of his product did not interest me. He quicky replied again, and did seem to aknowledge my reasoning, and the delayed/unfilled orders situation. That's where it was left. Is he working to rectify the situation? Unknown. What I find interesting is that he did contact "ME" at once about my reply, but yet seems to have problems with communicating with his clients as quickly. We all must remember however, that many of these caster do this as a "side" or second job. Actually, I only know of two that are full time ("Modelhaus" and "Model Car World" (MCW)...there may be more. Still, there is no excuse for someone offering a service and accepting orders that can not communicate with their clients. Even if the order is/was delayed, most of us could accept that IF we were notified in a regular and timely manner. Just my thoughts or two cents worth, LOL! Fury3
  22. Why not write to Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company in Akron, Ohio and find out from "the horse's mouth", so to speak? Another example... In the "Flomax" medication ads that feature the old men in a blue 67 Mustang Convertible (that don't have to go "potty" anymore), why are the "FORD" letters missing from the hood and the running horse missing from the grille corral? There are many other such examples in this wonderful new enviroment we now live in. Just a simple thought...not trying to be a smart #$@. Fury3
  23. This last summer I was looking for some household materials in a cabinet in my basement. I found a built, but disassembled Jo-Han 1969 Plymouth Belvedere GTX Hardtop, which I had built in 1969. (This is an extreamly uncommon (I hate the term "rare", as it's used for every item on E-Bay) kit to find. I simply stripped it with "Zep Concete Cleaner", purchased some new parts from "Modelhaus", and ordered the correct paint for it from "MCW". This kit's body is so much cleaner/crisper, and correct (especially the rear wheel openings!) then the inaccurate "AMT/Ertl/RC2" 90's offering! I guess this find is one of the advantages of buying the house that I grew up in. Now, if I could just find a box of old Jo-Han kits, whew! Fury3
  24. In my experience, I think a lot of it has to do with government mandated and or EPA regulated changes in the materials used in the paint. I actually have some "Pactra" enamels, and old glass bottle "Testors" enamels that are left over from my early modeling days..in which I left in 1976! They are today as good as the day I bought them over 30 years ago...without thinning! However, I have purchased certian current "Testors Model Masters" enamel colors which tend to dry out in 6 months. The colors I experience this the most frequent are the "Stoplamp Red", Turn Signal Amber, and various engine colors. I have done the thinner excercises, experimented with the cap sealing abilities and so on. Yet, I have over four hundred (yes, 400!) 2.0 oz. jars of "MCW" (Model Car World) lacquer (exterior gloss and semi-gloss interior air brush paint), some of which was purchased in 2004....and it's still perfect. Some of this "MCW" paint has been opened and partially used and resealed in the original bottle/cap. As an experiment, I did purchase a jar of the aformentioned "Testors Model Masters" Stoplamp Red, and poured it into a clean "MCW" 2.0 oz. jar. It has been one year since I did that, and the paint seems to be storing better in the "MCW" jars. Dave Dodge (MCW owner/operator) had problems about 15 years ago with his paint prematurely drying out for his clients. This was written up in the "SAE Magazine" in the early 90's, to which he promptly reacted. Dave found another supplier for his jars/lids, and the problem was solved. So, is it a container sealing/storage situation, or mandated chemical changes in the paint? Time will tell, "pun" intended! Fury3
  25. Yes, November 1, 2007. Mark re-opened the website for business after that. Even after waiting for close to two years for my order, I did send an e-mail with my condolences. Mark sent those latest e-mails promising to fill my order and refund my money after that. In all due modesty, I do feel I have been extreamly patient and understanding with this man...too much so. Especially since he did process my check immediately after receiving it in March of 2006. Fury3
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