fractalign

The other body half has more or less been over looked until now. With the driver's side half up to speed, I turned my attention to this side. The first task was to make sure the frame sat flush with the strip. The next task was to bevel down the A pillar in preparation for the quarter round channel. You will notice the gap between the top of the door and the bottom of the frame

After gluing the first one in I checked to make sure the frame would sit flush with it. I then glued the other strip into place on the other side.

Hey Guys. Continuing on from last night, I started work on the window surrounds around the door. The first step was to cut a couple of 1mm by 1mm strips. These are for the A pillars. As well as holding the door frame in place they will also hold the windscreen in place. The windscreen will be going in from the front just like a 1:1 car.

Hey Jesse. Not sure if I can help you with a resin one but I just read about a guy who put one together by combining a 66 Fairlane Ranchero with a 68 Grand Torino fastback. Hope that helps !

This is a unique and impressive build !

One last image. Here is one is one as a street machine/ drag car. Speaking of which, I will be going to the Street Machine Nationals on the weekend so I can expect to see a lot of cool ones like this one. This one is actually an LC Torana which is the one that preceded the LJ. The LC had a steel grill and different twilight and headlight surrounds.

The final task for the night was to add the top to the passenger side fender. Next task will be to continue working on the window surrounds and put in the gutter rail on the driver's side.

On the inside I have attached the b pillar. This makes up the first part of the surround that will allow the door frame to sit flush inside the body, I will also be doing the same for the window frame. The surround that runs from the A pillar will also house the windscreen. To make up this surround I will be cutting down piece of 2mm sheet styrene to 1mm by 1mm and then cutting it in two for each A pillar.

Since the driver's side body half is the one that leads to how the other side will look, I turned my attention to reshaping the roof and A pillar. The roof at the front was sanded down to get it looking lower. The A pillar was bevelled. I will be adding the gutter rail from this point. The material i will be using for this will be the same as material I have been using to make up in side of the window frames.

Hey Guys. After finishing the drivers side window frames, I decided to get the passenger side ones up to speed. The first thing I did was line up the quarter window frame, making sure it was the same angle as the driver's side one before gluing it into place. The next thing was to glue the door frame and the window frame together like the drivers side unit. I still need to add the inner frame to the the passenger side window frame but this will be a lot easer with the two parts glued together.

The final task for the night was to fit the unit inside the body to see what gaps needed filling. I then took it out and filled in the areas before putting it back in. I made sure to wet it so that the putty did not stick to it. The next task will be to work on this area in preparation for the gutter rails and once that is done to move onto the other side and finish off the other window and door frames.

With the window frame together, I glued it to the door frame.

Hey Guys. I finally got the window frame together tonight. I had to sand down the other side to make sure the inside strip would sit flush with it.

The final image shows the cab on the other side. The reason this side panel is not flush is because I have not trimmed the rear edge or curved it. Once I do this I will be able to assemble the sides top the rear panel. The next task will be to do this and move onto the front of the panel.

With that done I proceeded to remove the section but i did not discard it because the top of the panel would need to replicate the bottom edge of the cab. I attached the section to the top of the panel.

The next task was to get it to line up and sit flush with the top of the running boards. To do this a rectangular section need to be removed so I got the panel and held it up to the bottom edge of the spare cab and traced around the bottom edge of the spare cab onto the new panel.

With the sides done, I turned my attention to the rear. The most obvious solution to the rear panel would have been to cut up the spare cab but since the spare one is the one I will be using in place of this one that was not an option. I had an old resin cab lying around that was gathering dust so I sliced through the rear and readied it for its new home. Checking the fit and it was pretty close.

The result is a little rough but I am not too worried as I will probably be lowering the cab slightly so the bottom edge will be free of any gaps when I do.

With cab sitting properly the cross beams were glued together to secure the cab and i was able to focus on the next task. The other purpose of the balsa wood frame is a buck for the lower part of the cab. The sides of the balsa wood pillars were narrowed to allow the template to sit flush with the bottom of the cab, it was then traced ready for cutting. The upper part was easy but the lower edge was a real challenge.

The rest of the frame was built inside the cab with two more lengths of balsa wood attached vertically to the bottom of the cab at the rear door edges.These are the pillars and the bottoms were tapered to match the flow of the fenders. Between these pillars another cross beam was attached. The purpose of the this cross beam was to sit in front of the beam attached to the fender assembly.

The first task was to build a balsa wood frame to keep the cab square. As you can see the balsa wood cross beam is in line with the front edge of the running board. This is also where the rear edge of the door will be.

Hey Guys. As Chuck so rightly pointed out these COE's were conversions by a company called Dearborn. I also found another image to use for my build. The truck in the image was shortened to 112 inches. This profile view enabled me gain the much need proportions for my build. The rear of the door appears to line up with the front edge of the running board. Based on that observation I was able to work out where mine would need to moved.

Thanks for the feedback guys. The plastic tubing I am using is perfect for the grill as its just the right size. Modelhaus does some fine wheels but unfortunately the truck wheels are actually slightly different to the ones I am using. But any advice and feedback is more than welcome. Cheers.

The problem with that was that the frames were still too thick so I set about thinning them down. Once I was happy I put the strips inside. You will notice that even with the strips sitting inside the frames they are the same thickness as the door frames. Another thing I did was bevel the edges on the outer frame to give the face a softer look. The next task will be to make sure the inner strips are sitting evenly inside the frames before i glue them in. I will only get one chance with these strips to get it right. Once they are attached I will begin work on the window surroundings and drip rails.

Hey guys. Just a quick update. I was almost not going to post anything because of how long its taking with the frames but I figured I would show why its taking so long. I found the strips I needed after cleaning the work area this morning so I figured I would quickly be able to attach them.