fractalign

The wider versions will also be made to suit the pro street kits such as the Revell 1941 willys.

Here is another mockup of the 32 Roadster this time fully fendered. Notice how the tyres fill the rear fenders like the coupe in the background.

Here is a mockup of what I want to do.

Another image showing a 32 highboy with a slightly different style of tyres but still with the the deep dish ET 111's.

The wheels are in the concept stage at the moment. The image below of the Pete Eastwood Tudor shows the other type of wheel I want to produce. The tyres on the Eastwood Tudor are Firestone Dirt Trackers although mine will be slightly different to these. The wheels in the bottom images show the Dirt tracker/ pro street style on the right and the standard width version on the left. I am also looking at including separate white walls as a build option.

Hey Guys. This is something I have been wanting to do for a while because I do not believe there are enough real hot rod wheel tyre combinations out there as in Proper magnesium style Big, n Littles, not low profile large diameter billet combinations or regular street style wheel but real hot rod wheels. I will be producing a range of these wheels and tyres in 1:25 scale. These will be old school, high profile, wide tread, smooth wall, deep dish style. The Wheels will be modelled off 16 inch ET 111's, there will be two widths, a standard and extra width to suit pro street builds. The image shows what I am aiming for with these wheels. For anyone unfamiliar with the Hot Rod in the back drop it was built by a guy called Bobby Alloway. Anyone who has not heard of Bobby should look him up because he builds some awesome rides, especially 33 and 34 Fords. While the wheels will be primarily designed for pre 49 Fords, Chevs and Willys they should look equally cool on fifties and later classics and muscle cars. Once I have created them I will be trying them out on different kits to see how they sit in relation to ride height and over all stance.

I really like this, a very original and very interesting take on urban decay !

Aaaaah ! the resin pirates strike again ! We have a major truck resin producer over here that was the victim of a local resin pirate. This resin pirate was so brazen as to actually have his own website and export over seas. He in no longer in business luckily, but he was ripping off truck and automotive producers. One guy was so upset that he stop casting for anyone other than himself and close friends. I studied this resin pirates web site and found only two items that were his own creations. The only way to get back at these guys is to find stuff that they have created them selves and threaten too recast it if they don't stop casting your stuff. If that does not work legal action might be your only option.

In my previous post I was talking about the reducing the gap between the chassis and the floor on the other set of fenders by creating channels for the chassis to lock into the floor pan. The problem with doing this is that ride height is sacrificed at the same time the gap is eliminated. I have come up with a solution where by ride height is retained and the gap is eliminated. All will be revealed in the next post.

I am undecided as to which front end I want to run under this truck. While the one from the 37 pickup looks the part it is a little narrow. The other axle is for the BB trucks. I was thinking of casting this one and adapting the axle to the 37 leaf spring wishbone assembly until realised that the leaf spring on the 37 is actually wider than the BB leaf spring. What I might do is widen the 37 axel at either end to bring it into line with the BB axle.

To get the ride height, I will need to make up some inner fender panels. These will act as spacers as well as flanges to lock the fenders onto the front of the chassis. These inner fender panel will most likely be attached to the existing fenders rather than be separate units.

Another thing I did was peg up the fenders and chassis with the front end to see how the wheel fits into the front fender bay. Its not to bad and i should ad that the front end sitting under it in these shots is actually the pickup front end.

Checking the fit go the engine. This block is from the the Lindberg 34 Pickup because this chassis was originally only going to be used for the 32 and 34 BB trucks that I am working on. When I googled some images of the 35/36 Ford trucks I realised there was very little difference between them and their earlier BB counterparts, so that was when I decided that it would be easier top adapt the 35 body to this chassis rather than create a new chassis. I was originally going to finish this chassis first then cast one, cut off the front and graft the front of the pickup chassis onto it. When I saw the google image I realised that the front half of the pickup and truck chassis were completely different. The truck chassis is straighter and deeper. The main difference between the 34 Lindberg engine block and the Monogram 36 engine block is in the engine mounts brackets found on the blocks so I will need to work out a way of adapting the two engine types to the one set of engine mounts.

Hey Guys. I have taken some time out from the cab to focus on the chassis. Because the two are interconnected getting the chassis up to date will make the placement of the fenders a whole lot easier. I put several layers of undercoat on it this morning. And having done that I re-punched the holes in the front crossmember for the axle u bolts to go through because they had filled with paint. The u bolts them selves were made from the binders of old notepads. These old not pads are a good source of materials because the plastic covers themselves are perfect for making up door trims etc, due to their grainy surface. The wire once un wound can be bent into shape four just about any thing. I will using the same binding four my engine wiring for future projects. The other thing I did was cut back the surrounding at the rear of the front crossmember. On these larger truck chassis, the engine mounts and crossmember are combined.

Hey Guys. Thank you for all the positive comments and sorry there are no photos today. I did get most of the sections for the floor cut but I have not put them together yet. I will need to to measurement for the transmission tunnel before I can start assembling the floor. That will be tomorrows main task.

Welcome Thomas !

Here is how it looks in relation to the body. With the sides done, the next task will be to create the floor itself, starting with the flat panels where the seat rails attach.

With that angle locked in, I was able to double check the angle on the sides of the floor before gluing them in.

This side is the actual side that I used to measure the angles, you will notice the double headed arrow, this was drawn at the the exact angle.

To work out the contour of the side panels that flow down from the doors, I took a much simpler approach in creating this tool. This measures the angle. The numbers are at 5mm intervals so when the tool is placed flat up against the angle the needle points to the number from where the upper part of the tool is leaning. This side is for the more gentle angles.

Before I started work on the floor I created a contour gauge out of off cut strips of pine. I was almost not going to use it because it was so flimsy. But once I reinforced it I got to work using it to create this. Once the contour was worked out the gauge was carefully removed and the outline traced. In light pen at first and when I was happy with the line, in full black texta. The upper line is the transmission tunnel the bottom line is the floor pan its self at its deepest part and the middle line, the lighter one is the where the door opening is. The square at the left is the crossmember. In the middle of the template you will notice a small piece of white styrene, this is scaled down version of the floor, namely the sides that taper down into this area.

With the template cut, two sheets of 2 mm were stuck together and cut to the same shape as the template. These were also sanded down to make them at least half a millimetre thinner. The grey area is marked out for removal.

Hey Guys. I have been busy putting the floor pan together and the first task was to make a cardboard template. While I thought there was no flat surface on the floor between the crossmember and the fire wall, it turns out I was wrong. When I rechecked the floor I found this area was flat so I traced around it to make this template. Here is the actual area in the floor. You will notice a piece of timber in the top right hand corner. That piece of timber is pointing at the area. If you look carefully you will see four holes. These holes are for the seat rails which is why this area is flat.

Hey Christian. Firstly let me say its good to see you on board the forum, second I followed your Gemini build on the Australian forum with very keenly. I am always interested in scratch building projects, especially automotive ones. I should add that my Torana is the first car I ever bought and at the time I was tossing up between a Gemini coupe and a Torana coupe, so I will be looking forward to you getting back into your build. Cheers.

That is a real shame ! I have seen your Fairmont and having mastered and cast many bodies my self I know how frustrating it must feel to have some resin pirate come along and rip you off. Anyone who unknowingly buys one of these copies may be unaware that the version they are buying will be smaller than your own due to shrinkage. I am planning on releasing some of my own towards the end of the year and I am worried someone will do the same to me. Some of mine have literally years and hundreds of hours in them. We had a guy over here that was doing the same thing and thankfully he has gone out of business now. Hopefully all the guys on the forum will let everyone else know about this pirate.