fractalign

Hey guys. I spent the afternoon filling in the gaps on the lower cab section, first using scrap strips of plastic which were glued in place and then sanded down. With that done I layer down a thick layer of auto putty front and back.

Yeah, and this one is a little easier than the other one !

The final image gives a better idea of the layout. The wheel siting in the roof is what i want to run on the rear. They are Whitewall slicks. The Torque Thrusts are from the Revell 32 kit. You will notice there is no firewall or running boards, these are two more things I will need to scratch build along with a centre for the top. I have something very special in mind for the top and the running boards that will be keeping in theme with the nostalgia look that I am going for with this build. This is where things stand at the moment. My next task will be to make the 32 windscreen frame sit flush inside the cab.

To get the windscreen to fit inside the cab has meant a lot of machining has been needed.

One of the biggest challenges was making the grill. The upper part was easy enough but getting the curve at the bottom was tricky. The grill bars are actually resin running boards that were dipped in boiling water to get the curve and then cut to shape. There is still some work to do to finish it off but the hardest part is behind me.

Hey Guys. This has been an on again off again project for the last year or so, lately more on than off. I originally put this up on the forum last year but decided to not continue with the thread. There were a number of reasons for stopping and one was that I was not happy with how it looked and I was more focussed on other projects. Over the last couple of months I have been putting more time into it where I can. What makes this build such a challenge is the amount of scratch building involved. As well as the chassis and hood and grill insert, the floor has been scratch built. Other parts that will be scratch built include the dash and gauges. Parts from four different kits have gone into this project so far. The rear fenders, grill shell and windscreen frame are from the Revell 32 Ford. The cab itself is made up from three different kits, the lower part of the doors came from the AMT 34 five window coupe, the upper half is made up from the MPC switchers 32 tudor and the rear cab is from a resin 34 cab. The front fenders are from the same MPC 32 switchers kit. The pick up bed and floor are from the Revell Monogram 37 Ford Pickup. All of these parts have been extensively modified to fit. When it comes to engines there is really only one choice of power plant in a Mopar and its a certainly not a small block Chev, its got to be a Hemi. I have quite few to choose from but I have opted for the Red Ram from the AMT 29 Model A Roadster for the simple fact that it the nicest of all the Hemi designs in my opinion. I won't be running the ugly supercharger, opting instead for an old school Hillborn injection. The front end will be the dropped I beam in the image and the rear end will be a nine inch with a Halibrand style quick change rear. The housing for the diff is scratch built as well.The I beam came out of the Revell 40 Ford coupe with the spring coming from the Lindberg 34 Pickup. You might just be able to see the chassis in the background, that has been totally scratch built as well, its still to be finished.

The final image shows how the frame sits inside the body. A lot of cleaning up to do but the frame does sit flush inside body. Next task will be to continue to work on this side until its neat enough to add the drip rail and do the same on the other side.

I also added the b pillar.

On the other side I added the putty to reinforce the window surround and tidy up the inside.

Hey Guys. Another update, not much done because i have been pre occupied with a build on the big rigs on the work bench forum. Anyway tonight I turned my attention to the passenger side and the first task was to sand down the quarter round channel for the frame to fit.

The final image shows how I will construct the grill. The grooves in the running board act as perfect spacers. The next task will be to finish off the lower cab section and to start on the grill.

The other thing I will need to do with this section is add a flange for it to lock into the cab, thats once I have cleaned up the inside.

The side view shows how the lower cab section fits, still a bit of filling to do but once that is done I can begin adding detail to it.

And here is the other one. This will be the actual cab that will be transformed. The other one is just a guide but I will keep it together because the grill is glued into place and it will be easier to make the hood from this one. The blue cab will need most of the front from the A pillars forward removed once the hood has been made.

I checked the fit on the other side too and was satisfied enough to put the unit together. As I outlined at the beginning of the build, there are actually two kits I am using.

With the strip added I refitted the rear panel to make sure it was flush.

Hey Guys. Another update and some more work done. The main task was to finish assembling the lower cab section. I added a 1mm strip to the end because there was a gap on this side.

Hey Guys. Thanks for all the positive comments and as far as left or right hand drive builds go, I will be keeping it Left Hand Drive, as we did not have these early C.O.E,s over here. As far as the truck in the image goes I will be a doing a right hand drive build of it further down the track minus the weathering.

Speaking of the petrol tank, that will be a whole other task, I could easily just add the seat and forget it but since I want this build to me as accurate as possible I will be scratch building one and adding it. The other thing I will need to do is change the steering wheel to a four spoker. Before I do any of this i will get to completing the lower part of the cab and grill.

Here is what I will be using to get the interior right. This seat is from the Lindberg 34 Ford Pickup. I will be splitting the base in two. The interior bucket is from the other 37 pick up. I was going to cut this one up to use for the door trims on the other one but I have decided not to. I don't like butchering perfectly good parts if i can avoid it. Once I have removed the bench seat from the other bucket I will still need to find some corners to make up the bottom of the door trims. To do this I may just make a small mould of the top corner of this bucket and cast a pair of corners to add the the first bucket. I am also thinking of keeping the seat half removable to that the petrol tank can be seen.

As far as the interior goes, its a little basic. It ok but not really to my liking. The first thing that will have to go is the bench seat. The Ford trucks of the thirties had the petrol tank below the seat and to make access easer to tank the base of the seat was split into two sections.

Hey Guys. Just a quick update. I have not had much time to work on the truck because I have been caught up with a scratch building project on the automotive workbench forum. Anyway I am really keen to get back into this one so I made a few decisions to kick the project along. One thing I have decided is that I do not want to scratch build a chassis for this one. The image shows the BB chassis sitting under the truck and this will do fine. Since most of this chassis is scratch built it will make sense to finish it off and get a few cast for this project. If you look carefully you will notice the area behind the cab that has been marked for removal. That is the floor that I will use for the conventional truck, I will most likely combine this floor with the one in the interior to make a single unit.

The final task for the night was to finish off the surrounding on the driver's side door frame. With the strip on the A pillar sitting firmly in place, I cut another 1mm by 1mm strip to sit between the A pillar and B pillar. Here is how its looking. The next task will be to to do the same to the other side and then move to the surrounds for the side windows.

Here is how it looks sitting place. Still a little rough, the upper edge needs to come down at least 0.8millimetre or so for the frame to sit on top. This was real tricky to attach so once glued in, I left it to dry.

To fill this gap involved making up the channel and adding it. I started by cutting a 5mm diameter piece of tubing down the centre and cutting that piece down the centre, filing it into shape.