fractalign

The final image shows how underside. The bottom of floor pan will be parallel with the bottom of the rocker panels at its lowest point. Because there are at least three different levels in this floor area, replicating it will be very tricky. The floor pan and the chassis are effectively the same thing so if the top side is not wrong, the bottom side will be wrong as well. The next task will be to continue to work on the floor pan.

With these measurements, I marked out the same for the inside of the body.

Here is a basic sketch of what I need to create to fill in the space. This is what I call a roller coaster floorpan because there in no point where there floor is flat, it rises and falls as the arrows show. The other thing I needed to do was work out where the floor sat inhalation to the body. to do this I took measurements from the top of the centre crossmember to the bottom of the window housing.

Hey guys. I cut out the centres of the floor today.

The area marked in black texta pen will be sanded down forming channels for the chassis rails to slot into. That will lock the two together and make them flush as well. Next task will be to do this and to continue working on the other cab.

The white kit is the conventional one and checking it against the chassis shows that it will need to come down 1mm or so to sit flush. Because I need to retain the floor in this one, I came up with a solution.

One thing I will be doing now that I have worked out how to properly reshape the windscreen is to fix up the one on the white cab, which is very rough.

The windscreen was surprisingly easy. All I did was cut through the centre at the top and make a cut along the width of the frame with the angle grinder. Because the angle grinder cut was at least a millimetre wide, the frame was pushed back into this space, effectively flattening it. I will do the same for the lower part of the frame as well. The strip of balsa wood acted as a frame to hold the newly reshaped frame together. This has now been filled with putty.

Hey Guys. I finally got back on track with the build today after a few days off, focussing on another build. This image shows what I am aiming for with this build. The main changes I have made include to the windscreen area, I am halfway through making it a flat unit like the 35 and 36,s and the wheel arches, they have been enlarged. Another very important change is to the lower cab section, this is now part of the fender units, this will make adding the cab a lot easier because instead of having the upper and lower section there will only be the upper section as the lower section is now integrated into the fenders. By doing this I have also made the fenders more rigid because without a floor they needed a replacement form of structure.

1933/1934 Chev, Mopar, or Buick three window coupe would be perfect !

The final task was to drill markers on all four corners so that the cut will be the same on both sides. That will be the next task.

Because of the recesses in the floor on either side of the transmission tunnel, these areas are marked for removal.

Here are the two joined together.

Here is how it looked after cutting. The area behind the crossmember has been left untouched because that is providing the extra strength and I will not tackle this part until I work out what I can use for the rest of the transmission tunnel.

With that done I marked out the area fro removal.

After tracing around the transmission tunnel I attached the crossmember.

Here is what I started with. The transmission tunnel was the end of a funnel that was sliced lengthways.

Hey Guys. I got started on the floor pan today. Yet another challenging part of the build, come to think of it there seem to be no shortage of challenging parts in this build. There were two options for doing this, the first would be find a floor from another kit and modify it to look this one or start a fresh from scratch. Since I don't have any other kits from this era the latter was my only option. Measurements were taken of the front half of the floor, that is the part of the floor up to and including the cross member. If you look closely you will notice how the floor is not flat but actually dips down in the centre, getting this part right will be the hardest part of doing this floor.

A very interesting topic. I recently brought a kit for 45 dollars and believe it or not that is a normal price over here. Most kit range from 30 to 45 dollars and I baulk at paying it. The thing is though our minimum wage over here is over 16 dollars an hour so 30 to 45 dollars is considered a normal price for models. Its all relative.

Thanks for the positive feedback and advice guys. I did not get anytime to do anything today but I will be back on track with the build tomorrow.

Thanks for the feedback guys as far as having the skill mine are average at best. The trick with any scratch build is good reference material, accurate measurements and a good eye. If you have these you will be surprised at what you can put together. Speaking of putting things together, I did not get anytime to work on the build today but I did go down to the garage to get some more measurements. This time of the floor, this will be one of the most challenging parts of the build, but with the new jig it will be made a bit easier. Hopefully be this time tomorrow night I should be back on track with the build.

The next task will be to finish the jig and start constructing the floor firewall and engine bay. Here is an image of what the floor looks like. I will be getting as many measurements from it as I can over the next few days, along with the engine bay.

To keep the body sides from falling over there will be a number of contour templates added to the outside. These will attach to the underside the same way the internal templates attach to the top with slats to be cut.

I had time to go out and get some more measurements, this time the width of the floor pan from rocker flange to rocker flange. With the measurement I was able to construct a jig. While many jigs are external units often centred around a box, I realised that would not work with my project. An internal jig was constructed so that I would heave ready access to the outer body at all times. Slats were cut into the top. These slats will allow a templates to be added where needed. This one is slotted in where the firewall will sit.

Because the contruction of the bonnet was so quick I had time to get something else underway.